San Sebastián, Spain: Pintxos, Sea Breezes & Slow Living by the Bay

Crossing the Border Into San Sebastián, Spain 

After a scenic drive from Biarritz, with a brief detour through the coastal town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, I crossed seamlessly into Spain. There’s no official border here, no checkpoints, no queues, just a subtle shift. French road signs became Spanish, sortie turned to salida, and the Basque coastline rolled on uninterrupted.

The drive took under an hour, following winding coastal roads framed by green hills and ocean views. It was one of those routes that feels effortless, music playing, windows cracked open, sea air drifting in.

Arrival in San Sebastián

By early evening, I reached Hotel Avenida, my base for the next few days. It’s tucked into Antiguo, a leafy neighborhood near Ondarreta Beach, on the western edge of the city. 

The area feels local and lived-in. Unlike the busier Old Town, Antiguo moves at its own pace. Mornings begin with the smell of fresh coffee and pastries wafting from cafes, while evenings are for walks along the promenade or watching the sunset from Monte Igueldo, the hill that rises just behind the hotel.

One of the first things you notice here: Spaniards eat late. Dinner service doesn’t even begin until 7:30 or 8 PM, a big shift after weeks of French dining hours starting at 6PM.

After a month of movement from Rouen to Rennes, Nantes to La Rochelle, Bordeaux to the beaches of Biarritz, it felt like an exciting new chapter to welcome to Spain. 🇪🇸

Wednesday. Sunrise, Old Town & Tapas Worth Traveling For

I woke up to a golden sunrise spilling through my window, the kind that gives you instant gratitude. The mountains framed the horizon in soft blues and streaks of orange and yellow stretched across the sky. From my room at Hotel Avenida, I could see the sunlight slowly warming the rooftops of Antiguo, a spectacular start to the day.

By mid-morning, I drove the 15 minutes into San Sebastián’s Old Town (Parte Vieja) a maze of narrow cobbled streets, and pintxo bars packed shoulder-to-shoulder. It’s one of the most historic quarters in the Basque Country, rebuilt in the 19th century after a fire and now alive with the buzz of daily life: locals chatting over wine, tourists taking photographs, and the smell of tapas drifting through the alleys.

I wandered aimlessly for a while, taking it all in, the mix of old and new, classic facades beside sleek boutiques, and that unmistakable upbeat vibe of a city that loves to eat.

Lunch was at La Cuchara de San Telmo. There’s no formal seating here, just a lively bar counter where you stand to order and eat. Behind it, an open kitchen buzzes with energy, plates sliding down the counter the moment they’re ready.

I ordered duck, squid, and a local Basque cider. Each dish was perfectly cooked, and full of flavour. Standing there, surrounded by chatter, clinking glasses, and the scent of sizzling fresh food, I thought: this is Spain at its best; unpretentious, soulful, and utterly delicious.   

After lunch, I wandered toward the port of San Sebastian, where boats were docked in the bay and mountains in view in the distance. It was a picturesque spot to take a call. Unfortunately, halfway through the call, the rain arrived, so I ducked into Atari Gastroteka, a cosy spot opposite the church. I ordered a glass of white wine and beef cheek tapas, the kind of comfort food that makes rain feel like a second thought. Two English travellers sitting nearby struck up conversation, and soon we were swapping travel stories over tapas. 

When the rain eased, I wandered again through Old Town’s narrow streets and stumbled upon La Zaragozana Pastelería Heladería, where a waitress handed me a sample of Basque cheesecake. One bite and I was hooked. It was creamy, caramelised perfection. I ordered a full slice, grabbed a coffee, and set up there for an hour of work while the world buzzed outside.

By evening, I headed back to the hotel for a work meeting and then headed out again for dinner now after the 7:30PM Spanish dinner schedule. I drove to Trikuharri Jatetxea, a cosy restaurant near my hotel. Dinner was grilled prawns followed by a beef dish, both beautifully cooked and full of that Basque depth of flavour.

I returned to the hotel full, content, and ready to rest. The perfect end to a day that had everything: good food, good people, and a city that keeps unfolding new layers with every turn.

Thursday. Beach Walks, Basque Tapas & Slowing Down

The next morning, I stayed local, starting with a walk down to Playa de Ondarreta, the nearest beach to my hotel, about ten minutes downhill and then left from Hotel Avenida. 

Roly trotted happily beside me, darting toward the shore to chase the tide. We walked the length of the beach, passing joggers, swimmers, and fellow dog owners out for their morning ritual. Roly, of course, couldn’t resist, he went straight in for a swim, tail wagging, completely in his element.

By lunchtime, around 2PM (which here counts as early), I stopped at M. Martín Jatetxea, a local favourite just a short walk away. I ordered tapas, the cod was the standout perfectly seasoned and cooked to melt-in-the-mouth perfection. I set up my laptop and worked from there for the next couple of hours.

Later, I returned to the hotel to catch up on more client work before venturing back out for dinner. By evening, the weather had turned; rain poured down in steady sheets, so I decided to drive back toward the same neighbourhood near M. Martín. I first stopped at another restaurant called Kapela Taberna, where the service was non existent. After waiting twenty minutes on a table with no sign of a drink order, I took it as a sign and left.

A short walk around the corner brought me right back to M. Martín Jatetxea and honestly, on this occassion I didn’t mind doubling up. Their lunch had been so good, and the staff so lovely, that returning felt like the right choice.

Dinner was octopus and a prawn dish, both beautifully cooked and paired with a glass of local wine. Wine here isn’t an indulgence; it’s a way of life, part of every meal, a Spanish ritual in itself. Locals sip slowly, savour the moment, and smile easily. There’s a lightness in the Basque way of living that feels very different from the British pace I’m used to.

After dinner, I headed back to the hotel, full and content, the sound of rain still pattering against the windows. Another quietly perfect day in San Sebastián.

Friday. Surf Vibes, Sunshine & Gros Energy

Friday was all about exploring Gros, San Sebastián’s effortlessly cool surf neighbourhood across the river from the old town. It’s my kind of place; creative, laid-back, and full of that easy, go-with-the-flow energy that feels distinctly local.

I parked near Zurriola Beach, the beating heart of Gros. A wide, golden stretch framed by surf schools, restaurants, and board shops. It’s the kind of place where mornings begin barefoot and wetsuits half-zipped.

I wandered through the neighbourhood, including Peña y Goñi Kalea, Gros’ lively central street lined with tapas bars and boutiques, perfect for people-watching.

By early afternoon, the sun was high and the vibe infectious. Roly and I made our way back to Zurriola Beach, where he darted in and out of the waves while surfers carved along the breaks. The mix of locals and travellers gave the area an effortless authenticity like everyone was moving to the same mellow rhythm.

Later, I stopped at Bar Kbzon Haundi, a dog-friendly restaurant and bar just off the seafront, for a glass of local cider and a few tapas dishes. The food was incredible!! Basque cuisine just keeps outdoing itself. Every bite here feels like it’s been made with passion and pride.

By sunset, Gros had completely won me over between the waves, the warmth, and that surf-town ease that makes you lose track of time in the best possible way.

Saturday. Rain, Sunshine & Gros, Again

Rain or not, I wasn’t about to waste a Saturday in San Sebastián. So, while the skies poured and the streets glistened, I bundled up Roly, and made a return to Gros, my new favourite neighbourhood and the perfect place to spend a day that refused to be ordinary.

I wandered in and out of boutique shops including RAW Vintage, stacked with retro denim and streetwear gems while Roly made friends with everyone in sight. There’s an easy friendliness here, a city that feels stylish without trying.

For lunch, I stopped at Apu Mar, a Peruvian restaurant with bold colours, neon energy, and an upbeat vibe that instantly lifted the grey skies. I ordered ceviche and a piña colada,a little sunshine in a bowl and glass.

By the time I stepped back outside, the rain had passed and Gros was glowing in the sun. I walked along the Urumea River, the sunlight bouncing off the water and I stopped at a beauty salon for a manicure, a small reset after a full travel week.

As evening settled, I ended the day at Aitana Donostia, tucked into the lively heart of Gros. I ordered pintxos and wine, as you do here, perfectly portioned bites of joy served with that warm, easy Basque hospitality. 

Another heartwarming day. Gros really is that kind of place, even on a grey day, it finds a way to shine.

Sunday. Sunshine, Cheesecake & the Last Glimpse of San Sebastián

Sunday started with sunshine pouring through the window and mountain views stretching out in front of me. It felt calm and golden, one of those mornings you don’t want to rush. I sat in bed enjoying my leftover Basque cheesecake for breakfast (honestly, not a bad way to start the day) before heading down to the hotel garden.

The garden at Hotel Avenida has this peaceful energy, and a pool that catches the light just right. Roly ran around the grass while I caught up on a bit of work from the outdoor seating, laptop open, sunshine on my face. 

By midday, I loaded up the car, checked out, and decided to spend my last few hours near Ondarreta before the hour’s drive to Pamplona. 

Lunch was at Restaurante Kalaberri, tucked into the streets near the beach. The food as always in San Sebastián, was outstanding. I ordered seafood tapas, steak and a glass of white wine, all perfectly fresh and full of flavour. It was the kind of meal that quietly wraps up a trip, simple, satisfying, and exactly what it needed to be.

After lunch, I took one last slow walk through the streets, then it was time to hit the road. Roly in the back, music on, sunshine spilling through the windows.

💌 A Note from the Road

San Sebastián was my first taste of Spain on this trip and what a welcome. From the calm mornings in Antiguo to surf afternoons in Gros, the vibe here is unhurried but full of life. Meals stretch long, wine flows easily, and people engage and talk to you.

I loved the contrast of it all, the golden light, the sea air, the balance between city buzz and beach calm. Every corner felt like it belonged to someone who genuinely enjoys where they live.

It reminded me why I chose this journey in the first place: to slow down, to savour, to keep discovering places that make you feel something.

Spain already feels different, warmer, slower, louder in the best way. And after a week in San Sebastián, I’m ready for the road ahead.

Next stop: Pamplona.