Leaving Rennes behind, I drove south toward Nantes which was took around 1.5 hours on the open motorway. On the edge of the city, I spotted Parc de la Gaudinière, its trees glowing in rich shades of autumnal amber. With the airbnb check-in not until 3PM, it felt like the perfect place to stop for a walk with Roly.
We wandered through the park looping around the lake and through the tree-lined paths, soaking up the stillness before heading into the city. Little did I know, that peaceful walk was the calm before the chaos that was about to unfold.
The Beginning of the Plot Twist: A Bump on the Road
The calm from our park walk didn’t last long. I headed back to the car feeling refreshed and ready to check into the Airbnb. The parking area sits along the roadside, with each car wedged between low stone boulders.
Getting into the space had already been a bit of a puzzle thanks to the sloped road and narrow gaps. Getting out turned out to be trickier. The boulders sit just below mirror height, so you can’t actually see them when reversing. As I eased out slowly to line up with the road, I heard a quiet thunk.
I got out to check and, sure enough, there it was, a small but clear dent in the back of my Mini. Nothing major, but still annoying. The boot sensor even joined in, beeping on and off as I drove, a gentle reminder of the boulder misfortune. For now, it’s purely aesthetic, a minor scar on the Mini and a reminder that travel has its humbling moments.
Plot Twist 2: The Airbnb Curveball
I drove into the city and checked into my Airbnb which was on the first-floor above a tattoo shop. The entrance was a little gloomy, with narrow corridors and steep stairs, but nothing I couldn’t handle.
I unloaded the car, carried everything up, with Roly scrurrying up and down with me. Once unapcked I started to feel that post-travel relief… until my phone pinged. It was the host and I received the dreaded words: “Just to let you know, the Wi-Fi is down.”
Every digital nomad knows that Wi-Fi isn’t just a nice-to-have, it’s the lifeline. Without it, there’s no client work, no emails, no connection. I messaged the host back, confirmed the situation, and we agreed to cancel the booking for a refund.
Which meant doing everything I’d just done in reverse. Back down the dark corridor, loading up the car again, and Roly pacing with me between the apartment and the Mini again.
It was now evening, and I needed another plan.
Plot Twist 3: Booking.com Hotel Overbooking Saga
I found a nearby hotel on Booking.com called Hôtel de la Cité that seemed ideal with good reviews, parking included, and dog-friendly. I booked it straight away, grabbed my bag, and drove over feeling relieved that the day was finally turning around. Or so I thought...
At check-in, the receptionist looked at me, then at her screen, and sighed. “I’m so sorry, we’re fully booked. Booking.com has been overbooking guests all day because of a system error.” Of course, the payment hold had already gone through… but the room? Nowhere to be found.
By this point it was nearing 8PM, and I couldn’t help but laugh, otherwise, I probably would have cried. The day had officially gone full circle: park peace, boulder dent, Airbnb fail, and now a hotel mix-up. Surely, there couldn’t be another plot twist waiting around the corner… right?
Third Time Lucky: Hôtel Billie
At this point, I wasn’t taking any chances. I found another hotel called Hôtel Billie, right in the city centre, and this time, I called directly to confirm:
Dog-friendly?
Rooms available?
Parking nearby?
Working WIFI?
Finally, a yes to everything.
When I arrived, the woman at reception was an absolute gem. She smiled the moment I walked in, helped me bring my luggage inside, and even offered to carry one of the heavier bags up to my room. After the day I’d had, her kindness genuinely felt like medicine.
I parked the car in a nearby car park, and headed back to check in properly. The room was cosy, and exactly what I needed. A sense of peace after hours of chaos.
Of course, there was one final hurdle: the hotel Wi-Fi. It connected instantly on my phone, but my laptop refused to cooperate. Cue a 45-minute tech marathon of DNS resets, DHCP renewals, captive-portal gymnastics before it finally worked.
That night, I sank into the crisp sheets, and exhaled. It had been one of those travel days, the kind that test your patience but leave you quietly proud of how calm you stayed.
Because if there’s one thing this road trip keeps teaching me, it’s that adventure isn’t just in the beautiful moments, it’s also in the messy, mildly ridiculous ones that remind you you’re really out here, doing it. And honestly, the same goes for life.
Friday: A Fresh Lens on Nantes
After a full night’s rest and reset, I woke up ready to see Nantes through a different lens.
Stepping out of Hôtel Billie that morning located on Rue Scribe 26, Bis, the city already felt different. I realised how perfectly placed I was, right in the heart of things, surrounded by independent shops, cafés, and restaurants. Maybe the chaos of changing hotels had actually worked in my favour.
I wandered with Roly through the quiet morning streets, picking up a ham and cheese baguette from Emma Pâtisserie along the way. I ate on the go, weaving through the narrow streets lined with French boutiques, Bonobo, Manfield, Cotelac, and Paul Marius to name a few. At one point, Roly stopped and stared through the window of Hermès, tail wagging, as if he expected me to take him shopping. Sorry, love, we’re not quite at Hermès budget territory.
We wandered into Passage Pommeraye, Nantes’ famous 19th-century shopping arcade. It has beautiful architecture with marble staircases and glass ceilings. Outside, we stopped at Place Royale, one of Nantes’ main squares. In the centre sits a grand fountain surrounded by stone figures, each one representing a local river that flows through the region, including the Loire, Erdre, and Sèvre. The sculptures are so detailed they almost look alive, water spilling gently around them as tourists and locals cross the square. After exploring for a few hours, I headed back to the hotel to work for the afternoon.
By evening, I was ready for good food and went to Le Bistrot Basque de Nantes, a tapas spot that brings a taste of the Basque Country to western France. The atmosphere was warm and buzzy, locals chatting over glasses of wine, plates clinking, the hum of conversation carrying through the terrace.
I ordered three dishes: squid with rice, prawns with garlic, and a creamy pavlova for dessert, paired with a glass of champagne. Everything was rich, full of flavour, and exactly what I needed.
Nantes, I realised over dinner, is a grower. It doesn’t charm you instantly like Rennes or Rouen, it unfolds slowly, through its food, and its little daily details. And by the end of that meal, I knew it was starting to win me over.
Saturday. Pamper & a Little Vinyl Therapy
After 2 weeks on the road, I was overdue for a little self-care. Saturday started with a morning walk through the city to a nail salon called L’Onglerie Nantes, my version of a recharge day. I walked in on a whim and luck was on my side; they had a same-day appointment just a couple of hours later.
With time to spare, Roly and I wandered around the area to explore. Just a few doors down, we found Biche Dogshop, a beautifully curated pet boutique. Naturally, Roly insisted we go in. The owner was so lovely and she told me about Squeek, a rescue dog she was looking after, who was just as sweet as his name. Roly got treats and I got dog mum joy.
A few shops up, a sign caught my eye, Comme à la Radio, a record store stacked with vinyls. As a long-time collector with a vinyl player at my home in London, I couldn’t resist. I spent about 45 minutes digging through the UK garage, deep and tribal house, and drum & bass crates, pure heaven. I left with five new records, future souvenirs to spin when I’m back home (or maybe at an Airbnb with a player, if I'm lucky).
After that, it was time for my appointment at L’Onglerie, and I walked out with fresh gel polish in my favourite pink, a small but satisfying reset. I wasn’t done yet though. Next stop: Comptoir du Soin, a little beauty studio where I booked in for waxing. It felt good to hit pause and take care of myself after weeks of movement.
Dinner that evening was at Chez Thérèse et Denise, a traditional French restaurant where I ordered stewed lamb with fries. Proper comfort food to close out the day.
Sunday in Nantes
I started the day at Les Machines de l’Île, one of Nantes’ most talked-about attractions. It’s home to large mechanical creations inspired by animals and nature, including the city’s famous Grand Éléphant, a 12-metre-tall moving sculpture that sprays water as it walks.
Dogs aren’t allowed on the ride or inside the main gallery, so Roly and I wandered around the outdoor area, checking out the industrial structures nearby. It’s an unusual and creative space.
Afterwards, we walked along the Loire River, following the pedestrian path lined with trees and bridges. The air was crisp, the light soft, and the city had that easy Sunday stillness France does so well. Most shops close on Sundays here, part of a long-standing tradition that treats the day as one for rest, family, and food. Only a handful of cafés and crêperies stay open, and the slower pace feels intentional. It's a pause in the week rather than an inconvenience.
Nantes was hosting a marathon that morning, the second I’ve come across in France after Rennes last week, adding a burst of energy to the quiet Sunday streets.
I ended the afternoon at Le Coin des Crêpes, a cosy spot serving traditional Breton galettes and sweet crêpes. I ordered a savoury crêpe filled with bacon, leek, cream, and melted cheese, paired with a chilled cider, pure comfort on a plate. For dessert, I couldn’t resist an apple and caramel crêpe, warm and buttery with just the right sweetness. Both were a solid 10/10.
Side note: I’m eating so much bread and pastry in France. I’m going to need to find a run soon before the carbs start catching up. A few runs along the coast in La Rochelle should keep things in check.
Monday in Nantes: Rain, Serendipity & Sweet Goodbyes
Monday began at Sugar Blue, a cosy café that quickly became my work base. I ordered a warm croissant with coffee, set up my laptop, and settled in for a quiet morning of work.
Between emails, I struck up a lovely conversation with a mother-and-son duo from Boston. The mum, Cindy, was warm, witty, and wonderfully bohemian. She told me she’d spent years as a nomad and is now retired, having now settled in Tomar, Portugal, a town she spoke about with real fondness. Her bag caught my eye too, and Cindy explained that cork is one of Portugal’s biggest natural exports. I love how travelling gives you these small, unexpected exchanges. She even passed me her contact details, so who knows maybe our paths will cross again when I reach Portugal later in my trip.
It was a rainy Monday in Nantes with the sound of rain tapping against the windows all day. Outside, it came down in sheets, the kind that makes timing your exit an extreme sport. When I finally decided to leave the café, the rain returned in full force, so I dashed for cover and ducked into a nearby pub. I ordered a classic English breakfast tea. I know, very British of me in France, but exactly the warm hug I needed on a damp Monday.
Once the rain eased, I wandered into Outremesure, a boutique I’d been eyeing the day before when it was closed for Sunday rest. Inside, I found a gorgeous tote bag and matching cosmetic pouch printed with a quirky dog motif, an instant yes for me. The tote’s big enough to fit my laptop and travel essentials, and the design feels like a little nod to Roly.
The rest of the day stayed low-key. The kind of rainy day that calls for staying in and catching up on work. In the evening, I packed up the car, ready for tomorrow’s drive.
Tuesday: A Farewell Lunch at Emporietto
On my last day in Nantes, I wanted one final meal to end the city on a high note and Emporietto, a tucked-away Italian restaurant about 20 minutes’ walk from the centre, was just that. Finding it felt a bit like a treasure hunt: you have to slip through a quiet gate and down a narrow cobbled alley before stepping inside its stone-vaulted cellar dining room.
The atmosphere was instantly warm with low lighting and rustic walls. I ordered 2 dishes: a mix of tender pork served with creamy mushroom and another with purée, beautifully balanced and full of flavour.
It was the perfect send-off meal, local, and made with care. As I walked back through the narrow graffiti-lined streets with Roly trotting beside me, I felt ready for the next chapter.
Next stop: La Rochelle.
What I Learned from My Stay in Nantes
Nantes wasn’t the easiest chapter of this road trip. It began with dents, double-bookings, and more rain than planned but it turned into a gentle reminder of what slow travel is really about.
Here’s what I’m taking with me:
Flexibility is everything. Plans will fall apart (sometimes twice in one day), but there’s always a plan B and often, it leads to something better.
Kindness shows up when you least expect it. From the hotel receptionist who helped carry my bags to Cindy in the café sharing stories about Portugal, little moments of connection can completely shift your day.
Aesthetic dents are just that, aesthetic. Whether it’s a car or a travel hiccup, most things look worse than they are.
Cities take time to reveal themselves. Once the chaos settled, Nantes quietly grew on me. It has creativity, character, and charm beneath the surface.
Balance matters. Between croissants, crepes, and coastal plans ahead, I’m learning that road life is equal parts indulgence and intention.
Nantes reminded me that not every stop has to be picture-perfect to be meaningful. Some places earn your love slowly, one small story, one kind stranger, and one unexpected detour at a time.
Rennes, France. Where Canals Meet Creativity
Leaving Rouen behind, I drove south toward Rennes which took around 4 hours. Rennes is a city I knew little about but felt instantly drawn to. Why? Because the moment I arrived, I could sense its creative pulse; the mix of art, energy, and ease that gives it character. I knew I’d be here for a week, and I couldn’t wait to see what lay beneath the surface.
The drive had been long but pulling up outside my Airbnb felt like a small victory. The flat was trendy; open-plan, filled with vinyls, plants, and art with a patio spilling with greenery, outdoor furniture and quirky fixtures. The canal was just around the corner, catching the last of the evening light.
Roly stretched out on the cool floor, tail thumping gently as if to say, we made it. I unpacked a few bits from the car, and watched the light fade through the tall windows. That sweet, still moment between arrival and adventure.
That night, I ordered Indian takeaway from Délice de India, very yummy and exactly what a travel day deserves.
Saturday. Markets, Art & Ink
Saturday morning began at Marché des Lices, Rennes’ famous weekend market lined with stalls overflowing with cheese, bread, flowers, and chatter. I wandered through with a coffee in hand, picking up local cheese and a bottle of red wine, before stopping for lunch at Crêperie au Marché des Lices.
Here, crêpes are made with buckwheat flour, giving them that distinctive Brittany flavour, savoury, and perfect with cider. I ordered one with ham and melted cheese and sat in the patio sun surrounded by locals enjoying their weekend ritual.
After lunch, Roly and I wandered along the Arsenal-Redon Canal, the kind of place where life just happens with cyclists and runners whizzing past, dogs chasing sticks, couples sharing wine on the grass. It reminded me of Hackney Wick back home in London. Creative, lived-in, and full of easy charm.
Later that afternoon, I visited the La Criée Centre d’Art Contemporain, a small but striking exhibition space that captures Rennes’ creative heartbeat. Afterwards, I stopped at La Tête Enfarinée for baguettes and cakes, and picked up jambon and market goods from Marché Central to cook later.
A Turtle & A Twist
As the sun dipped, the day took a spontaneous turn. I walked into Cœur d’Encre, a small tattoo studio filled with plants, vinyl, and warm light, and walked out with a sea turtle on my arm, a symbol of intuition, emotional depth, and the ability to navigate life’s challenges.
And as if fate wanted to add a plot twist, Cédric, the Frenchman I met in Rouen, came to visit me in Rennes. He got a match tattoo, a small flame. Somehow, it felt poetic; two different symbols.
Courtyard Drinks & Unplanned Conversations
That evening, we went to La Piste, an open-air bar with a laid-back courtyard vibe.
We ordered drinks and ended up joining two women from Brittany who invited us to their table. We spent hours chatting, laughing, and swapping stories, one of those spontaneous, unscripted nights that make travel feel effortlessly alive.
Sunday. Seafood & Sunshine at Chez Brume
Lunch at Chez Brume was perfection; a refined bistro with a sunny terrace serving seafood. I had a selection of their tasting dishes, followed by pavlova, and a glass of prosecco.
As we ate, the Rennes Marathon passed by, a blur of runners, and clapping, turning lunch into a front-row seat to local life.
After lunch, we wandered through the Sunday flea market, a maze of vintage books, art, and antiques that spilled into the nearby streets. We ended the day with dinner at La Chope, where I had steak frites, a pafita roll, and an Aperol Spritz to close out the weekend perfectly.
Monday. Canal Loops & Quiet Moments
Monday morning began with a long canal walk. Roly trotted beside me while the city slowly stirred with runners, cyclists, and locals walking to work with coffee in hand.
In the afternoon, I wandered to Marché Central, picking up sausages, steak, and a baguette to cook at home, then spent the rest of the day working from the airbnb.
A working Monday but a deeply content one.
Tuesday. Canal Walks & Roly’s EU Passport
On Tuesday, I drove to Vetovie Fougères vétérinaire in Rennes to get Roly’s EU pet passport, one of those important admin steps for anyone travelling long-term through Europe with a dog.
The vet was fantastic, friendly, professional, and even English-speaking, which made everything simple. They registered Roly, carried out a routine health check, and issued his French (EU) passport on the spot.
Total cost: around $60 for the check-up, registration, and the EU passport.
The EU passport is a game-changer for pet travel. It replaces the need for constant vet visits and new health certificates at each border. With it, Roly can now travel freely between EU countries for the next year as long as his rabies vaccination stays valid.
It’s one of those small but huge wins for life on the road, less paperwork, more adventure.
Dinner that night was at PHO ANH EM, a Vietnamese restaurant serving pho, noodles, and fresh rolls bursting with flavour.
Wednesday &Thursday. Work, Walks & Pancake Farewell
Not every day on the road is about exploration, and that’s exactly what makes it real. Wednesday was spent working from the Airbnb, and Roly and I took our usual 45-minute walk along the Arsenal-Redon Canal in the afternoon. The sun was shining, the water shimmered, and the city moved with that charm that defines Rennes.
That evening, I cooked the sirloin steak I’d picked up from the market earlier in the week, which was tender, and perfect with a glass of red wine.
The next morning came with that bittersweet feeling of packing up and moving on. Leaving days are equal parts chaos and excitement.
Before hitting the road, I stopped at Oh My Biche, a dog-friendly café that doubles as a co-working spot. I ordered pancakes with maple syrup, bacon, and scrambled eggs, and it absolutely hit the spot. It was the perfect send-off.
Where to Eat & Drink
Crêperie au Marché des Lices – Buckwheat crepes and local cider
Oh My Biche – Dog-friendly café and co-working gem, and the best brunch in town
Chez Brume – Refined yet relaxed bistro serving fresh seafood
Pho Anh Em – Fragrant Vietnamese pho, noodles, and spring rolls
La Cavale – Cosy bistro with natural wines and modern French plates
L’AOC – Seasonal, elevated French dishes using regional ingredients in a relaxed setting.
Superkraft – Bistro-meets-bar with great coffee by day and creative cocktails by night.
Origines Restaurant-Bar-Microbrasserie – Industrial-style eatery pairing craft beer with generous, flavourful dishes.
Le Bacchus – Wine bar and bistro with live jazz, candlelight, and a romantic edge.
Le Tournesol – Small, friendly wine bar perfect for easy evenings and good conversation.
Why Rennes Stuck With Me
Rennes has a spark that’s hard to define. What I loved most is how liveable it feels. You can walk almost everywhere, pick up a baguette and flowers from the market, stop for wine at a bar you didn’t plan to visit, and end the day by the canal with locals who feel more like neighbours.Rennes has character stitched into its daily life.It wasn’t the biggest city, the most dramatic, or the flashiest stop on my route. But it was the one that felt the most real; creative, social, and full of heart. For now, it’s my favourite chapter on this journey.
Now, it’s time for the next route.
Next stop: Nantes.
The Arrival
Rouen was never meant to be an eight-day stop but that’s the thing about the places that surprise you. They quietly convince you to stay longer.
After the drive from Calais, I arrived to a city that looked like a painting with half-timbered houses, gothic spires, cobbled streets that curve just enough to make you wonder what’s around the corner. My Airbnb on 31 Rue du Fardeau had everything a traveller dreams of: high ceilings, art-filled walls, colourful furnishings, and morning light pouring through tall windows.
My car was tucked neatly away at the Opéra car park just five minutes away, and I had everything I needed; coffee, comfort, and a city waiting to be explored.
If you’re travelling Europe long-term by car, Rouen is the kind of base that makes sense. A week in one place gives you space to breathe, explore, and still feel the pull of the road ahead.
Why Rouen Works
Rouen has an easy rhythm. It’s historic but not stuck in the past, beautiful but lived in, romantic without trying too hard.
It’s where Gothic cathedrals meet indie cafés, and history meets small daily pleasures. A warm croissant, a rain shower over cobblestones, a late-night glass of wine with live music in the background.
It’s also a very dog-friendly city in France. Roly was welcomed everywhere, cafés, shops, even restaurants usually with a smile and a water bowl.
The Cafés & Morning Rituals
Mornings began at Café Augustin, a minute from my apartment. It’s an eclectic little spot with large windows perfect for people-watching. I'd also enjoy a dirty chai latte at Columbus Café, which was also close by.
For other great café stops, Prélude Café, Bibelot, and Madame A are beautiful choices for coffee and brunch. Café Crème and Couleur Café bring that easy French café charm.
History & Hidden Corners
Rouen’s history runs deep. It’s where Joan of Arc met her fate, and where Monet painted the same cathedral façade over and over to capture its changing light.
Walking through the city is like flipping between centuries
Cathédrale Notre-Dame towers over the old town, all stone lace and shadow.
The Gros-Horloge, a golden clock suspended above a cobbled street, still ticks as it has for hundreds of years.
Rue Eau-de-Robec is one of Rouen’s prettiest streets, half-timbered houses, small canals, and vintage shops.
For art lovers, stop by Hangar 107 for modern exhibitions, or L’Établi for local contemporary pieces. And if you love vinyl or vintage, Aesthetic Circle Record Shop is worth a browse.
Sunday in Rouen. Markets & Quiet Streets
Sunday in France has its own tempo, calm, simple, almost sacred. In Rouen, that means the city slows to a whisper.
Most shops and restaurants close completely on Sunday and Monday, and the few that open typically shut around 1:30 PM including the main Marché Saint-Marc.
The food market itself is worth the early start with stalls piled with cheese, meats, fish, vegetables, fruits, and fresh bread. Locals chatting and dogs weaving through the crowd like regulars. It’s the perfect glimpse of everyday French life.
By early afternoon, the city empties. Streets fall quiet, and the sound of church bells replaces traffic. It’s oddly soothing, a reminder to slow down too.
That evening, I wandered through the old town and ended the day with a crepe and three gelato toppings from Amorino. Sweet, simple perfection.
The Day Trip: Étretat Cliffs
When the sun broke through later in the week, I decided to make the 1.5-hour drive from Rouen to Étretat, one of Normandy’s most breathtaking coastal towns.
The route winds through fields and villages before the sea appears suddenly, framed by white chalk cliffs. I stopped first at La Flottille, a cosy dog-friendly restaurant a short walk from the beach. The smell of butter, garlic, and cream greets you instantly. I ordered mussels in cream sauce which were rich, delicate, and easily a 10/10.
After lunch, Roly and I explored the cobbled beach, framed by breathtaking cliffs on both sides. Roly paddled in the sea while I watched the waves hit the rocks, sunlight turning everything gold.
We climbed Falaise d’Aval as sunset hit, the kind of view that reminds you why you travel. Standing there, surrounded by cliffs and coves, with Roly beside me and the sea stretching endlessly ahead, everything felt right.
A French Date & Live Music
Somewhere between cathedral strolls and coastal hikes, I met Cédric. We met for a walk in the Botanical Gardens, which turned out not to be dog-friendly, but we made it work, walking and talking in a different area, and heading to the city in the evening for dinner at Zhoushi, fresh sushi and then Victorine Piano Bar across the road.
Victorine is Rouen’s hidden gem, with a grand piano at the centre, cosy décor, and sophistication. I ordered a local Sauvignon, he ordered red wine, and for a few hours, everything was just music and conversation.
When we left, the cobbled streets were quiet, the cathedral glowing softly in the distance. And there, under the Rouen moon, we shared a kiss, one of those perfectly cinematic moments you can’t plan, only live.
A night later, I returned to Victorine Piano Bar for live jazz, oysters, and champagne. The show was meant to be at its sister bar, Victorine Jazz Bar, but after flooding, it moved back here. It was another fun filled night.
The Food Scene
Rouen’s food scene is surprisingly rich for its size. Highlights include:
Navio — Modern French, where I had perfectly cooked medium-rare beef with caramelised vegetables.
Hanoï Délice — Vietnamese comfort food perfect on a rainy day.
Zhoushi — Fresh sushi made in front of you.
La Pêcherie — Seafood lovers, take note.
Listo — Ecuadorian dishes full of colour and flavour.
Bân Thaï and Bambou — for a taste of Asia.
Le Kitsch, Lé Là, and Tempo — modern French done beautifully.
Amorino — Crepes and gelato piled high (mandatory).
La Pasta Tinto — A welcoming Italian with gluten-free options and friendly staff. Roly even got water and ham. Pure dog-hospitality perfection.
Rouen has that lovely French habit of slowing you down with food. You sit, savour, and stay longer than you meant to.
Nightlife & Local Spots
For drinks, Le Charleston and L’Estaminet Bières & Cocktails are both fantastic, full of character and great music. Victorine Piano Bar and Victorine Jazz & Wine offer a more elegant vibe, while The Sound of the Horn is perfect for a laid-back glass.
The Journey Onwards
On my last morning, I checked out at 11am. One final look at the space that had been home for eight days. Before the long drive to Rennes, I stopped at La Pasta Tinto for lunch and ordered pasta with shellfish, and Roly was treated like a king with a full bowl of ham from the staff. The restaurant filled up quickly with locals, always the best sign.
Following a good meal, a happy dog, and a full heart we were now ready to travel onwards to Rennes.
Why Rouen Stayed With Me
Rouen feels like a city in balance. History without heaviness. Charm without cliché. The kind of place that doesn’t demand attention but quietly captures it.
It’s full of small joys, cafés with character, friendly faces, dogs at every table, and light that hits the cobblestones just right.
This was my first chapter in my European road trip and I couldn’t have asked for a better beginning.
Merci, Rouen. Next stop, Rennes.
From One Journey to the Next
After six months of exploring the UK from January to July 2025, from Cornwall’s beaches to Bristol’s art scene, I realised how much the rhythm of the open road suited me. Mornings without alarms. Days shaped by curiosity. The joy of Roly riding shotgun, ears flapping in the breeze.
Somewhere between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, the idea of continuing the journey across Europe stopped feeling wild… and started feeling right.
So when autumn arrived, I decided to go for it. This time: a little further afield, Europe.
The Final Day in London: Packing Up a Chapter
October 2nd, 2025, the day everything became real.
I spent the entire day packing up the last of my belongings, underestimating how long the “final bits” would actually take (classic). But by the end of it, everything was loaded into my Mini One, Roly was in tow, and my little car was officially transformed into a European travel pod.
I took one last look at my London apartment, closed the door behind me, and exhaled. I didn’t know exactly what was ahead, just that it was time. Time to open a new chapter, even if the pages haven’t been written yet.
As I drove away with Roly curled up beside me, his eyes full of curiosity, I felt the shift. And just like that, life on the road had officially begun.
Why I Stayed in Folkestone Before the Eurotunnel
Pro tip: If you’re doing a big move or long-distance road trip, take the pressure off. I drove to Folkestone the night before my Eurotunnel crossing and it was such a good call.
The journey from London took around 2 hours and 45 minutes thanks to rush hour traffic, and by the time I arrived (around 9pm), I was starving. Pizza was the only thing on the to-do list.
I stayed at the Burlington Hotel, BW Premier by Best Western which had a smooth check-in, friendly staff, and was dog-friendly.
Before heading to the Eurotunnel in the morning, I also made a quick stop at the M&S Simply Food at the nearby petrol station to stock up on snacks and groceries. After a long travel day, having something to eat when I arrived in Rouen without needing to hunt for a shop was a game-changer.
Just scenic drives, dog-friendly stays, and a flexible lifestyle that made room for spontaneity.
Morning of the Crossing: Eurotunnel Pet Tips
Roly and I went for a short walk along the promenade in the rain. I couldn’t quite see France across the Channel, but I knew it was just out there waiting.
We headed to the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle terminal early, and I highly recommend you do the same.
Here’s the breakdown of the process:
Main check-in
Pet check-in (they scan your dog’s microchip + documents)
UK passport control
EU passport control
Toilet/snack/fuel stop before boarding
Give yourself 1.5+ hours, especially if you’re travelling with a dog. Everything runs efficiently, but it’s not a 10-minute job.
Inside the Eurotunnel: 35 Minutes to a New Chapter
Once waved through, I drove onto the shuttle train with car after car, neatly stacked like a real-life game of Tetris. It feels orderly. Industrial. Efficient.
Once parked, I switched off the engine, handbrake on, and settled in. The train started moving with barely a jolt. No dramatic clunks or lurches, just a subtle hum. For 35 quiet minutes, we cruised beneath the Channel.
Before I knew it, we were slowing with arrival in Calais. I restarted the engine, and waited for the doors ahead to open. France was just moments away.
Driving in France: What to Expect
The moment you roll off the Eurotunnel in Calais, you’re practically on the motorway.
Driving on the right wasn’t as daunting as I expected, it actually felt intuitive pretty quickly. The roads are smooth, and everything is in km/h, not miles per hour. The speed limit is 130km/h on the motorway, which is about 80mph (faster than the UK’s 70mph).
Heads up: French motorways often have speed cameras. You’ll spot occasional warning signs or cameras mounted discreetly. Just something to be mindful of.
I settled in for the 3-hour drive to Rouen, music on, Roly snoozing in the front.
Pit Stop Magic: Chocolate Briochette & Roly’s Stretch
About halfway into the drive, I needed a toilet. The thing is once you leave the motorway in France, you’re often in tiny, sleepy towns with not much open. By sheer luck, I found a gem: Boulangerie Victor in a village just outside Abbeville, called Nouvion-en-Ponthieu.
It smelt like heaven, warm bread, pastries, that perfect bakery scent. I grabbed a chocolate briochette and asked the woman behind the counter to warm it up slightly. The chocolate started melting just enough… and wow, so delicious. I could’ve eaten ten.
Toilet? ✔️
Snack? ✔️
Stretch break for Roly? ✔️
We were both happy.
First Impressions of Rouen
The final hour of the drive was smooth, and we arrived in Rouen around 6pm. The city was alive, people chatting over wine, walking dogs, shopping, laughing. That Friday night feeling was in the air. It felt vibrant, social, full of energy.
I checked into my Airbnb and only brought in a few bits from the car, some clothes, essentials, dog food. No need to unpack everything when I’m only here for a week.
Later that evening, I wandered the town just to soak it in. People dining indoors and outdoors, a man walking his dog, music and murmurs floating in the air. It felt good to be somewhere new. Out of London. In a fresh space. In motion.
What I Learned on Day One of the Road Trip
Take the pressure off by breaking up long journeys (Folkestone overnight was a game-changer)
Stock up on groceries before you cross. Your future self will thank you
Allow buffer time for border control and pet check-ins
Stop at the bakery for a halfway stop and to stretch your legs
Driving in France is easier than expected, especially on the motorways
Speed cameras are around, drive relaxed but be mindful
It’s okay not to know what comes next. Sometimes the road just opens up ahead of you
A Journey That Started Closer to Home
Leaving Hackney Wick for a 6-month UK road trip felt both surreal and simple. One minute we were walking the same canal route we’d strolled for years, and the next we were in a packed car, snacks in the glove box, Roly’s harness on the passenger seat, and a route scribbled in a notebook titled The Next Route.
There was no master plan. Just a rough loop of the UK and a desire to live slower, explore deeper, and let each place leave its mark.
Why We Hit the Road
This wasn’t a gap year or a “finding myself” cliché. It was a choice to do life a little differently, to work remotely, travel with intention, and give my dog Roly the kind of year most humans would envy. No flights. No chaos. Just scenic drives, dog-friendly stays, and a flexible lifestyle that made room for spontaneity.
The Route: A 6-Month UK Road Trip Itinerary
Here’s the journey we took, from buzzing cities to peaceful cliffsides. Every stop was dog-friendly, remote-workable, and full of local flavour.
1. Cardiff: Green Space, Arcades & Easy Calm
Base: Neighbourhood Kitchen & Cocktails, Cathedral Road (near Pontcanna)
Read the full Cardiff blog here ->
Highlights:
Bute Park & the River Taff Trail (perfect for long walks)
Cardiff Bay Trail via the Aqua Ride
Dog-friendly cafes like The Wyndham Cafeteria and Brava Cafe
Kings Road Yard farmers market in Pontcanna & Cardiff's vintage arcades
Vibe: Laid-back city energy with tons of green space and friendly locals. An easy, balanced start to life on the road.
2. Bristol: Colours, Art & Canals
Base: Ashton Court
Read the full Bristol blog here ->
Highlights:
Morning walks in Ashton Court Estate with beautiful nature views
Clifton Suspension Bridge and colourful houses
Stokes Croft and Bansky graffiti
Harbourside hangouts and cafes like Society Cafe
Vibe: Creative and full of character. Bristol has colour, culture, and community running through every street.
3. Devon: Sea Air & Slow Living
Base: Brixham, Torquay & Dartmoor
Read the full Devon blog here ->
Highlights:
Broadsands Beach walks and Berry Head coastal views
Hikes to Haytor Rocks and Hound Tor in Dartmoor
Cream tea at The Rugglestone Inn in Widecombe-in-the-Moor
Fresh seafood at Rockfish Brixham, The Oyster Shack and The Crab Shed in Salcombe
Vibe: Sea breeze, winding roads, and the kind of calm that lingers. Devon is slow living at its best.
4. Cornwall: Cliffs, Surf, Sunsets & Coastal Magic
Base: Perranporth & Newquay
Read the full Cornwall blog here ->
Highlights:
8km walks along Perranporth Beach at low tide, often shared with surfers, swimmers, and horses at sunrise
Clifftop trails at St Agnes Head & Wheal Coates, with rust-red mine ruins against the Atlantic
Cosy roasts at The Driftwood Spars & The Peterville Inn in St Agnes
Sunset drinks at Summerhouse or The Watering Hole, perched right on the sand
Boho cafes for remote work like NALU Coffee House, Saltd Cafe, & The Colonial Seafood & Grill
Long beach walks at Fistral, Holywell Bay, and Mawgan Porth
Vibe: Wild cliffs, sand dunes, creative energy, and sea air that resets your soul. Cornwall is where coastal living meets freedom.
Beyond Cornwall
The journey didn’t end there. After Cornwall, we travelled north through the Peak District, Chester, The Lake District, Yorkshire, and Edinburgh. Each with their own story.
Full blogs for these chapters are coming soon, as this space continues to grow, just like the journey itself.
What I Learned on the UK Road
You don’t need to quit your life to change it.
A dog will always choose the scenic route.
The UK is full of quiet, magical places that still feel wild.
And the open road? It’s just another way of coming home to yourself.
From London to Cardiff
After leaving London, I wasn’t sure what would greet us. But what we found was slow mornings, castles, hidden arcades, and a city that quietly lets you breathe. It was the perfect first stop, not too fast, not too quiet, just the right kind of unfamiliar.
Oh, and Roly? He approved immediately.
I got in late on Thursday night, slightly wired from the long drive. The car looked like organised chaos: boxes, bags, snacks, and a life squeezed into one Mini.
Friday started the right way, pancakes, bacon, maple syrup, and a dirty chai at The Wyndham Cafeteria, one of those cosy, dog-friendly spots that feels like a local secret. It was the soft landing I didn’t know I needed.
Exploring the City
Cardiff has this rare quality, a capital city that doesn’t rush you. Everything is walkable, people actually smile, and there’s space to just be.
We started at Cardiff Castle, wandering through its medieval walls before slipping into Bute Park, one of the largest urban parks in the UK. The River Taff runs straight through it, and Roly was in his element, nose to the ground, tail in overdrive.
Later that afternoon, I stopped at Uisce by Heaney’s for oysters and cocktails. It’s the kind of modern, easy-going restaurant where you lose track of time, sleek but unpretentious, and dog-friendly too. If you’re planning a longer meal, their sister spot Heaney’s next door serves tasting menus that balance local produce and creative flair beautifully.
Saturday Markets & Hidden Arcades
Saturday started at Kings Road Yard, home to a small farmers market with local produce, and a lively mix of vendors. From there, it was a short walk to Brava Cafe in Pontcanna for a smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel.
Pontcanna itself has an easy, village feel, leafy streets, independent cafes, and relaxed weekend energy.
Back in the city, I spent hours wandering Cardiff’s Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades which feel like stepping back in time. Morgan Quarter, Castle Arcade, and High Street Arcade are filled with vintage shops, coffee stops, and quirky independent stores. Spillers Records, tucked inside Morgan Arcade, is a must-visit, the world’s oldest record store, still spinning vinyl since 1894.
For vintage treasures, Penny Lane Vintage and Central Market are worth a browse, and Riverside Market offers more local finds if you visit on a Sunday.
Dinner that night was at Neighbourhood Kitchen & Cocktails, easy-going, lively, and conveniently located right below my Airbnb.
Sunday by the Bay
Sunday was for slow exploring. I took the Aqua Bus from Cardiff Castle to Mermaid Quay, a river ride that gives you a whole new view of the city. From there, I walked the Cardiff Bay Trail, a 1.5-hour loop that circles the waterfront and passes landmarks like the Pierhead Building and Wales Millennium Centre.
Following the walk, I enjoyed lunch at The Sultan, a Turkish restaurant serving grilled meats, warm bread, and comforting meze. The team were friendly, the food was excellent, and dogs are welcome inside, the perfect post-walk stop.
Work, Coffee, Repeat
Monday and Tuesday were for catching up on work. I set up base at Uncommon Ground Coffee Roastery in the Royal Arcade which has fast Wi-Fi, good coffee, and the kind of background hum that makes getting things done easy.
When you work remotely, you quickly learn that not all cafes make good offices but this one does. The staff are friendly, the playlists are good, and it’s right in the heart of the city.
Midweek in Nature
By Wednesday, I was craving open space. A short drive out of the city led to Fforest Fawr, a mix of woodland trails and wide forest paths, and Forest Farm Country Park, where the trails wind along rivers and wetlands, perfect for clearing your head and letting Roly run wild.
Eating & Drinking in Cardiff
A few standouts worth noting:
Casanova — refined Italian tucked away in the city centre.
Asador 44 — Spanish grill and wine house serving incredible tapas and meats.
Mowgli Street Food — vibrant Indian comfort food.
La Pantera - a lively taco bar tucked in the city centre, great for casual bites and cocktails, with outdoor seating that’s dog-friendly.
Pasture — the city’s best steak house.
Bar 44 and Curado Bar — great for tapas and wine (not dog-friendly inside).
Tiny Rebel — craft beer, casual atmosphere, and dog-friendly.
Uisce by Heaney’s & Neighbourhood Kitchen — best balance of food, cocktails, and welcome-to-all energy.
💌 A Note from the Road
This first stop in Wales felt like the beginning of a slower, more spacious chapter. Cardiff has a way of easing you into travel with friendly faces and enough nature to remind you to slow down.
The River Taff runs right through the heart of the city, and by the end of the week, it felt like a quiet companion, always nearby, always moving.
Because sometimes, all you need is a new destination, a long walk, a dog at your side, and the courage to keep going.
Next stop: Bristol.
The Journey To Bristol
After Wales, our UK road trip wound its way into Bristol, a city buzzing with colour, creativity, and riverfront charm. It’s one of those places that doesn’t need to try. The art, the food, the people, all creative, all confident, and completely unpretentious.
I first came in February, staying at a studio on Kenneth Road. It was freezing then and Roly wore his new puffer jacket like a pro as we crossed the Clifton Suspension Bridge but the energy was undeniable. Even in the cold, Bristol buzzed.
By May, when I returned following my trip in Cornwall, it was warmer days, brighter skies, and a new base. I stayed in an airbnb in Bower Ashton, a great base for the return trip. You’ve got Ashton Court Estate and Leigh Woods right on your doorstep, the Harbourside minutes away, and the best of the city within reach. It’s that rare mix of green and urban that makes life feel easy. If I ever moved out of London, I could see myself here.
Why Bristol Works
Bristol’s got soul. It’s a port city turned cultural powerhouse, constantly evolving but never losing its character. The Harbourside, once packed with trading ships, is now a blend of restaurants, food markets, cafes, art spaces, and converted warehouses. The old cranes still stand, quiet but proud, keeping watch over a city that knows where it came from.
It’s also fiercely independent. From local businesses to community-owned pubs, Bristol thrives on people doing their own thing. Even Roly got a trim at About The Dog and came out looking dapper.
And somewhere between mural-hunting and market-hopping, I even found a dog-friendly gym called Trojan Fitness. Absolute win. When you’re living on the road, finding somewhere you can lift, move, and reset without leaving your dog behind is rare. For me, getting a proper weights session in was the cherry on top of an already balanced city routine.
The Banksy Trail
Bristol is where Banksy began, and his mark is everywhere, both literally and in spirit.
Well-Hung Lover – 7 Park Street, BS1 5NF
Mild Mild West – 80 Stokes Croft, BS1 3QY
The Girl with the Pierced Eardrum – Albion Dockyard, BS1 6UT
The joy of seeing them isn’t just the art itself, it’s how naturally they sit in the landscape. You’ll find old and new pieces, and murals from other artists filling in the gaps. Walk the streets of Stokes Croft, Montpelier, and Bedminster, and the city becomes one big open-air gallery.
Neighbourhoods That Define Bristol
Clifton & Hotwells
Elegant Georgian terraces and the famous Clifton bridge. Don’t miss the colourful hillside houses.
Stokes Croft & Montpelier
The creative heart, indie cafes, restaurants, murals, and thrift stores. Try That Thing for vintage, Upfest Gallery for street art, The Crafty Egg and Cafe Kino for good coffee, breakfast and laptop days.
Harbourside & Wapping Wharf
Perfect for lazy afternoons. Grab a seat by the water, drift between the container restaurants, or catch the sunset on the waterfront.
Southville & North Street
Murals, markets, and community. Tobacco Factory Sunday Market is a must for food stalls and live music. The Spotted Cow is good for drinks and a Sunday roast.
Easton
Multicultural, artistic, and full of local flavour. You’ll find hidden gems like The Plough Inn and tiny bakeries tucked between terraces.
Bower Ashton
My pick for where to stay. Peaceful mornings, easy city access, and woodland walks right from your door.
Where to Eat & Drink
Rennes might be small, but its food scene punches way above its size, full of creative bistros, laid-back wine bars, and modern crêperies that reflect the city’s character: a little classic, a little rebellious, and always delicious.
Nadu – Sri Lankan in Stokes Croft, flavour-packed and dog friendly.
Bravas – Tapas and wine on Cotham Hill; order everything.
The Saigon Kitchen – Vietnamese comfort on Zetland Road.
Burra – Laid-back brunch spot on North Street.
Bowman – Korean plates worth crossing town for.
Society Cafe (Harbourside) – the kind of place you could work all day.
The Apple – cider bar on a boat; Bristol in a nutshell.
The Old Duke – jazz, pints, and proper character.
And then there’s the Sunday roast situation. The Bank Tavern, The Shakespeare Tavern, The Spotted Cow, and The Kensington Arms are all top tier, but good luck walking in without a booking. Trust me, book a week or two ahead. Bristol doesn’t mess around when it comes to roast dinners.
Bristol’s Vintage & Creative Side
St Nicholas Market is a treasure hunt of vinyl, vintage clothes, and global food stalls. Gloucester Road has a long stretch of independent shops, perfect for a slow wander.
There’s also a visible creative rhythm here. Music drifts from side streets, murals evolve overnight, and people actually talk to you in cafes. It feels like a city in motion, but one that knows exactly who it is.
Why Bristol Stuck With Me
Bristol feels real. It’s creative without trying too hard, conscious without being preachy, and welcoming without ever losing its edge.
It has that rare combination, history, art, nature, and modern culture, all packed into one walkable city. You can wake up to birds in Leigh Woods, grab coffee by the Harbourside, eat tapas in Redland, then end the night at a live music bar. It’s a city that lets you fully embrace yourself. There's much to love and I'll definetely be back.
Next stop: Devon
The Route To South Devon
After Bristol, I headed down to South Devon. I based myself in Brixham, a colourful fishing town that feels like a postcard, working harbour, pastel cottages, seafood galore, and dog-friendly walks in every direction.
A short walk from there leads to Berry Head Nature Reserve, a cool find in South Devon. The cliffs sweep out into the sea, home to guillemots and wildflowers, and The Guardhouse Cafe serves breakfast with a view. Roly loved it too, wide open space, friendly dogs, and the occasional whiff of bacon drifting in the breeze.
Broadsands Beach became our morning ritual with wide sands, calm tides, and friendly locals who all seemed to know each other’s dogs by name. Elberry Cove nearby was another gem, a tucked-away bay perfect for a post-breakfast walk.
Life Between Coast and Moor
Brixham made a good base, cosy, coastal, and with character. When I wanted a change of scene, I’d drive inland to Dartmoor National Park. The moorlands hit different, open, wild, and full of mood. Haytor Rocks and Hound Tor were standouts, with sheep grazing against misty backdrops.
To warm up, I’d stop for a cream tea at The Cafe On The Green in Widecombe-in-the-Moor, where scones come out still warm. For pub stops, The Rugglestone Inn and Two Bridges Hotel were both classics for cosy fires and hearty food.
Back on the coast, Torquay offered a totally different rhythm: promenades, marinas filled with yachts, and easy going seaside charm. Dinner at Siam Garden Thai was a surprise find, tucked away and authentic.
The South Hams
From Brixham, I followed the curve of the coast toward Salcombe and the South Hams a really pretty stretch of Devon. Think turquoise coves and winding lanes.
Bigbury-on-Sea was breathtaking, a beach revealing a sandy causeway to Burgh Island. Lunch at The Oyster Shack (mussels and a glass of white) summed up the region perfectly: casual, coastal, quietly perfect.
In Salcombe, I wandered through narrow streets lined with boutiques and pastel cottages before heading to North Sands Beach for a sunset stroll. The Crab Shed lived up to its name serving up a yummy crab lunch, fresh, and right by the harbour.
I also ventured inland to Totnes, a creative market town full of vintage shops, organic cafes, and a slightly bohemian energy. I had lunch at Rumour Kitchen & Bar.
Exeter to Plymouth. History Meets Harbour
Heading north, Exeter made a good stop between coasts with its student buzz, and riverside calm. I grabbed a coffee and Portuguese tart from The Exploding Bakery, then wandered the Exeter Quayside before checking out Exeter Cathedral.
From there, I carried on to Plymouth, a city that surprised me. It wears its maritime history proudly. The Hoe, Smeaton’s Tower, and the Mayflower Steps are all worth a wander. I enjoyed Royal William Yard, a redeveloped naval complex turned foodie hub, and nearby Wembury Beach for a quiet dog walk to end the day.
Devon on a Plate
Everything tastes more fresh here.
Seafood highlights:
Albero (Brixham) — seafood linguine
Rockfish (Brixham & Plymouth) — hake & chips
The Crab Shed (Salcombe) — crab heaven
Cream teas & cosy stops:
The Cafe On The Green - Widecombe-in-the-Moor
Two Bridges Hotel, Dartmoor — fireside charm
Fingle Bridge Inn, Dartmoor — riverside views
Pub classics:
The Rugglestone Inn — venison pie & real ale
The Ship Inn, Noss Mayo — crab sandwich by the creek
The Masons Arms, Exmoor — Michelin-star country pub
🐾 Dog-Friendly Devon
Beaches like Broadsands, Bantham, and Saunton Sands welcome dogs year-round, and most pubs, restaurants and cafes happily bring out a water bowl before you even sit down.
Roly’s favourites? Morning walks on Broadsands Beach, the coastal path from Berry Head, wild runs at Haytor, a splash at Elberry Cove.
The Takeaway
Two weeks in Devon felt like pressing pause on life, swapping screens for sea views, noise for nature, and hurry for something slower and more grounded.
If you’re craving a trip that blends coast, countryside, good food, and a bit of soul, Devon delivers.
Next stop: Cornwall
My Cornwall Escape
After Devon, I drove to Cornwall to base myself there for two months (April to May). There’s something about Cornwall, its mix of cliff trails, surf, and sea air, that keeps you chasing the next view. Days begin with the sound of seagulls, and end with fiery sunsets over the ocean. Somewhere in between you’re walking cliffs, swimming in turquoise coves, and finding cafes that make remote work feel like holiday.
In April, I based myself in Perranporth, a long golden stretch on Cornwall’s north coast. My days found a natural rhythm: morning walks with Roly along the beach, hours spent working from a boho cafe or my seafront cottage Airbnb, and evening runs at low tide. There’s an effortless ease to life here, the kind that makes even ordinary moments feel cinematic.
North Cornwall. Beach Days & Coastal Living
Perranporth quickly felt like home. In April, the town had a calm, easy flow before the summer crowds rolled in, so it often felt like Roly and I had the beach to ourselves, sharing it with the locals and their dogs. People here are genuinely friendly; everyone smiles, says hello, and it doesn’t take long before you start recognising the same faces on your morning walks.
At low tide, Perranporth Beach stretches for miles, an 8 km expanse of golden sand where you’ll see everything from surfers and wild swimmers to riders cantering their horses along the shoreline. It’s the kind of beach that changes by the hour: calm in the morning, lively by afternoon, glowing amber at sunset.
No.4 Breakfast & Bistro is a good go-to for a post-walk brunch. Seiners Arms was the local spot for hearty pub food and local energy. The Tywarnhayle Pub, The Deck Bar, and Pickwicks Fish & Chips were also go-to's depending on the mood; whether it was a casual pint, fish and chips, or a glass of wine.
For sunset, Summerhouse, is a sound choice as it has an elevated view perched right above the sand, or The Watering Hole, the bar set directly on the beach perfect for drinks with ocean views and that warm, golden light that makes you forget what time it is.
When I wasn’t out exploring, I’d work from a cafe window or my seafront cottage Airbnb, watching the tide roll back in, surfers catching the last waves of the day, dogs chasing tennis balls into the surf. It’s the kind of place that balances energy and calm perfectly.
Just up the coast, St Agnes Head and Wheal Coates delivered beautiful clifftop trails. From the path, you can look out over the old Wheal Coates mine, rusted stone walls set against the bright Atlantic, with surfers catching waves at Chapel Porth below.
I enjoyed The Peterville Inn and The Driftwood Spars in St Agnes for cosy pub vibes and Sunday roasts. The Tap House, just up the road, is another favourite, laid-back, friendly, and always serving something good on their weekly lunch specials.
Newquay. Surf Vibes & Boho Cafes
A short drive from Perranporth is Newquay which is where I stayed for my second month in Cornwall. It blended surf culture with coastal energy. Beaches like Fistral, Great Western, and Tolcarne were ideal for long walks and sea swims, while Pentire Headland offered panoramic views over Crantock Beach.
Between calls, I’d set up at local cafes like Saltd, NALU Coffee House, Project Eighty Three, or Counterculture, all great for remote work with a side of sea breeze. One of my favourite spots, though, was The Colonial Seafood & Grill on Tolcarne Beach. It’s got that perfect beachfront vibe, you can work from their glass conservatory or patio, order something fresh off the menu, and feel like you’re on holiday even mid-workday. The food’s excellent, the service is warm, and honestly, nothing beats taking a break straight onto the sand on a sunshine day.
In the evenings, I enjoyed live music at Project Eighty Three, wine and homemade pasta at Little Ears Italian (yummy Italian, simple, authentic, and full of flavour), or a drink at The Red Lion pub.
Further along the coast, Mawgan Porth and Holywell Bay stretch wide and open, the kind of beaches where Roly could run for miles. Porthtowan and Mount Hawke are smaller surf towns with a quieter, more local feel that were perfect to wander through between workdays.
Road Trip Day Adventures
St Ives
No Cornwall trip is complete without venturing west. St Ives was every bit as pretty as promised, cobbled lanes spilling toward the harbour, local art galleries tucked between cafes, and that unmistakable sea-salt energy in the air. I spent the afternoon wandering from boutique to beach, ending with fresh oysters and a glass of wine at Cintra Seafood Bar, watching fishing boats sway in the tide.
Sennen Cove & Land’s End
Further west, Sennen Cove felt straight out of a film, turquoise water, sweeping dunes, and surfers catching the last light of the day. After a windswept walk along the coast path toward Land’s End, I stopped at The Old Success Inn for a drink and a plate of something hearty.
Penzance
I spent a day in Penzance, exploring its waterfront and narrow backstreets. The town has a quiet charm, working harbour, creative shops, and locals who’ll happily point you toward their favourite bakery. It’s a perfect jumping-off point for exploring Cornwall’s far west, with St Ives, Mousehole, and Sennen Cove all close by.
Newlyn
Next door to Penzance, Newlyn is smaller and more creative, an old fishing village with a modern twist. It’s known for its art scene and seafood, and Argoe is the spot everyone talks about. The view from the window tables looks straight over the working harbour, and the food, local fish, with lots of flavour and perfectly cooked is worth the detour on its own.
The Eden Project
Heading inland, The Eden Project was a total contrast, a rainforest hidden inside giant glass domes. Tropical palms, Mediterranean gardens, and waterfalls fill the air with humidity and colour. It’s part science project, part escape, and completely worth the detour.
Mawgan Porth & Holywell Bay
Back on the north coast, are Mawgan Porth and Holywell Bay, wide, open beaches perfect for long walks, sea, sand, and endless horizon.
Porthtowan & Mount Hawke
Porthtowan and Mount Hawke offered a slower pace, small surf towns with local cafes and restaurants and hidden coves. Perfect for low-key afternoons between workdays, and watching surfers chase the tide.
South Cornwall. Secret Coves & Garden Calm
Heading south, I fell for the creative, bohemian energy of Falmouth, one of my favourite towns in Cornwall. I spent the day wandering its harbour streets, popping into little boutiques and galleries before dinner at Cribbs, a Caribbean restaurant full of good vibes and warmth. Nearby, Glendurgan Gardens was a dream to explore, winding paths, exotic blooms, and leafy trails that open onto hidden views of the Helford River.
Further along the coast, the Lizard Peninsula was a hidden gem. Kynance Cove felt almost tropical, sheer cliffs dropping into turquoise water and soft white sand tucked between rocky coves. I also drove out toward Helston for my mum’s birthday dinner at The Greenhouse in St Keverne. It's husband and wife owned and specialises in fresh local ingredients, the perfect end to a coastal day.
East Cornwall & Hidden Corners
Inland, Golitha Falls was a peaceful woodland walk leading to waterfalls on the River Fowey, while Bodmin Moor and Lanhydrock Estate added a dose of history and open space.
Padstow proved worth the hype, seafood at Prawn on the Lawn and a walk along the harbour made for a perfect day.
Dog-Friendly Cornwall 🐾
Cornwall is a dog’s paradise. Almost every beach and trail welcomes dogs, and pubs like Driftwood Spars and The Peterville Inn go out of their way to make them feel part of the family. Roly loved all of the beaches, swimming and running wild across endless sand.
💌 A Note from the Road
Cornwall was a mix of everything I love, beach walks, good food, friendly people, and that constant pull to get outside. From morning swims to working from boho cafes in and exploring coastal towns, every day felt different and effortless. It’s one of those places where you can work, wander, and feel completely at ease all at once.