Rouen, France: Cathedrals, Cliffs & a French Kiss

The Arrival

Rouen was never meant to be an eight-day stop but that’s the thing about the places that surprise you. They quietly convince you to stay longer.

After the drive from Calais, I arrived to a city that looked like a painting with half-timbered houses, gothic spires, cobbled streets that curve just enough to make you wonder what’s around the corner. My Airbnb on 31 Rue du Fardeau had everything a traveller dreams of: high ceilings, art-filled walls, colourful furnishings, and morning light pouring through tall windows.

My car was tucked neatly away at the Opéra car park just five minutes away, and I had everything I needed; coffee, comfort, and a city waiting to be explored.

If you’re travelling Europe long-term by car, Rouen is the kind of base that makes sense. A week in one place gives you space to breathe, explore, and still feel the pull of the road ahead.

Why Rouen Works

Rouen has an easy rhythm. It’s historic but not stuck in the past, beautiful but lived in, romantic without trying too hard.

It’s where Gothic cathedrals meet indie cafés, and history meets small daily pleasures. A warm croissant, a rain shower over cobblestones, a late-night glass of wine with live music in the background.

It’s also a very dog-friendly city in France. Roly was welcomed everywhere, cafés, shops, even restaurants usually with a smile and a water bowl.

The Cafés & Morning Rituals

Mornings began at Café Augustin, a minute from my apartment. It’s an eclectic little spot with large windows perfect for people-watching. I'd also enjoy a dirty chai latte at Columbus Café, which was also close by. 

For other great café stops, Prélude Café, Bibelot, and Madame A are beautiful choices for coffee and brunch. Café Crème and Couleur Café bring that easy French café charm.

History & Hidden Corners

Rouen’s history runs deep. It’s where Joan of Arc met her fate, and where Monet painted the same cathedral façade over and over to capture its changing light.

Walking through the city is like flipping between centuries

• Cathédrale Notre-Dame towers over the old town, all stone lace and shadow.
• The Gros-Horloge, a golden clock suspended above a cobbled street, still ticks as it has for hundreds of years.
• Rue Eau-de-Robec is one of Rouen’s prettiest streets, half-timbered houses, small canals, and vintage shops.

For art lovers, stop by Hangar 107 for modern exhibitions, or L’Établi for local contemporary pieces. And if you love vinyl or vintage, Aesthetic Circle Record Shop is worth a browse.

Sunday in Rouen. Markets & Quiet Streets

Sunday in France has its own tempo, calm, simple, almost sacred. In Rouen, that means the city slows to a whisper.

Most shops and restaurants close completely on Sunday and Monday, and the few that open typically shut around 1:30 PM including the main Marché Saint-Marc.

The food market itself is worth the early start with stalls piled with cheese, meats, fish, vegetables, fruits, and fresh bread. Locals chatting and dogs weaving through the crowd like regulars. It’s the perfect glimpse of everyday French life.

By early afternoon, the city empties. Streets fall quiet, and the sound of church bells replaces traffic. It’s oddly soothing, a reminder to slow down too.

That evening, I wandered through the old town and ended the day with a crepe and three gelato toppings from Amorino. Sweet, simple perfection.

The Day Trip: Étretat Cliffs

When the sun broke through later in the week, I decided to make the 1.5-hour drive from Rouen to Étretat, one of Normandy’s most breathtaking coastal towns.

The route winds through fields and villages before the sea appears suddenly, framed by white chalk cliffs. I stopped first at La Flottille, a cosy dog-friendly restaurant a short walk from the beach. The smell of butter, garlic, and cream greets you instantly. I ordered mussels in cream sauce which were rich, delicate, and easily a 10/10.

After lunch, Roly and I explored the cobbled beach, framed by breathtaking cliffs on both sides. Roly paddled in the sea while I watched the waves hit the rocks, sunlight turning everything gold.

We climbed Falaise d’Aval as sunset hit, the kind of view that reminds you why you travel. Standing there, surrounded by cliffs and coves, with Roly beside me and the sea stretching endlessly ahead, everything felt right.

A French Date & Live Music

Somewhere between cathedral strolls and coastal hikes, I met Cédric. We met for a walk in the Botanical Gardens, which turned out not to be dog-friendly, but we made it work, walking and talking in a different area, and heading to the city in the evening for dinner at Zhoushi, fresh sushi and then Victorine Piano Bar across the road.

Victorine is Rouen’s hidden gem, with a grand piano at the centre, cosy décor, and sophistication. I ordered a local Sauvignon, he ordered red wine, and for a few hours, everything was just music and conversation.

When we left, the cobbled streets were quiet, the cathedral glowing softly in the distance. And there, under the Rouen moon, we shared a kiss, one of those perfectly cinematic moments you can’t plan, only live.

A night later, I returned to Victorine Piano Bar for live jazz, oysters, and champagne. The show was meant to be at its sister bar, Victorine Jazz Bar, but after flooding, it moved back here. It was another fun filled night. 

The Food Scene

Rouen’s food scene is surprisingly rich for its size. Highlights include:

• Navio — Modern French, where I had perfectly cooked medium-rare beef with caramelised vegetables.
• Hanoï Délice — Vietnamese comfort food perfect on a rainy day.
• Zhoushi — Fresh sushi made in front of you.
• La Pêcherie — Seafood lovers, take note.
• Listo — Ecuadorian dishes full of colour and flavour.
• Bân Thaï and Bambou — for a taste of Asia.
• Le Kitsch, Lé Là, and Tempo — modern French done beautifully.
• Amorino — Crepes and gelato piled high (mandatory).
• La Pasta Tinto — A welcoming Italian with gluten-free options and friendly staff. Roly even got water and ham. Pure dog-hospitality perfection.

Rouen has that lovely French habit of slowing you down with food. You sit, savour, and stay longer than you meant to.

Nightlife & Local Spots

For drinks, Le Charleston and L’Estaminet Bières & Cocktails are both fantastic, full of character and great music. Victorine Piano Bar and Victorine Jazz & Wine offer a more elegant vibe, while The Sound of the Horn is perfect for a laid-back glass.

The Journey Onwards

On my last morning, I checked out at 11am. One final look at the space that had been home for eight days. Before the long drive to Rennes, I stopped at La Pasta Tinto for lunch and ordered pasta with shellfish, and Roly was treated like a king with a full bowl of ham from the staff. The restaurant filled up quickly with locals, always the best sign.

Following a good meal, a happy dog, and a full heart we were now ready to travel onwards to Rennes.

Why Rouen Stayed With Me

Rouen feels like a city in balance. History without heaviness. Charm without cliché. The kind of place that doesn’t demand attention but quietly captures it.

It’s full of small joys, cafés with character, friendly faces, dogs at every table, and light that hits the cobblestones just right.

This was my first chapter in my European road trip and I couldn’t have asked for a better beginning.

Merci, Rouen. Next stop, Rennes.