Rennes, France. Canal Vibes, Courtyard Drinks & a Sea Turtle Tattoo

Rennes, France. Where Canals Meet Creativity

Leaving Rouen behind, I drove south toward Rennes which took around 4 hours. Rennes is a city I knew little about but felt instantly drawn to. Why? Because the moment I arrived, I could sense its creative pulse; the mix of art, energy, and ease that gives it character. I knew I’d be here for a week, and I couldn’t wait to see what lay beneath the surface.

The drive had been long but pulling up outside my Airbnb felt like a small victory. The flat was trendy; open-plan, filled with vinyls, plants, and art with a patio spilling with greenery, outdoor furniture and quirky fixtures. The canal was just around the corner, catching the last of the evening light. 

Roly stretched out on the cool floor, tail thumping gently as if to say, we made it. I unpacked a few bits from the car, and watched the light fade through the tall windows. That sweet, still moment between arrival and adventure. 

That night, I ordered Indian takeaway from Délice de India, very yummy and exactly what a travel day deserves.

Saturday. Markets, Art & Ink

Saturday morning began at Marché des Lices, Rennes’ famous weekend market lined with stalls overflowing with cheese, bread, flowers, and chatter. I wandered through with a coffee in hand, picking up local cheese and a bottle of red wine, before stopping for lunch at Crêperie au Marché des Lices.

Here, crêpes are made with buckwheat flour, giving them that distinctive Brittany flavour, savoury, and perfect with cider. I ordered one with ham and melted cheese and sat in the patio sun surrounded by locals enjoying their weekend ritual.

After lunch, Roly and I wandered along the Arsenal-Redon Canal, the kind of place where life just happens with cyclists and runners whizzing past, dogs chasing sticks, couples sharing wine on the grass. It reminded me of Hackney Wick back home in London. Creative, lived-in, and full of easy charm.

Later that afternoon, I visited the La Criée Centre d’Art Contemporain, a small but striking exhibition space that captures Rennes’ creative heartbeat. Afterwards, I stopped at La Tête Enfarinée for baguettes and cakes, and picked up jambon and market goods from Marché Central to cook later. 

A Turtle & A Twist

As the sun dipped, the day took a spontaneous turn. I walked into Cœur d’Encre, a small tattoo studio filled with plants, vinyl, and warm light, and walked out with a sea turtle on my arm, a symbol of intuition, emotional depth, and the ability to navigate life’s challenges.

And as if fate wanted to add a plot twist, Cédric, the Frenchman I met in Rouen, came to visit me in Rennes. He got a match tattoo, a small flame. Somehow, it felt poetic; two different symbols.

Courtyard Drinks & Unplanned Conversations

That evening, we went to La Piste, an open-air bar with a laid-back courtyard vibe.

We ordered drinks and ended up joining two women from Brittany who invited us to their table. We spent hours chatting, laughing, and swapping stories, one of those spontaneous, unscripted nights that make travel feel effortlessly alive.

Sunday. Seafood & Sunshine at Chez Brume

Lunch at Chez Brume was perfection; a refined bistro with a sunny terrace serving seafood. I had a selection of their tasting dishes, followed by pavlova, and a glass of prosecco.

As we ate, the Rennes Marathon passed by, a blur of runners, and clapping, turning lunch into a front-row seat to local life.

After lunch, we wandered through the Sunday flea market, a maze of vintage books, art, and antiques that spilled into the nearby streets. We ended the day with dinner at La Chope, where I had steak frites, a pafita roll, and an Aperol Spritz to close out the weekend perfectly.

Monday. Canal Loops & Quiet Moments

Monday morning began with a long canal walk. Roly trotted beside me while the city slowly stirred with runners, cyclists, and locals walking to work with coffee in hand. 

In the afternoon, I wandered to Marché Central, picking up sausages, steak, and a baguette to cook at home, then spent the rest of the day working from the airbnb. 

A working Monday but a deeply content one.

Tuesday. Canal Walks & Roly’s EU Passport

On Tuesday, I drove to Vetovie Fougères vétérinaire in Rennes to get Roly’s EU pet passport, one of those important admin steps for anyone travelling long-term through Europe with a dog.

The vet was fantastic, friendly, professional, and even English-speaking, which made everything simple. They registered Roly, carried out a routine health check, and issued his French (EU) passport on the spot.

Total cost: around $60 for the check-up, registration, and the EU passport.

The EU passport is a game-changer for pet travel. It replaces the need for constant vet visits and new health certificates at each border. With it, Roly can now travel freely between EU countries for the next year as long as his rabies vaccination stays valid.

It’s one of those small but huge wins for life on the road, less paperwork, more adventure.

Dinner that night was at PHO ANH EM, a Vietnamese restaurant serving pho, noodles, and fresh rolls bursting with flavour. 

Wednesday &Thursday. Work, Walks & Pancake Farewell

Not every day on the road is about exploration, and that’s exactly what makes it real. Wednesday was spent working from the Airbnb, and Roly and I took our usual 45-minute walk along the Arsenal-Redon Canal in the afternoon. The sun was shining, the water shimmered, and the city moved with that charm that defines Rennes.

That evening, I cooked the sirloin steak I’d picked up from the market earlier in the week, which was tender, and perfect with a glass of red wine.

The next morning came with that bittersweet feeling of packing up and moving on. Leaving days are equal parts chaos and excitement.

Before hitting the road, I stopped at Oh My Biche, a dog-friendly café that doubles as a co-working spot. I ordered pancakes with maple syrup, bacon, and scrambled eggs, and it absolutely hit the spot. It was the perfect send-off.

Where to Eat & Drink

• Crêperie au Marché des Lices – Buckwheat crepes and local cider
• Oh My Biche – Dog-friendly café and co-working gem, and the best brunch in town
• Chez Brume – Refined yet relaxed bistro serving fresh seafood
• Pho Anh Em – Fragrant Vietnamese pho, noodles, and spring rolls 
• La Cavale – Cosy bistro with natural wines and modern French plates
• L’AOC – Seasonal, elevated French dishes using regional ingredients in a relaxed setting.
• Superkraft – Bistro-meets-bar with great coffee by day and creative cocktails by night.
• Origines Restaurant-Bar-Microbrasserie – Industrial-style eatery pairing craft beer with generous, flavourful dishes.
• Le Bacchus – Wine bar and bistro with live jazz, candlelight, and a romantic edge.
• Le Tournesol – Small, friendly wine bar perfect for easy evenings and good conversation.

Why Rennes Stuck With Me

Rennes has a spark that’s hard to define. What I loved most is how liveable it feels. You can walk almost everywhere, pick up a baguette and flowers from the market, stop for wine at a bar you didn’t plan to visit, and end the day by the canal with locals who feel more like neighbours.

Rennes has character stitched into its daily life.It wasn’t the biggest city, the most dramatic, or the flashiest stop on my route. But it was the one that felt the most real; creative, social, and full of heart. For now, it’s my favourite chapter on this journey.

Now, it’s time for the next route.

Next stop: Nantes.