Nantes, France: When the Road Tests You (and You Stay Cool Anyway)

Leaving Rennes behind, I drove south toward Nantes which was took around 1.5 hours on the open motorway. On the edge of the city, I spotted Parc de la Gaudinière, its trees glowing in rich shades of autumnal amber. With the airbnb check-in not until 3PM, it felt like the perfect place to stop for a walk with Roly. 

We wandered through the park looping around the lake and through the tree-lined paths, soaking up the stillness before heading into the city. Little did I know, that peaceful walk was the calm before the chaos that was about to unfold. 

The Beginning of the Plot Twist: A Bump on the Road

The calm from our park walk didn’t last long. I headed back to the car feeling refreshed and ready to check into the Airbnb. The parking area sits along the roadside, with each car wedged between low stone boulders. 

Getting into the space had already been a bit of a puzzle thanks to the sloped road and narrow gaps. Getting out turned out to be trickier. The boulders sit just below mirror height, so you can’t actually see them when reversing. As I eased out slowly to line up with the road, I heard a quiet thunk.

I got out to check and, sure enough, there it was, a small but clear dent in the back of my Mini. Nothing major, but still annoying. The boot sensor even joined in, beeping on and off as I drove, a gentle reminder of the boulder misfortune. For now, it’s purely aesthetic, a minor scar on the Mini and a reminder that travel has its humbling moments. 

Plot Twist 2: The Airbnb Curveball

I drove into the city and checked into my Airbnb which was on the first-floor above a tattoo shop. The entrance was a little gloomy, with narrow corridors and steep stairs, but nothing I couldn’t handle.

I unloaded the car, carried everything up, with Roly scrurrying up and down with me. Once unapcked I started to feel that post-travel relief… until my phone pinged. It was the host and I received the dreaded words: “Just to let you know, the Wi-Fi is down.”

Every digital nomad knows that Wi-Fi isn’t just a nice-to-have, it’s the lifeline. Without it, there’s no client work, no emails, no connection. I messaged the host back, confirmed the situation, and we agreed to cancel the booking for a refund.

Which meant doing everything I’d just done in reverse. Back down the dark corridor, loading up the car again, and Roly pacing with me between the apartment and the Mini again.

It was now evening, and I needed another plan. 

Plot Twist 3: Booking.com Hotel Overbooking Saga

I found a nearby hotel on Booking.com called Hôtel de la Cité that seemed ideal with good reviews, parking included, and dog-friendly. I booked it straight away, grabbed my bag, and drove over feeling relieved that the day was finally turning around. Or so I thought...

At check-in, the receptionist looked at me, then at her screen, and sighed. “I’m so sorry, we’re fully booked. Booking.com has been overbooking guests all day because of a system error.” Of course, the payment hold had already gone through… but the room? Nowhere to be found.

By this point it was nearing 8PM, and I couldn’t help but laugh, otherwise, I probably would have cried. The day had officially gone full circle: park peace, boulder dent, Airbnb fail, and now a hotel mix-up. Surely, there couldn’t be another plot twist waiting around the corner… right?

Third Time Lucky: Hôtel Billie

At this point, I wasn’t taking any chances. I found another hotel called Hôtel Billie, right in the city centre, and this time, I called directly to confirm:

• Dog-friendly?
• Rooms available?
• Parking nearby? 
• Working WIFI? 

Finally, a yes to everything.

When I arrived, the woman at reception was an absolute gem. She smiled the moment I walked in, helped me bring my luggage inside, and even offered to carry one of the heavier bags up to my room. After the day I’d had, her kindness genuinely felt like medicine.

I parked the car in a nearby car park, and headed back to check in properly. The room was cosy, and exactly what I needed. A sense of peace after hours of chaos.

Of course, there was one final hurdle: the hotel Wi-Fi. It connected instantly on my phone, but my laptop refused to cooperate. Cue a 45-minute tech marathon of DNS resets, DHCP renewals, captive-portal gymnastics before it finally worked.

That night, I sank into the crisp sheets, and exhaled. It had been one of those travel days, the kind that test your patience but leave you quietly proud of how calm you stayed.

Because if there’s one thing this road trip keeps teaching me, it’s that adventure isn’t just in the beautiful moments, it’s also in the messy, mildly ridiculous ones that remind you you’re really out here, doing it. And honestly, the same goes for life.

Friday: A Fresh Lens on Nantes

After a full night’s rest and reset, I woke up ready to see Nantes through a different lens.

Stepping out of Hôtel Billie that morning located on Rue Scribe 26, Bis, the city already felt different. I realised how perfectly placed I was, right in the heart of things, surrounded by independent shops, cafés, and restaurants. Maybe the chaos of changing hotels had actually worked in my favour.

I wandered with Roly through the quiet morning streets, picking up a ham and cheese baguette from Emma Pâtisserie along the way. I ate on the go, weaving through the narrow streets lined with French boutiques, Bonobo, Manfield, Cotelac, and Paul Marius to name a few. At one point, Roly stopped and stared through the window of Hermès, tail wagging, as if he expected me to take him shopping. Sorry, love, we’re not quite at Hermès budget territory.

We wandered into Passage Pommeraye, Nantes’ famous 19th-century shopping arcade. It has beautiful architecture with marble staircases and glass ceilings. Outside, we stopped at Place Royale, one of Nantes’ main squares. In the centre sits a grand fountain surrounded by stone figures, each one representing a local river that flows through the region, including the Loire, Erdre, and Sèvre. The sculptures are so detailed they almost look alive, water spilling gently around them as tourists and locals cross the square. After exploring for a few hours, I headed back to the hotel to work for the afternoon.

By evening, I was ready for good food and went to Le Bistrot Basque de Nantes, a tapas spot that brings a taste of the Basque Country to western France. The atmosphere was warm and buzzy, locals chatting over glasses of wine, plates clinking, the hum of conversation carrying through the terrace.

I ordered three dishes: squid with rice, prawns with garlic, and a creamy pavlova for dessert, paired with a glass of champagne. Everything was rich, full of flavour, and exactly what I needed.

Nantes, I realised over dinner, is a grower. It doesn’t charm you instantly like Rennes or Rouen, it unfolds slowly, through its food, and its little daily details. And by the end of that meal, I knew it was starting to win me over.

Saturday. Pamper & a Little Vinyl Therapy

After 2 weeks on the road, I was overdue for a little self-care. Saturday started with a morning walk through the city to a nail salon called L’Onglerie Nantes, my version of a recharge day. I walked in on a whim and luck was on my side; they had a same-day appointment just a couple of hours later.

With time to spare, Roly and I wandered around the area to explore. Just a few doors down, we found Biche Dogshop, a beautifully curated pet boutique. Naturally, Roly insisted we go in. The owner was so lovely and she told me about Squeek, a rescue dog she was looking after, who was just as sweet as his name. Roly got treats and I got dog mum joy.

A few shops up, a sign caught my eye, Comme à la Radio, a record store stacked with vinyls. As a long-time collector with a vinyl player at my home in London, I couldn’t resist. I spent about 45 minutes digging through the UK garage, deep and tribal house, and drum & bass crates, pure heaven. I left with five new records, future souvenirs to spin when I’m back home (or maybe at an Airbnb with a player, if I'm lucky).

After that, it was time for my appointment at L’Onglerie, and I walked out with fresh gel polish in my favourite pink, a small but satisfying reset. I wasn’t done yet though. Next stop: Comptoir du Soin, a little beauty studio where I booked in for waxing. It felt good to hit pause and take care of myself after weeks of movement.

Dinner that evening was at Chez Thérèse et Denise, a traditional French restaurant where I ordered stewed lamb with fries. Proper comfort food to close out the day.

Sunday in Nantes

I started the day at Les Machines de l’Île, one of Nantes’ most talked-about attractions. It’s home to large mechanical creations inspired by animals and nature, including the city’s famous Grand Éléphant, a 12-metre-tall moving sculpture that sprays water as it walks.

Dogs aren’t allowed on the ride or inside the main gallery, so Roly and I wandered around the outdoor area, checking out the industrial structures nearby. It’s an unusual and creative space. 

Afterwards, we walked along the Loire River, following the pedestrian path lined with trees and bridges. The air was crisp, the light soft, and the city had that easy Sunday stillness France does so well. Most shops close on Sundays here, part of a long-standing tradition that treats the day as one for rest, family, and food. Only a handful of cafés and crêperies stay open, and the slower pace feels intentional. It's a pause in the week rather than an inconvenience.

Nantes was hosting a marathon that morning, the second I’ve come across in France after Rennes last week, adding a burst of energy to the quiet Sunday streets.

I ended the afternoon at Le Coin des Crêpes, a cosy spot serving traditional Breton galettes and sweet crêpes. I ordered a savoury crêpe filled with bacon, leek, cream, and melted cheese, paired with a chilled cider, pure comfort on a plate. For dessert, I couldn’t resist an apple and caramel crêpe, warm and buttery with just the right sweetness. Both were a solid 10/10.

Side note: I’m eating so much bread and pastry in France. I’m going to need to find a run soon before the carbs start catching up. A few runs along the coast in La Rochelle  should keep things in check.

Monday in Nantes: Rain, Serendipity & Sweet Goodbyes

Monday began at Sugar Blue, a cosy café that quickly became my work base. I ordered a warm croissant with coffee, set up my laptop, and settled in for a quiet morning of work.

Between emails, I struck up a lovely conversation with a mother-and-son duo from Boston. The mum, Cindy, was warm, witty, and wonderfully bohemian. She told me she’d spent years as a nomad and is now retired, having now settled in Tomar, Portugal, a town she spoke about with real fondness. Her bag caught my eye too, and Cindy explained that cork is one of Portugal’s biggest natural exports. I love how travelling gives you these small, unexpected exchanges. She even passed me her contact details, so who knows maybe our paths will cross again when I reach Portugal later in my trip.

It was a rainy Monday in Nantes with the sound of rain tapping against the windows all day. Outside, it came down in sheets, the kind that makes timing your exit an extreme sport. When I finally decided to leave the café, the rain returned in full force, so I dashed for cover and ducked into a nearby pub. I ordered a classic English breakfast tea. I know, very British of me in France, but exactly the warm hug I needed on a damp Monday.

Once the rain eased, I wandered into Outremesure, a boutique I’d been eyeing the day before when it was closed for Sunday rest. Inside, I found a gorgeous tote bag and matching cosmetic pouch printed with a quirky dog motif, an instant yes for me. The tote’s big enough to fit my laptop and travel essentials, and the design feels like a little nod to Roly.

The rest of the day stayed low-key. The kind of rainy day that calls for staying in and catching up on work. In the evening, I packed up the car, ready for tomorrow’s drive.

Tuesday: A Farewell Lunch at Emporietto

On my last day in Nantes, I wanted one final meal to end the city on a high note and Emporietto, a tucked-away Italian restaurant about 20 minutes’ walk from the centre, was just that. Finding it felt a bit like a treasure hunt: you have to slip through a quiet gate and down a narrow cobbled alley before stepping inside its stone-vaulted cellar dining room.

The atmosphere was instantly warm with low lighting and rustic walls. I ordered 2 dishes: a mix of tender pork served with creamy mushroom and another with purée, beautifully balanced and full of flavour.

It was the perfect send-off meal, local, and made with care. As I walked back through the narrow graffiti-lined streets with Roly trotting beside me, I felt ready for the next chapter.

Next stop: La Rochelle. 

What I Learned from My Stay in Nantes

Nantes wasn’t the easiest chapter of this road trip. It began with dents, double-bookings, and more rain than planned but it turned into a gentle reminder of what slow travel is really about.

Here’s what I’m taking with me:

• Flexibility is everything. Plans will fall apart (sometimes twice in one day), but there’s always a plan B and often, it leads to something better.
• Kindness shows up when you least expect it. From the hotel receptionist who helped carry my bags to Cindy in the café sharing stories about Portugal, little moments of connection can completely shift your day.
• Aesthetic dents are just that, aesthetic. Whether it’s a car or a travel hiccup, most things look worse than they are.
• Cities take time to reveal themselves. Once the chaos settled, Nantes quietly grew on me. It has creativity, character, and charm beneath the surface.
• Balance matters. Between croissants, crepes, and coastal plans ahead, I’m learning that road life is equal parts indulgence and intention.

Nantes reminded me that not every stop has to be picture-perfect to be meaningful. Some places earn your love slowly, one small story, one kind stranger, and one unexpected detour at a time.