La Rochelle, France: Sea Air, Slow Living & a Little Sunshine Between Showers

Tuesday. Arrival in the Rain

Leaving Nantes behind, I drove southwest toward La Rochelle, a two hour route that gradually traded urban traffic for stretches of open countryside and salty coastal air. My Airbnb was tucked away on Rue des Gonthières, in a quiet residential pocket near Saint-Éloi, about a 25-minute walk from the centre.

By evening, the sky opened up with torrential rain pounding the streets that made unloading the car a small adventure in itself. I took Roly for a quick (and very wet) loop around the block before retreating back inside for warmth and a takeaway dinner from a nearby Chinese restaurant called Asian food.

Wednesday. Markets, Pancakes & Cooking Again

The next morning the weather redeemed itself with blue breaks in the clouds, sunlight spilling over the rooftops. Roly and I set out on foot toward the city centre, passing boulangeries and Parc Charruyer, where trees arched over winding paths and the park buzzed gently with runners and dog walkers.

I started the day at Palem Café, a bright, minimalist brunch spot near Place de Verdun. I ordered bacon, eggs, pancakes with maple syrup, and a chai latte, the kind of breakfast that feels like a small reward after a long walk. I sat out on the terrace with the other dog owners (since dogs aren’t allowed inside). The air felt fresh, and it was one of those unhurried mornings.

After breakfast, we wandered through Le Marché Central, La Rochelle’s daily covered market in the heart of town. Inside, locals bartered cheerfully over crates of oysters, towers of cheese, meats, fish and glossy vegetables. I filled my basket with garlic, spinach, ham, seabass, smoked salmon, steak, lots of vegetables, dried mango, and baguettes.

Back at the Airbnb, I worked through the afternoon, then cooked dinner, seabass with potatoes, spinach, and bread. After a week of eating out in Nantes, the chance to cook again felt grounding, a return to small, healthy rituals.

Thursday. Storms, Stillness & WFH

Thursday rolled in grey and gusty, the kind of Atlantic weather that rearranges your plans. I stayed in, laptop open, Roly curled up on the bed as wind rattled the shutters. It wasn’t an exciting day, but it was peaceful. These kind of days remind me that digital nomad life isn’t always adventure; sometimes it’s just life, lived elsewhere.

Friday. Mussels, Sea Air & Sunset Drinks

By Friday the skies cleared again, and La Rochelle returned to postcard form. I wandered back toward the central market to pick up some more supplies before leaving the next day.

I had lunch at Le P'tit Amiral and enjoyed mussels in wine and cheese sauce, perfectly coastal and utterly delicious.

Roly and I strolled the Vieux Port, La Rochelle’s harbour, lined with pastel façades and outdoor terraces filled with chatter. We followed the waterfront past the Tour de la Chaîne and Tour Saint-Nicolas, the twin medieval towers that once guarded the entrance to the port, and continued to the nearby Plage de la Concurrence for a breezy beach walk.

That evening, I met Julien, a local I’d been chatting with, for harbour drinks and tapas. We ended up at Rue St Jean du Pérot, the lively strip of bars and restaurants by the port, and tucked into small plates over wine. Good company and conversation plus the glow of the port lights on the water made it the kind of easy, happy Friday night that travel gifts you when you least expect it.

Where to Eat & Drink in La Rochelle

Think seafood straight off the boats, and cosy bistros.

• Palem Café – A minimalist brunch dream near Place de Verdun. The pancakes, maple syrup, and chai latte combo is the morning move.
• Le P’tit Amiral – Mussels in wine and cheese sauce that feel like a love letter to the Atlantic. A must for a long, lazy lunch.
• Le Comptoir Saoufé – Lively oyster and seafood bar by the harbour. Order a glass of wine and settle in for the view.
• La Storia – Tucked behind a courtyard gate, this Italian gem is easy to miss but absolutely worth finding. Perfect pasta, relaxed setting, and warm service.
• Ernest Glacier – Local ice cream shop with inventive flavours (the salted caramel is next level). Ideal for a post-dinner harbour stroll.
• Rue St Jean du Pérot – Not a single venue, but the street to head for food and drinks. Buzzing terraces, tapas, wine, and all the people-watching you could want.
• Le Jardin du Marché – Refined, local dining tucked behind the central market. Fresh seafood, seasonal vegetables, and perfectly plated mains.
• Papy Mougeot – Chic French bistro with a wine list that encourages lingering. Enjoy the steak.
• Le Comptoir de Walter – Simple, stylish, and all about seasonal produce. The sort of place locals actually recommend to their friends.

💌 A Note from the Road

La Rochelle was a mix of rain-soaked mornings, breezy harbours, and calm coastal afternoons. The weather wasn’t on my side for much of the week, and I didn’t get to explore as much as I’d hoped, but maybe that was the point.

This stop offered a slower pace, market mornings, and home-cooked dinners. While most days were quiet, the final night with good company, harbour lights, and laughter over wine reminded me that every destination has its moment.

Now, it’s time for the next route.

Next stop: Bordeaux.