The Routes

Arriving in Barcelona. A New Chapter Begins The drive from Zaragoza to Barcelona was three hours of pure sunshine and open road. The kind of journey that reminds you why slow travel is its own form of therapy. The motorway stretched through wide landscapes, broken occasionally by the silhouette of the Toro de Osborne standing high on the hills like a quiet guardian of the Spanish plains. Windows down, warm air on my face, music playing… it felt like one long, beautiful exhale. I reached Barcelona early evening, just as the sky shifted into that soft dusk glow the city wears so well. After weaving through the wide avenues and tree-lined streets, I arrived at my Airbnb in Dreta de l’Eixample, perfectly placed for a 10-day stay.  Dreta de l’Eixample, my Barcelona Base Eixample is Barcelona at its best with wide boulevards, elegant facades, balconies overflowing with plants, cafes, bars and restaurants on every corner and neighbourhoods stitched together by walkable grid blocks.  From here, I could walk to almost everything; the Gothic Quarter, El Born, Gràcia, even Las Ramblas. It’s central without being chaotic and has that lived-in, everyday charm that makes you feel part of the city instead of just a visitor. The Airbnb itself felt like an instant reset with bright, spacious, high ceilings, beautiful tiles, personality, warmth and space for both me and Roly to properly settle. After weeks of aparthotels and hotel rooms, having a full apartment again felt grounding. A proper kitchen, a proper lounge, and a sense of “home” I didn’t realise I needed until I unlocked the door. A Personal Note I Feel Ready to Share I’d actually been to Barcelona once before in August, for my 40th birthday. The plan was simple and beautiful: celebrate this milestone in a city I’d always dreamed of visiting, surrounded by friends, good food, sunshine, and joy. But life had other plans. In the lead-up to the trip, a series of challenging emotional events collided all at once, and my body reacted in a way I had never experienced before. I went into a dissociative episode, something I didn’t even have the language for at the time. Medically, dissociation is described as a disconnection between thoughts, memories, surroundings, actions, and identity, often triggered by extreme stress or overwhelm. It’s the mind’s emergency brake, a protective mechanism that shuts everything down when the load becomes too heavy. In real life, for me, it meant I wasn’t fully there. I was in Barcelona, with people I loved, on a milestone birthday… but internally I felt numb, distant, almost watching my own life from the outside. It was frightening, confusing, and deeply painful, especially when you’ve envisioned this moment for so long. But I’m sharing this because it turned out to be a defining moment. It reminded me of the importance of boundaries, of listening to my body long before burnout arrives, and of not carrying emotional loads that aren’t mine to hold. I’m a natural empath, and I’ve learned sometimes the hard way that care without boundaries becomes self-abandonment. The build-up of too many emotional demands had pushed me past my capacity, and my body responded the only way it knew how: by shutting down. Since then, I’ve taken the time to understand myself more deeply. To rest. To reset. To rebuild routines that honour my mental and physical health first. And honestly, this entire European road trip The Next Route is part of that healing. Travel has a way of clearing mental fog. It deepens clarity, and shows you parts of yourself you didn’t realise were waiting to be seen. I’ve stepped off social media, slowed down, become more present, and in many ways, I feel the most grounded and authentic I’ve ever felt. And that’s why coming back to Barcelona mattered. It wasn’t just another stop. it was a chapter I needed to rewrite. A second chance to experience the joy, lightness, and magic that I didn’t get to feel the first time around. So as soon as I checked into my Airbnb this time, I didn’t waste a second. I got ready, put on something that made me fabulous, and headed straight out into the Saturday-night energy of the city to enjoy tapas, music, people, life buzzing everywhere. Barcelona, take two. And this time, I was fully here. Saturday Night in Barcelona. Tapas, Music, Drag Queens & Pure City Buzz After getting settled into my Airbnb and glamming up for my first proper Barcelona night out, I headed to meet a new local friend, the perfect way to ease into the city’s electric weekend energy. Stop 1: GATS (Las Ramblas) for Tapas, Cocktails & Warm Vibes We started the night at GATS, tucked just off Las Ramblas. It’s one of those spots that immediately feels inviting with soft lighting, lively chatter, stylish interiors, and major win fully dog-friendly indoors, so Roly joined the evening in true Barcelona fashion. We ordered a selection of tapas to share. Add in some cocktails and new conversations, and it set the tone for a memorable night. Stop 2: CHARLZZ Barcelona for a Live DJ, Red Lights & Drinks A short walk later, we arrived at Charlzz music hall, a live-music bar glowing in shades of red with chandeliers, velvet seating, and a moody, retro atmosphere. Inside, the DJ was playing Latino music, people were laughing, dancing, vibing and yes, Roly was welcome here too. It felt intimate but high-energy at the same time, the kind of bar where time disappears between songs. Stop 3: Ocaña, Plaça Reial for Drag, Nightlife & Barcelona Energy From there, we wandered over to Ocaña in Plaça Reial, a square known for its arched walkways, bustling restaurants, street performers, drag queens, artists, tourists, locals…  One of the drag performers working the square stopped to say hello. Inside, the atmosphere was warm and lively, the kind of place where you can sit for hours just soaking in the scene. Stop 4: Madame Jasmine for Neon Lights, Good Vibes & Queer Energy We ended the night at Madame Jasmine, a queer bar bursting with colour, music, personality and a crowd that felt beautifully eclectic. Neon lights, people dancing freely, cocktails flowing, and Roly happily taking it all in from my lap like the seasoned nightlife companion he’s becoming. It was vibrant and a fun final stop on a night that reminded me how alive Barcelona is. Sunday: Slow Wanders, Quiet Streets & Casa Lolea Tapas Sunday was a slower pace. I walked from Eixample toward Casa Lolea, a beautiful little tapas spot with an intimate, bistro-style vibe. The walk itself was a joy. As we got closer to El Born, the architecture tightened with slimmer alleyways, laundry hanging between balconies, warm terracotta walls, and that unmistakable beauty of the historic centre. Casa Lolea was warm and buzzing when I arrived. I ordered a glass of rosé and their tuna tartare. It was a simple lunch but it hit all the right notes. After eating, I wandered slowly back through the maze of streets, stopping at a bright, modern Asian supermarket out of curiosity.  Back in Eixample, the afternoon light bounced off the balconies and leafy trees, and the city felt calm in a way that only Sundays manage. It was the perfect reset day: light, slow, and exactly what I needed between Barcelona nights out. Monday in Barcelona: Vet Errands, Coffee Culture & Cosy Terraces Monday was one of those everyday-life travel days. First on the agenda: Roly’s health admin. I walked him over to Saluvet, a local veterinary pharmacy, to pick up flea and worm treatment. Super straightforward, friendly staff, and it felt good to tick off one of those practical tasks you always end up doing when you travel long-term with a dog. Roly trotted out proudly, medicine sorted, tail wagging like he’d just accomplished a major mission. From there, we wandered over to D. Origen Coffee Roasters, a cool, minimalist neighbourhood cafe filled with digital nomads tapping away on laptops. It had: great energy strong coffee big open windows the buzz of people creating things I settled in for a few hours of work, a productive, grounding pocket of time that balances out busy travel days. Later, I walked over to El Nacional, one of Barcelona’s most famous food halls. Inside, it was stunning with warm lighting, Christmas decorations, glowing bars, people sipping cava and eating under giant illuminated stars. But unfortunately… it's not dog friendly. So Roly and I admired the interior from the entrance before continuing on. Just around the corner from the beautiful Mercat de la Concepció, I found Casa Amàlia, a cosy Catalan restaurant that is dog friendly inside and outside. The terrace had a log burner glowing away, which instantly made it feel like a warm hug on a cool December afternoon. I ordered mussels in a coconut sauce with crusty sourdough. The staff were lovely, the food was delicious, and Roly curled up under the table like he owned the place. It was one of those lunches that reminds you why Barcelona is such a joy to live in for a little while. By the evening, I was ready for a quiet night in at the Airbnb. I ordered Caribbean from Joosy Gastro on Glovo (Spain’s Deliveroo equivalent), the perfect comfort food to end a full but gentle Monday. Tuesday: Gaudí, Wanders & a Banksy Afternoon I started Tuesday with Roly at one of Barcelona’s great architectural icons, Casa Milà (La Pedrera). The building ripples like stone waves. Standing underneath its sculpted balconies with Roly posing out front felt like one of those “I’m in Barcelona” moments". From there, we spent the morning wandering the Eixample streets. I did a bit of window shopping. For lunch, we walked over to Fa Patxoca, a casual local spot with outdoor tables and that cosy neighbourhood feel. I ordered gambas al ajillo, prawns simmered in garlic oil and a slice of pan con tomate on the side.  After lunch, I headed to the Banksy Museum. It was actually really cool to see some of his well-known pieces recreated full-scale. Roly came inside with me (another win for Barcelona’s dog-friendly energy) and just wandered through the rooms like it was the most normal thing in the world. He sniffed around, watched people, and seemed genuinely curious about everything. We finished by walking up the stencilled staircase, Roly leading the way, and stepped back out into the daylight around an hour after exploring, feeling like it was a fun little detour. Interesting, easy, and worth the stop. On the way back, I stopped for a drink at Café del Centre, one of the oldest cafes in the city. Sitting there with a glass of whiskey, people-watching, felt like the perfect way to ease into the evening. Wednesday: Work Day & a Wind-Down Drink at Sway Soul Lounge Wednesday was a full work-from-home day with the laptop out, coffee on repeat, Roly snoozing in different corners of the apartment like a little remote-work colleague. By the time early evening rolled around, I needed a change of scenery, so I wandered over to Sway Soul Lounge, a low-lit cocktail bar not too far from my Airbnb. Melrose Café: The Most Cheerful Start to a Thursday On Thursday morning I wandered over to Melrose Café, which is basically a pink dreamhouse turned brunch spot with all pink interiors, flower walls and neon signs. It’s fully dog-friendly, so Roly had the time of his life being fussed over by the staff while I ordered breakfast. The food was really good, and the team were so warm and welcoming. It was the kind of place where you can sit for a while, sip your coffee, and just enjoy the vibe of being surrounded by fifty shades of pink. Roly approved. The rest of the day, I just wandered with no real plan letting the side streets, cafes and little moments guide me. In the evening, I ended up having drinks on the terrace below my apartment, where I got chatting to a local Spanish couple who were also out with their adorable rescue dog. It was a simple, relaxed end to the day, and one of those small travel moments that makes a place feel familiar. Friday: Sunshine, Art, and a Little Barcelona Magic I started the morning at La Sagrada Família, which feels even more dramatic in person than in photos. With the newest towers rising, it’s now set to become the tallest church in Europe, and you can really feel that vertical pull when you’re standing beneath it with all those gorgeous Gaudí details climbing towards the sky. I wandered through the Christmas market outside and stopped at a small artist’s stall, where I ended up chatting with the woman who ran it. She was warm and full of stories, and I loved the colours in her work, so I bought a piece to take home. A little slice of Barcelona to have back in the UK with me. After that, Roly and I found a bench in the park beside the basilica and sat in the sun for a while, just soaking up the atmosphere. On the walk back to the Airbnb, I stopped at a cafe with a terrace for a late breakfast and a glass of cava, the perfect way to ease into the afternoon. Saturday: Sunshine, Tapas, and an Evening with Barcelona Saturday started with lunch at Bar Betlem, where I met a new local friend. We sat outside on the terrace, sharing tapas in the sun and chatting. It was easy, light, and very Barcelona. By the evening, I wandered through the city with the Christmas lights switched on above the streets. The whole place felt festive with bright Catalan phrases hanging over the road, people out strolling, that cosy December buzz. I ended the night at Casa Boney, eating at the bar with a view straight into the open kitchen. I ordered steak tartare and tagliolini aglio olio e peperoncino with cockles. It was one of those pleasant solo evenings where you don’t need a plan; the city just carries you along. Sunday: A Long Walk, A Missed Cable Car & A Perfect Beach Ending For our final full day in Barcelona, I decided we’d walk from the Airbnb all the way up to Avinguda Miramar to take the cable cars over the city. It took just over an hour but it was warm, almost summer-like, and the walk itself felt like part of the day rather than a means to an end. We passed cafes opening for brunch, and one of Gaudí’s other masterpieces: Casa Batlló, its mosaic facade glowing in the morning sun. Even though I’ve seen it before, it still stops you in your tracks with those bone-like balconies, the wavy lines, the colours shifting with the light. A small moment of Barcelona magic on the way. When we finally reached the cable cars, we found out they weren’t dog-friendly. Slight anticlimax, but honestly, it didn’t feel like a loss. By that point the sky was bright blue, the day was unfolding gently, and it felt like we were already exactly where we needed to be. So instead, we rerouted. I grabbed lunch at Anardi, a Basque restaurant where I had prawns marinated so perfectly I could’ve ordered a second plate. Roly sat under the table like the sweetest little travel companion. After that, we jumped in a cab and headed to Barceloneta Beach, a place I’d spent time last summer, and somewhere I was excited to revisit, especially with Roly. The beach wasn’t crowded the way it is in peak season, which made it even better. Roly ran straight for the water, absolutely living his best life, swimming and splashing. I sat at a beach restaurant with a glass of wine, letting the sun warm my face while watching the waves and the people and the city just… exist. It felt grounding. A small, quiet moment of reflection before the next part of the journey. Honestly, it was the perfect way to end the trip. A Closing Reflection: Barcelona, Again But Different Coming back to Barcelona felt healing in a quiet way. The first time I was here, everything was overwhelming. I was physically present but emotionally elsewhere navigating dissociation, missing moments that should’ve felt joyful, and barely able to absorb where I was. This second visit felt like reclaiming the city for myself. I walked the same streets but felt entirely different in them. More grounded, more present, calmer, clearer. There were flashes of sadness remembering what I’d missed, but also gratitude. Returning allowed me to rewrite those memories with new ones that felt lighter and more aligned with who I am now. Barcelona gave me warmth, clarity, movement, connection, solitude, creativity, and pockets of joy stitched throughout the week. All of it mattered. Next stop: Valencia, a new city, new food, new beaches, new energy… and another chapter for me and my little co-pilot.

Crossing Into Pamplona on a Sunny Sunday The drive from San Sebastián to Pamplona was short, just over an hour, but honestly one of the most beautiful stretches I’ve seen so far on the route. The sun was out in full force, that perfect, warm November light and the mountains rose around the motorway like a painted backdrop.  I first heard about Pamplona from a food vendor I met in La Rochelle who sold Iberian ham. Most people know Pamplona for the Running of the Bulls San Fermín, which is every July. It’s a festival that brings thousands from all over the world to watch (or run!) a centuries-old tradition through the streets of Casco Viejo. But outside of festival season? The city is quiet, walkable, and a peaceful reset in between routes.  Where I Stayed: My First Aparthotel, Kora Kiliki  Pamplona was my first aparthotel stay of the entire European road trip, and oh my gosh, it changed everything.  Kora Kilikí is a modern, beautifully designed aparthotel in Lezkairu, one of Pamplona’s newest neighbourhoods. Think clean streets, young professionals walking dogs, trendy cafes with laptop-friendly terraces and fresh bakeries. The aparthotel blended: co-living energy co-working areas a full gym (my room was right next to it, perfect for accountability) a rooftop with incredible views your own private studio with a kitchen, balcony, and mountain views Kora Kilikí Manifesto  Our lifestyle and travel habits shape our understanding of the world. Some will cover hundreds of miles just to visit what is expected. And then, there are free spirits: people who live their lives in discovery and, in every trip, discover life itself. At Kora, we are inspired by them. We are a team of enthusiasts that don’t settle for the usual, but instead live up to our dream of creating spaces for those like us who don’t. Spaces designed not just to stay at, but for you to connect to people, to values, to the environment. Spaces where moments, ideas, and hopes are shared. To where you may arrive alone but feel embraced, where you may get lost only to find yourself. From where you may leave after one night or after a whole year, and either way, let your footprint remain, or let ours be imprinted on you. Because at Kora, the choice is yours. It summed up exactly why Pamplona, and this stay in particular, felt so grounding. After weeks of movement, Kora gave me something rare on the road: routine without restriction, comfort without stagnation, and a sense of belonging without obligation. Sunday Night in Pamplona: Bulls, Stone Streets & First Impressions On my first night in Pamplona, I headed straight out to explore the Old Town. Casco Viejo feels especially atmospheric at night and everything feels layered with history. It’s impossible to walk far without being reminded of Pamplona’s most famous tradition: the Running of the Bulls. You see it everywhere; silhouettes of bulls, statues frozen mid-charge, countdown clocks ticking towards the next San Fermín, even small religious niches built into walls, watching over the streets.  I passed the monument to Ernest Hemingway, who helped immortalise Pamplona through his writing, and later stood in front of the Ayuntamiento, imagining these same streets packed shoulder to shoulder every July.  It felt like seeing Pamplona in its in-between state not the festival version, but the real one. Calm, grounded, and deeply proud of its traditions. Sunshine, Mountains & A Calm Rhythm I woke up to bright blue skies, mountains lined up on the horizon and the city already moving below. Sunlight poured straight into the room, the kind that instantly puts you in a better mood. Roly took up his usual post by the balcony doors, alert and curious, surveying everything like he was clocking the neighbourhood. It felt like a proper reset moment. Clear-headed, grounded, and ready to get going. Exploring Pamplona by Day: Pintxos, Plazas & Local Energy I headed out from Lezkairu and made my way toward the centre, passing wide avenues that slowly tighten into older streets as you approach Casco Viejo.  Pamplona during the day is quietly buzzing. Locals popping into bakeries, friends meeting for coffee that turns into wine, pintxo bars already setting up for the afternoon crowd. I wandered through Plaza del Castillo, the city’s social heart, where cafes spill out onto the square and everyone seems to know someone. The beauty of Pamplona is that it doesn’t feel curated for visitors. It feels lived-in. Authentic. Pamplona might be best known for the festival once a year but the rest of the time, it’s all about balance. Market Stops, Seafood Obsessions & Cooking In Food shopping became part of my routine in Pamplona. The fish counters were full of giant prawns, fresh fillets and octopus. This is where staying in an aparthotel really paid off. Instead of hunting for a table at a restaurant, I took the best bits home. After days of eating out, cooking felt less like effort and more like a small luxury, grounding, satisfying, and exactly what I needed. It’s not the kind of moment that makes a flashy itinerary, but it’s the kind that stays with you. Good food, your own space, and that rare feeling of not just passing through a place, but briefly belonging. The Days That Followed: Work, Workouts & Wandering Pamplona isn’t a packed itinerary city. It’s more of a live well for a few days city. My routine became: Morning sunshine spilling into the room Roly’s walk through Lezkairu’s wide boulevards Hours of focused work from either my apartment or the communal areas Gym sessions that made me feel human again Evenings cooking or enjoying in a restaurant  Understanding Pamplona: The Neighbourhoods Pamplona is small but layered. Every area has its own personality: Casco Viejo (Old Town) I  Historic, full of pintxo bars and plazas. This is where the Running of the Bulls happens Primer Ensanche I Elegant streets, early 20th-century architecture, cafes, shops Segundo Ensanche I More modern, grid-style, calm and residential Lezkairu (where I stayed) I Modern, clean, young, safe, dog-friendly, full of cafes. A peaceful base only 10–15 minutes from Old Town. Iturrama I Trendy, student-friendly, sociable San Juan I  Local, lived-in, authentic Rochapea I Across the river, green and affordable Mendillorri I Spacious, park-filled, great for longer stays Eating, Exploring & Little Pamplona Highlights Pamplona’s food scene isn’t flashy, it’s authentic. A few stops I found worth making a detour for: El Horno de la Estafeta - good for grabbing pastries in the heart of the Old Town.  Akari Gastroteka - dishes that blend tradition and modern flair. Sit down for a relaxed lunch or early dinner with some wine.  Pescadería La Kontxa and Iruña Fruits - two great stops if you’re shopping for fresh produce or seafood.  Malafú a lively, modern restaurant. Across the city you’re never far from things worth seeing between bites. Strolling through the Old Town, you’ll find historic landmarks like the Plaza de Castillo, a central square that doubles as a favourite meeting point for locals and visitors alike.  Nearby, the Pamplona Cathedral and the old city walls and citadel. And of course, you can trace bits of the Running of the Bulls route through the cobbled streets around town. Even outside festival season it’s fascinating to see where history so vividly meets today’s pace of life.  Notes From The Road: Pamplona Edition Pamplona taught me that slower stops matter just as much as scenic ones, that comfort and routine can be a travel luxury, that good accommodation changes everything when you’re living on the road, that a city doesn’t need to be busy to be beautiful.

Crossing the Border Into San Sebastián, Spain  After a scenic drive from Biarritz, with a brief detour through the coastal town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, I crossed seamlessly into Spain. There’s no official border here, no checkpoints, no queues, just a subtle shift. French road signs became Spanish, sortie turned to salida, and the Basque coastline rolled on uninterrupted. The drive took under an hour, following winding coastal roads framed by green hills and ocean views. It was one of those routes that feels effortless, music playing, windows cracked open, sea air drifting in. Arrival in San Sebastián By early evening, I reached Hotel Avenida, my base for the next few days. It’s tucked into Antiguo, a leafy neighborhood near Ondarreta Beach, on the western edge of the city.  The area feels local and lived-in. Unlike the busier Old Town, Antiguo moves at its own pace. Mornings begin with the smell of fresh coffee and pastries wafting from cafes, while evenings are for walks along the promenade or watching the sunset from Monte Igueldo, the hill that rises just behind the hotel. One of the first things you notice here: Spaniards eat late. Dinner service doesn’t even begin until 7:30 or 8 PM, a big shift after weeks of French dining hours starting at 6PM. After a month of movement from Rouen to Rennes, Nantes to La Rochelle, Bordeaux to the beaches of Biarritz, it felt like an exciting new chapter to welcome to Spain. 🇪🇸 Wednesday. Sunrise, Old Town & Tapas Worth Traveling For I woke up to a golden sunrise spilling through my window, the kind that gives you instant gratitude. The mountains framed the horizon in soft blues and streaks of orange and yellow stretched across the sky. From my room at Hotel Avenida, I could see the sunlight slowly warming the rooftops of Antiguo, a spectacular start to the day. By mid-morning, I drove the 15 minutes into San Sebastián’s Old Town (Parte Vieja) a maze of narrow cobbled streets, and pintxo bars packed shoulder-to-shoulder. It’s one of the most historic quarters in the Basque Country, rebuilt in the 19th century after a fire and now alive with the buzz of daily life: locals chatting over wine, tourists taking photographs, and the smell of tapas drifting through the alleys. I wandered aimlessly for a while, taking it all in, the mix of old and new, classic facades beside sleek boutiques, and that unmistakable upbeat vibe of a city that loves to eat. Lunch was at La Cuchara de San Telmo. There’s no formal seating here, just a lively bar counter where you stand to order and eat. Behind it, an open kitchen buzzes with energy, plates sliding down the counter the moment they’re ready. I ordered duck, squid, and a local Basque cider. Each dish was perfectly cooked, and full of flavour. Standing there, surrounded by chatter, clinking glasses, and the scent of sizzling fresh food, I thought: this is Spain at its best; unpretentious, soulful, and utterly delicious.    After lunch, I wandered toward the port of San Sebastian, where boats were docked in the bay and mountains in view in the distance. It was a picturesque spot to take a call. Unfortunately, halfway through the call, the rain arrived, so I ducked into Atari Gastroteka, a cosy spot opposite the church. I ordered a glass of white wine and beef cheek tapas, the kind of comfort food that makes rain feel like a second thought. Two English travellers sitting nearby struck up conversation, and soon we were swapping travel stories over tapas.  When the rain eased, I wandered again through Old Town’s narrow streets and stumbled upon La Zaragozana Pastelería Heladería, where a waitress handed me a sample of Basque cheesecake. One bite and I was hooked. It was creamy, caramelised perfection. I ordered a full slice, grabbed a coffee, and set up there for an hour of work while the world buzzed outside. By evening, I headed back to the hotel for a work meeting and then headed out again for dinner now after the 7:30PM Spanish dinner schedule. I drove to Trikuharri Jatetxea, a cosy restaurant near my hotel. Dinner was grilled prawns followed by a beef dish, both beautifully cooked and full of that Basque depth of flavour. I returned to the hotel full, content, and ready to rest. The perfect end to a day that had everything: good food, good people, and a city that keeps unfolding new layers with every turn. Thursday. Beach Walks, Basque Tapas & Slowing Down The next morning, I stayed local, starting with a walk down to Playa de Ondarreta, the nearest beach to my hotel, about ten minutes downhill and then left from Hotel Avenida.  Roly trotted happily beside me, darting toward the shore to chase the tide. We walked the length of the beach, passing joggers, swimmers, and fellow dog owners out for their morning ritual. Roly, of course, couldn’t resist, he went straight in for a swim, tail wagging, completely in his element. By lunchtime, around 2PM (which here counts as early), I stopped at M. Martín Jatetxea, a local favourite just a short walk away. I ordered tapas, the cod was the standout perfectly seasoned and cooked to melt-in-the-mouth perfection. I set up my laptop and worked from there for the next couple of hours. Later, I returned to the hotel to catch up on more client work before venturing back out for dinner. By evening, the weather had turned; rain poured down in steady sheets, so I decided to drive back toward the same neighbourhood near M. Martín. I first stopped at another restaurant called Kapela Taberna, where the service was non existent. After waiting twenty minutes on a table with no sign of a drink order, I took it as a sign and left. A short walk around the corner brought me right back to M. Martín Jatetxea and honestly, on this occassion I didn’t mind doubling up. Their lunch had been so good, and the staff so lovely, that returning felt like the right choice. Dinner was octopus and a prawn dish, both beautifully cooked and paired with a glass of local wine. Wine here isn’t an indulgence; it’s a way of life, part of every meal, a Spanish ritual in itself. Locals sip slowly, savour the moment, and smile easily. There’s a lightness in the Basque way of living that feels very different from the British pace I’m used to. After dinner, I headed back to the hotel, full and content, the sound of rain still pattering against the windows. Another quietly perfect day in San Sebastián. Friday. Surf Vibes, Sunshine & Gros Energy Friday was all about exploring Gros, San Sebastián’s effortlessly cool surf neighbourhood across the river from the old town. It’s my kind of place; creative, laid-back, and full of that easy, go-with-the-flow energy that feels distinctly local. I parked near Zurriola Beach, the beating heart of Gros. A wide, golden stretch framed by surf schools, restaurants, and board shops. It’s the kind of place where mornings begin barefoot and wetsuits half-zipped. I wandered through the neighbourhood, including Peña y Goñi Kalea, Gros’ lively central street lined with tapas bars and boutiques, perfect for people-watching. By early afternoon, the sun was high and the vibe infectious. Roly and I made our way back to Zurriola Beach, where he darted in and out of the waves while surfers carved along the breaks. The mix of locals and travellers gave the area an effortless authenticity like everyone was moving to the same mellow rhythm. Later, I stopped at Bar Kbzon Haundi, a dog-friendly restaurant and bar just off the seafront, for a glass of local cider and a few tapas dishes. The food was incredible!! Basque cuisine just keeps outdoing itself. Every bite here feels like it’s been made with passion and pride. By sunset, Gros had completely won me over between the waves, the warmth, and that surf-town ease that makes you lose track of time in the best possible way. Saturday. Rain, Sunshine & Gros, Again Rain or not, I wasn’t about to waste a Saturday in San Sebastián. So, while the skies poured and the streets glistened, I bundled up Roly, and made a return to Gros, my new favourite neighbourhood and the perfect place to spend a day that refused to be ordinary. I wandered in and out of boutique shops including RAW Vintage, stacked with retro denim and streetwear gems while Roly made friends with everyone in sight. There’s an easy friendliness here, a city that feels stylish without trying. For lunch, I stopped at Apu Mar, a Peruvian restaurant with bold colours, neon energy, and an upbeat vibe that instantly lifted the grey skies. I ordered ceviche and a piña colada,a little sunshine in a bowl and glass. By the time I stepped back outside, the rain had passed and Gros was glowing in the sun. I walked along the Urumea River, the sunlight bouncing off the water and I stopped at a beauty salon for a manicure, a small reset after a full travel week. As evening settled, I ended the day at Aitana Donostia, tucked into the lively heart of Gros. I ordered pintxos and wine, as you do here, perfectly portioned bites of joy served with that warm, easy Basque hospitality.  Another heartwarming day. Gros really is that kind of place, even on a grey day, it finds a way to shine. Sunday. Sunshine, Cheesecake & the Last Glimpse of San Sebastián Sunday started with sunshine pouring through the window and mountain views stretching out in front of me. It felt calm and golden, one of those mornings you don’t want to rush. I sat in bed enjoying my leftover Basque cheesecake for breakfast (honestly, not a bad way to start the day) before heading down to the hotel garden. The garden at Hotel Avenida has this peaceful energy, and a pool that catches the light just right. Roly ran around the grass while I caught up on a bit of work from the outdoor seating, laptop open, sunshine on my face.  By midday, I loaded up the car, checked out, and decided to spend my last few hours near Ondarreta before the hour’s drive to Pamplona.  Lunch was at Restaurante Kalaberri, tucked into the streets near the beach. The food as always in San Sebastián, was outstanding. I ordered seafood tapas, steak and a glass of white wine, all perfectly fresh and full of flavour. It was the kind of meal that quietly wraps up a trip, simple, satisfying, and exactly what it needed to be. After lunch, I took one last slow walk through the streets, then it was time to hit the road. Roly in the back, music on, sunshine spilling through the windows. 💌 A Note from the Road San Sebastián was my first taste of Spain on this trip and what a welcome. From the calm mornings in Antiguo to surf afternoons in Gros, the vibe here is unhurried but full of life. Meals stretch long, wine flows easily, and people engage and talk to you. I loved the contrast of it all, the golden light, the sea air, the balance between city buzz and beach calm. Every corner felt like it belonged to someone who genuinely enjoys where they live. It reminded me why I chose this journey in the first place: to slow down, to savour, to keep discovering places that make you feel something. Spain already feels different, warmer, slower, louder in the best way. And after a week in San Sebastián, I’m ready for the road ahead. Next stop: Pamplona.