Leaving Bordeaux behind, I drove three hours southwest to Anglet, a coastal gem nestled between Bayonne and Biarritz, just 40 minutes from the Spanish border.
I arrived at my Airbnb in Anglet, a stylish ground-floor apartment with a private terrace, secure parking, and modern coastal décor. Think warm lighting, soft neutrals, and bohemian touches that make it feel instantly like home.
Anglet has this calm, quietly cool energy with wide beaches, independent surf shops, and locals who seem to have mastered the art of balance. It’s coastal living with a creative edge. The perfect last French stop before I head into Spain.
Friday. Arrival in Anglet
After the drive, I took Roly for a short walk around the block, to stretch our legs. Dinner was a low-key takeaway night, a chance to reset after the drive and settle into the new space.
Saturday. Harbour Lunch & Beach Walks
Saturday was for exploring. I drove into Biarritz’s Old Harbour, and explored the cobbled streets that wind between quirky boutiques, surf shops, lively restaurants and cafés.
I had lunch at Chistera et Coquillages, a local favourite serving French–Basque tapas. I ordered two dishes; steak and squid, both marinated and cooked to perfection. After lunch, Roly and I walked down to Plage du Port Vieux, a small, sheltered cove tucked between cliffs, and then continued along the path to Grande Plage, the city’s main beach. He wasted no time jumping in for a swim while I sat and watched the waves roll in.
On the walk back, I stopped at Crêperie Bleue de Toi for a post-lunch crêpe, then wandered through Biarritz’s maze of independent shops before heading back to Anglet. The rest of the day was chilled with some client work, Netflix (hello Selling Sunset), and an easy night in.
Sunday. Market Finds & Sunshine
Sunday morning started at Marché de Quintaou, Anglet’s weekly food market. It's a lively maze of stalls where locals greet vendors by name and the air is filled with the smell of freshly cooked food and cheerful chatter.
I wandered between stalls piled high with local produce, tasting cheese, cured meats, and a baguette, trading smiles and small talk with stall owners who kindly overlooked my broken French.
It was the perfect start to the day before heading back to the Airbnb. I spent the afternoon catching up on client work from the terrace. The sun was out, music played softly in the background, and for a few hours, everything just felt still.
Monday. A Date to Remember
Monday was mostly a workday; laptop, sunshine, terrace, repeat until evening rolled around. I met Antoine, a Canadian from Quebec, along the Côte des Basques beachfront.
We wandered aimlessly through Biarritz’s cobbled streets, talking about travel, life, and everything in between, before finding a wine bar tucked into a narrow lane. The kind of spot that feels like it’s been there forever, dimly lit, warm, and full of character.
Dinner was at Haragia, a steakhouse where they bring the cut of meat to your table before cooking it to perfection. Antoine and I shared a bottle of white, medium-rare steak, and conversation that flowed easily into laughter. Roly got a few bites of steak too (of course).
By the end of the evening, we’d made friends with the owner and two guys there on business. Once everyone had finished their meals, we all ended up at the bar next door to continue the night with more drinks, more stories, more laughter.
It was one of those nights that reminded me why I love to travel, the serendipity of it all: new places, great food, and the kind of connection you can’t plan for.
Tuesday. Sunshine, Errands & a Coastal Farewell
Check-out day began with a few practical errands. First stop: an Amazon collection box in town (a lifesaver when you’re constantly on the move), followed by Anglet Auto Service Motrio, where the team kindly topped up my car oil ahead of the next leg of the journey. Quick, friendly, and genuinely helpful.
With a few hours to spare before my check-in across the border, I drove to Plage d’Anglet. The weather couldn’t have been better, 23°C, full sunshine, and that crisp breeze that makes you want to linger just a little longer.
Roly splashed in the surf, tail wagging, while I sat back on the sand, letting the sound of the ocean melt away the last of my to-do list. There’s something about the Atlantic that feels cleansing; wild, rhythmic, and steady all at once.
Along the promenade, I stopped for lunch at À Table, a local spot with a sunny terrace and the kind of friendly owner who makes you feel instantly at home. I ordered a creamy prawn risotto topped with melted cheese, my “last lunch in France” moment and ended up chatting with the owner about my year-long European road trip. She was fascinated and insisted I visit Saint-Jean-de-Luz, just 30 minutes drive south, calling it “the perfect blend of France and Spain.”
A Stop in Saint-Jean-de-Luz
I took the restaurant owners advice, and she was right. The short drive from Biarritz to Saint-Jean-de-Luz felt like crossing between worlds. The scenery shifted subtly between French charm giving way to Spanish architecture.
In Saint-Jean-de-Luz, I wandered through boutiques, bakeries, and shops before finding myself at the harbour, where I grabbed a table at Le Suisse Brasserie & Café. With my laptop open and the sun on my face, I caught up on work emails, a perfect balance of work and wander.
Onward to Spain
From Saint-Jean-de-Luz, it was a smooth half-hour drive into San Sebastián. There's no border crossings, no passport checks, just a shift in language and rhythm as France faded quietly into Spain. That’s the beauty of the Schengen Agreement, it allows free movement across most of Europe, so driving from France into Spain feels as seamless as crossing into a neighbouring town. One minute you’re hearing bonjour, the next it’s hola.
There was something poetic about how simple it was. One continuous coastline, one endless sense of movement.
💌 Why I Loved Biarritz (and Anglet)
Biarritz and Anglet were everything I needed to close out my month in France with coastal calm, surf energy, beach walks, market mornings, and unexpected connections over wine.
This part of France was both grounding and alive, elegant yet laid-back, where surfboards lean against art galleries, and strangers still stop to say bonjour.
As I drove toward Spain, I felt deeply grateful. This was the perfect finale to the northern chapter of my French route. Though I’ll return to explore the south later, this stretch of coastline will always mark the true beginning of the adventure.
Merci beaucoup, France. Now onto the next route San Sebastián. 🇪🇸
Saturday. Arrival in Bordeaux
I arrived in Bordeaux on a Saturday afternoon around 2:30PM after a smooth three-hour drive from La Rochelle. My Airbnb was perfectly placed in Chartrons, the city’s creative heart at Rue Ramonet, complete with a hot tub and that understated cool that instantly makes you think, yep, I could live here.
As luck would have it, I’d landed right in the middle of La Fête du Vin Nouveau et de la Brocante, a street festival celebrating wine, food, vintage finds, and music. The whole neighbourhood was buzzing: live bands on every corner, the scent of food drifting through the air, and locals in their most stylish “just threw this on” outfits wove through the crowd.
Before I could dive into the fun, there was the small matter of check-in. With the roads closed for the festival, I had to park a few streets away and make several luggage runs through the crowd with Roly trotting the streets like he already owned the place. Once everything was inside the airbnb, I moved the car to Citi Parking (five minutes away), and returned to join the party.
The streets were alive wirh music drifting between cafés, bars, restaurants and laughter spilling from every corner. I wandered through the stalls, watching locals dance and chat, wine in hand and not a care in the world. Still a little tender from my night out in La Rochelle the evening before, I decided to take it slow. I grabbed a baguette from Boulangerie Au Pétrin Moissagais, wandered past the overflowing bars of Chartrons, and ended the night with a slow walk home.
Sunday. Riverfront Mornings & Festival Vibes
Sunday started with soft light spilling through the shutters. Just five minutes from my door is the Quai des Chartrons, a wide riverside promenade along the Garonne. The Marché des Quais was in full swing: stalls piled high with cheese, oysters, fish, meats and the likes.
Roly and I followed the river all the way to Place de la Bourse, where the iconic fountain shimmered against the mirror pool. The city was electric with runners, families, and pink shirts everywhere for Bordeaux’s annual breast cancer charity run. Easily the most alive Sunday I’ve seen in France.
Lunch was at Suzette Crêperie Urbaine, with a savoury galette, followed by a glass of wine on an outside terrace. After I headed back to Chartrons and enjoyed dangerously good pastries from Paola Pâtisserie (zero regrets).
The afternoon faded back into the rhythm of the festival with live music, vintage stalls, and wine flowing freely for day two of the celebrations.
Dinner was at Osteria Pizzeria Da Bartolo, where I ordered seafood linguine and ended up chatting with a brother-and-sister duo at the next table. Pierre was a Bordeaux local, and his sister was visiting from Biarritz. Pierre shared travel tips for Spain, which I scribbled down between chats and sips of wine. The kind of night that reminds you why solo travel never really feels solo.
Monday. River Runs, Groomers & Good Energy
Monday kicked off with a jog along the Garonne, tracing the waterfront through Chartrons. Even under grey skies, the view was beautiful with soft light on the river. Roly and I ran about 4K, splashing through puddles alongside other early-morning joggers who, like me, couldn’t care less about the rain.
Afterwards, I stopped by La P'tite Boulangerie Notre-Dame, my go-to boulangerie near my airbnb, for the daily ritual, a fresh baguette. I returned to the apartment and made myself breakfast and a dirty chai latte, fuel for a productive morning of client work.
In the afternoon, Roly had his grooming appointment at Pattes de Velours, where the team greeted him like an old friend. While he got pampered, I treated myself to a massage at Le Royaume Thaï, one blissful hour that reset my whole body. Honestly, it was 10/10 from start to finish.
With time to spare before Roly pickup, I stopped for a glass of white wine at SAS Le Wiz, with tables spilling onto the pavement. I sat outside, people-watching and waving back at friendly locals who honked or smiled as they passed. That easy, open warmth is exactly what I love about this neighbourhood.
When I picked up Roly, he looked beyond cute; fresh, fluffy, and full of post-spa confidence. Back at the Airbnb, I finished a few last client tasks and meetings, cooked sirloin steak with potatoes and broccoli, and later unwound. A perfect Monday, equal parts productive and peaceful.
Tuesday. Quiet Streets & Hot Tub Evenings
By Tuesday, Chartrons had shifted back to its usual calm after the weekend buzz. With the festival packed away, it felt good to explore the neighbourhood at my own pace, no crowds, just the quiet hum of everyday life.
I wandered in and out of the independent shops that line Rue Notre-Dame and Rue du Faubourg des Arts, both full of creative boutiques, vintage finds, and local makers. I picked up a small Bordeaux wall print, a keepsake for the road before heading back to the Airbnb for a full day of client work.
It was one of those deep-focus days with my laptop and music playlists, the digital nomad flow in full swing. By evening, I ordered Indian takeaway from Indian Nepali Swad (comfort food, done right) and, to top off the night, sank into the Airbnb’s hot tub. After a long workday, it was the perfect mix of productivity and pause. Perfection.
Wednesday. Shopping Streets, Salon Days & City Buzz
By midweek, Bordeaux was in full swing again. I walked from Chartrons into the city centre, weaving through Rue Sainte-Catherine, Bordeaux’s main shopping street and one of the longest in Europe.
Lunch was at Rishi, a relaxed spot perfect for a quick bite before a little retail therapy. I popped into Sephora and left with a new red lipstick, bold and chic because sometimes, you just need a midweek confidence boost.
Next stop: a hair appointment, followed by a spontaneous cider and work session at SARL Arlu, a laid-back pub where I set up my laptop and caught up on emails between sips. As the evening rolled in, I wandered back toward Chartrons and stopped for dinner at Bistrot Maurice, a local favourite. This was the kind of day that blended errands, self-care, and city life into one long, satisfying stretch.
Thursday. Sunshine, Therapy & A Perfect Final Day
My last full day in Bordeaux began with a run along the Garonne River, the sun rising over the water and music in my ears. It was one of those golden mornings that make you feel like you’re exactly where you’re meant to be.
Back at the Airbnb, I had my weekly therapy session, something that keeps me grounded while living on the move and then spent the late morning packing up before check-out. With the weather too good to ignore, I headed downtown and grabbed a table outside Le Mascaron, a restaurant overlooking the centre. The food was incredible, perfectly seasoned, fresh, and paired with a chilled glass of wine.
Live music played in the square, the sun was warm, and I worked from my laptop between courses, one of those dreamy digital nomad moments that actually live up to the idea.
In the evening, I met a local friend for drinks at Le Molly Malone, a lively pub with great energy and even better people-watching. I ended the night back at the Airbnb, soaking in the hot tub. The perfect goodbye before the next stop Biarritz.
Friday. A Calm Morning in Bastide & The Road to Biarritz
Before hitting the road, I crossed the river to explore Bastide, a quieter, more residential side of Bordeaux.
I started the morning at French Kiss Café, a bright, buzzy spot filled with digital nomads tapping away on laptops, chatting over coffee, or half-dozing between deadlines. The atmosphere had that gentle creative chaos, part coworking, part community. I ordered a dirty chai latte (made to perfection), set up my workspace, and let a couple of productive hours drift by.
Roly, meanwhile, was in full social mode, weaving between tables, collecting strokes and smiles like tips. You could feel the shared digital camaraderie in the room, a mix of freelancers, founders and daydreamers all doing their thing.
Afterwards, we headed to Le Calixte for lunch, a local favourite. I ordered the homemade lasagna, hearty and comforting, the perfect “last supper” before my three-hour drive to Biarritz.
Bastide had this peaceful, restorative energy, the perfect palate cleanser after a week of wine, festivals, and riverside runs.
💌 A Note from the Road
Bordeaux had it all; creative energy, riverside calm, and the kind of social warmth that lingers. From mornings at the market to nights in the hot tub, from chai lattes to runs, this city made me feel both inspired and at ease.
It’s the kind of place that balances equal parts sophistication and soul and I know I’ll be back to explore more.
Next stop: Biarritz for surf vibes, sunsets, and the start of the Basque chapter.
Tuesday. Arrival in the Rain
Leaving Nantes behind, I drove southwest toward La Rochelle, a two hour route that gradually traded urban traffic for stretches of open countryside and salty coastal air. My Airbnb was tucked away on Rue des Gonthières, in a quiet residential pocket near Saint-Éloi, about a 25-minute walk from the centre.
By evening, the sky opened up with torrential rain pounding the streets that made unloading the car a small adventure in itself. I took Roly for a quick (and very wet) loop around the block before retreating back inside for warmth and a takeaway dinner from a nearby Chinese restaurant called Asian food.
Wednesday. Markets, Pancakes & Cooking Again
The next morning the weather redeemed itself with blue breaks in the clouds, sunlight spilling over the rooftops. Roly and I set out on foot toward the city centre, passing boulangeries and Parc Charruyer, where trees arched over winding paths and the park buzzed gently with runners and dog walkers.
I started the day at Palem Café, a bright, minimalist brunch spot near Place de Verdun. I ordered bacon, eggs, pancakes with maple syrup, and a chai latte, the kind of breakfast that feels like a small reward after a long walk. I sat out on the terrace with the other dog owners (since dogs aren’t allowed inside). The air felt fresh, and it was one of those unhurried mornings.
After breakfast, we wandered through Le Marché Central, La Rochelle’s daily covered market in the heart of town. Inside, locals bartered cheerfully over crates of oysters, towers of cheese, meats, fish and glossy vegetables. I filled my basket with garlic, spinach, ham, seabass, smoked salmon, steak, lots of vegetables, dried mango, and baguettes.
Back at the Airbnb, I worked through the afternoon, then cooked dinner, seabass with potatoes, spinach, and bread. After a week of eating out in Nantes, the chance to cook again felt grounding, a return to small, healthy rituals.
Thursday. Storms, Stillness & WFH
Thursday rolled in grey and gusty, the kind of Atlantic weather that rearranges your plans. I stayed in, laptop open, Roly curled up on the bed as wind rattled the shutters. It wasn’t an exciting day, but it was peaceful. These kind of days remind me that digital nomad life isn’t always adventure; sometimes it’s just life, lived elsewhere.
Friday. Mussels, Sea Air & Sunset Drinks
By Friday the skies cleared again, and La Rochelle returned to postcard form. I wandered back toward the central market to pick up some more supplies before leaving the next day.
I had lunch at Le P'tit Amiral and enjoyed mussels in wine and cheese sauce, perfectly coastal and utterly delicious.
Roly and I strolled the Vieux Port, La Rochelle’s harbour, lined with pastel façades and outdoor terraces filled with chatter. We followed the waterfront past the Tour de la Chaîne and Tour Saint-Nicolas, the twin medieval towers that once guarded the entrance to the port, and continued to the nearby Plage de la Concurrence for a breezy beach walk.
That evening, I met Julien, a local I’d been chatting with, for harbour drinks and tapas. We ended up at Rue St Jean du Pérot, the lively strip of bars and restaurants by the port, and tucked into small plates over wine. Good company and conversation plus the glow of the port lights on the water made it the kind of easy, happy Friday night that travel gifts you when you least expect it.
Where to Eat & Drink in La Rochelle
Think seafood straight off the boats, and cosy bistros.
Palem Café – A minimalist brunch dream near Place de Verdun. The pancakes, maple syrup, and chai latte combo is the morning move.
Le P’tit Amiral – Mussels in wine and cheese sauce that feel like a love letter to the Atlantic. A must for a long, lazy lunch.
Le Comptoir Saoufé – Lively oyster and seafood bar by the harbour. Order a glass of wine and settle in for the view.
La Storia – Tucked behind a courtyard gate, this Italian gem is easy to miss but absolutely worth finding. Perfect pasta, relaxed setting, and warm service.
Ernest Glacier – Local ice cream shop with inventive flavours (the salted caramel is next level). Ideal for a post-dinner harbour stroll.
Rue St Jean du Pérot – Not a single venue, but the street to head for food and drinks. Buzzing terraces, tapas, wine, and all the people-watching you could want.
Le Jardin du Marché – Refined, local dining tucked behind the central market. Fresh seafood, seasonal vegetables, and perfectly plated mains.
Papy Mougeot – Chic French bistro with a wine list that encourages lingering. Enjoy the steak.
Le Comptoir de Walter – Simple, stylish, and all about seasonal produce. The sort of place locals actually recommend to their friends.
💌 A Note from the Road
La Rochelle was a mix of rain-soaked mornings, breezy harbours, and calm coastal afternoons. The weather wasn’t on my side for much of the week, and I didn’t get to explore as much as I’d hoped, but maybe that was the point.
This stop offered a slower pace, market mornings, and home-cooked dinners. While most days were quiet, the final night with good company, harbour lights, and laughter over wine reminded me that every destination has its moment.
Next stop: Bordeaux
Leaving Rennes behind, I drove south toward Nantes which was took around 1.5 hours on the open motorway. On the edge of the city, I spotted Parc de la Gaudinière, its trees glowing in rich shades of autumnal amber. With the airbnb check-in not until 3PM, it felt like the perfect place to stop for a walk with Roly.
We wandered through the park looping around the lake and through the tree-lined paths, soaking up the stillness before heading into the city. Little did I know, that peaceful walk was the calm before the chaos that was about to unfold.
The Beginning of the Plot Twist: A Bump on the Road
The calm from our park walk didn’t last long. I headed back to the car feeling refreshed and ready to check into the Airbnb. The parking area sits along the roadside, with each car wedged between low stone boulders.
Getting into the space had already been a bit of a puzzle thanks to the sloped road and narrow gaps. Getting out turned out to be trickier. The boulders sit just below mirror height, so you can’t actually see them when reversing. As I eased out slowly to line up with the road, I heard a quiet thunk.
I got out to check and, sure enough, there it was, a small but clear dent in the back of my Mini. Nothing major, but still annoying. The boot sensor even joined in, beeping on and off as I drove, a gentle reminder of the boulder misfortune. For now, it’s purely aesthetic, a minor scar on the Mini and a reminder that travel has its humbling moments.
Plot Twist 2: The Airbnb Curveball
I drove into the city and checked into my Airbnb which was on the first-floor above a tattoo shop. The entrance was a little gloomy, with narrow corridors and steep stairs, but nothing I couldn’t handle.
I unloaded the car, carried everything up, with Roly scrurrying up and down with me. Once unapcked I started to feel that post-travel relief… until my phone pinged. It was the host and I received the dreaded words: “Just to let you know, the Wi-Fi is down.”
Every digital nomad knows that Wi-Fi isn’t just a nice-to-have, it’s the lifeline. Without it, there’s no client work, no emails, no connection. I messaged the host back, confirmed the situation, and we agreed to cancel the booking for a refund.
Which meant doing everything I’d just done in reverse. Back down the dark corridor, loading up the car again, and Roly pacing with me between the apartment and the Mini again.
It was now evening, and I needed another plan.
Plot Twist 3: Booking.com Hotel Overbooking Saga
I found a nearby hotel on Booking.com called Hôtel de la Cité that seemed ideal with good reviews, parking included, and dog-friendly. I booked it straight away, grabbed my bag, and drove over feeling relieved that the day was finally turning around. Or so I thought...
At check-in, the receptionist looked at me, then at her screen, and sighed. “I’m so sorry, we’re fully booked. Booking.com has been overbooking guests all day because of a system error.” Of course, the payment hold had already gone through… but the room? Nowhere to be found.
By this point it was nearing 8PM, and I couldn’t help but laugh, otherwise, I probably would have cried. The day had officially gone full circle: park peace, boulder dent, Airbnb fail, and now a hotel mix-up. Surely, there couldn’t be another plot twist waiting around the corner… right?
Third Time Lucky: Hôtel Billie
At this point, I wasn’t taking any chances. I found another hotel called Hôtel Billie, right in the city centre, and this time, I called directly to confirm:
Dog-friendly?
Rooms available?
Parking nearby?
Working WIFI?
Finally, a yes to everything.
When I arrived, the woman at reception was an absolute gem. She smiled the moment I walked in, helped me bring my luggage inside, and even offered to carry one of the heavier bags up to my room. After the day I’d had, her kindness genuinely felt like medicine.
I parked the car in a nearby car park, and headed back to check in properly. The room was cosy, and exactly what I needed. A sense of peace after hours of chaos.
Of course, there was one final hurdle: the hotel Wi-Fi. It connected instantly on my phone, but my laptop refused to cooperate. Cue a 45-minute tech marathon of DNS resets, DHCP renewals, captive-portal gymnastics before it finally worked.
That night, I sank into the crisp sheets, and exhaled. It had been one of those travel days, the kind that test your patience but leave you quietly proud of how calm you stayed.
Because if there’s one thing this road trip keeps teaching me, it’s that adventure isn’t just in the beautiful moments, it’s also in the messy, mildly ridiculous ones that remind you you’re really out here, doing it. And honestly, the same goes for life.
Friday: A Fresh Lens on Nantes
After a full night’s rest and reset, I woke up ready to see Nantes through a different lens.
Stepping out of Hôtel Billie that morning located on Rue Scribe 26, Bis, the city already felt different. I realised how perfectly placed I was, right in the heart of things, surrounded by independent shops, cafés, and restaurants. Maybe the chaos of changing hotels had actually worked in my favour.
I wandered with Roly through the quiet morning streets, picking up a ham and cheese baguette from Emma Pâtisserie along the way. I ate on the go, weaving through the narrow streets lined with French boutiques, Bonobo, Manfield, Cotelac, and Paul Marius to name a few. At one point, Roly stopped and stared through the window of Hermès, tail wagging, as if he expected me to take him shopping. Sorry, love, we’re not quite at Hermès budget territory.
We wandered into Passage Pommeraye, Nantes’ famous 19th-century shopping arcade. It has beautiful architecture with marble staircases and glass ceilings. Outside, we stopped at Place Royale, one of Nantes’ main squares. In the centre sits a grand fountain surrounded by stone figures, each one representing a local river that flows through the region, including the Loire, Erdre, and Sèvre. The sculptures are so detailed they almost look alive, water spilling gently around them as tourists and locals cross the square. After exploring for a few hours, I headed back to the hotel to work for the afternoon.
By evening, I was ready for good food and went to Le Bistrot Basque de Nantes, a tapas spot that brings a taste of the Basque Country to western France. The atmosphere was warm and buzzy, locals chatting over glasses of wine, plates clinking, the hum of conversation carrying through the terrace.
I ordered three dishes: squid with rice, prawns with garlic, and a creamy pavlova for dessert, paired with a glass of champagne. Everything was rich, full of flavour, and exactly what I needed.
Nantes, I realised over dinner, is a grower. It doesn’t charm you instantly like Rennes or Rouen, it unfolds slowly, through its food, and its little daily details. And by the end of that meal, I knew it was starting to win me over.
Saturday. Pamper & a Little Vinyl Therapy
After 2 weeks on the road, I was overdue for a little self-care. Saturday started with a morning walk through the city to a nail salon called L’Onglerie Nantes, my version of a recharge day. I walked in on a whim and luck was on my side; they had a same-day appointment just a couple of hours later.
With time to spare, Roly and I wandered around the area to explore. Just a few doors down, we found Biche Dogshop, a beautifully curated pet boutique. Naturally, Roly insisted we go in. The owner was so lovely and she told me about Squeek, a rescue dog she was looking after, who was just as sweet as his name. Roly got treats and I got dog mum joy.
A few shops up, a sign caught my eye, Comme à la Radio, a record store stacked with vinyls. As a long-time collector with a vinyl player at my home in London, I couldn’t resist. I spent about 45 minutes digging through the UK garage, deep and tribal house, and drum & bass crates, pure heaven. I left with five new records, future souvenirs to spin when I’m back home (or maybe at an Airbnb with a player, if I'm lucky).
After that, it was time for my appointment at L’Onglerie, and I walked out with fresh gel polish in my favourite pink, a small but satisfying reset. I wasn’t done yet though. Next stop: Comptoir du Soin, a little beauty studio where I booked in for waxing. It felt good to hit pause and take care of myself after weeks of movement.
Dinner that evening was at Chez Thérèse et Denise, a traditional French restaurant where I ordered stewed lamb with fries. Proper comfort food to close out the day.
Sunday in Nantes
I started the day at Les Machines de l’Île, one of Nantes’ most talked-about attractions. It’s home to large mechanical creations inspired by animals and nature, including the city’s famous Grand Éléphant, a 12-metre-tall moving sculpture that sprays water as it walks.
Dogs aren’t allowed on the ride or inside the main gallery, so Roly and I wandered around the outdoor area, checking out the industrial structures nearby. It’s an unusual and creative space.
Afterwards, we walked along the Loire River, following the pedestrian path lined with trees and bridges. The air was crisp, the light soft, and the city had that easy Sunday stillness France does so well. Most shops close on Sundays here, part of a long-standing tradition that treats the day as one for rest, family, and food. Only a handful of cafés and crêperies stay open, and the slower pace feels intentional. It's a pause in the week rather than an inconvenience.
Nantes was hosting a marathon that morning, the second I’ve come across in France after Rennes last week, adding a burst of energy to the quiet Sunday streets.
I ended the afternoon at Le Coin des Crêpes, a cosy spot serving traditional Breton galettes and sweet crêpes. I ordered a savoury crêpe filled with bacon, leek, cream, and melted cheese, paired with a chilled cider, pure comfort on a plate. For dessert, I couldn’t resist an apple and caramel crêpe, warm and buttery with just the right sweetness. Both were a solid 10/10.
Side note: I’m eating so much bread and pastry in France. I’m going to need to find a run soon before the carbs start catching up. A few runs along the coast in La Rochelle should keep things in check.
Monday in Nantes: Rain, Serendipity & Sweet Goodbyes
Monday began at Sugar Blue, a cosy café that quickly became my work base. I ordered a warm croissant with coffee, set up my laptop, and settled in for a quiet morning of work.
Between emails, I struck up a lovely conversation with a mother-and-son duo from Boston. The mum, Cindy, was warm, witty, and wonderfully bohemian. She told me she’d spent years as a nomad and is now retired, having now settled in Tomar, Portugal, a town she spoke about with real fondness. Her bag caught my eye too, and Cindy explained that cork is one of Portugal’s biggest natural exports. I love how travelling gives you these small, unexpected exchanges. She even passed me her contact details, so who knows maybe our paths will cross again when I reach Portugal later in my trip.
It was a rainy Monday in Nantes with the sound of rain tapping against the windows all day. Outside, it came down in sheets, the kind that makes timing your exit an extreme sport. When I finally decided to leave the café, the rain returned in full force, so I dashed for cover and ducked into a nearby pub. I ordered a classic English breakfast tea. I know, very British of me in France, but exactly the warm hug I needed on a damp Monday.
Once the rain eased, I wandered into Outremesure, a boutique I’d been eyeing the day before when it was closed for Sunday rest. Inside, I found a gorgeous tote bag and matching cosmetic pouch printed with a quirky dog motif, an instant yes for me. The tote’s big enough to fit my laptop and travel essentials, and the design feels like a little nod to Roly.
The rest of the day stayed low-key. The kind of rainy day that calls for staying in and catching up on work. In the evening, I packed up the car, ready for tomorrow’s drive.
Tuesday: A Farewell Lunch at Emporietto
On my last day in Nantes, I wanted one final meal to end the city on a high note and Emporietto, a tucked-away Italian restaurant about 20 minutes’ walk from the centre, was just that. Finding it felt a bit like a treasure hunt: you have to slip through a quiet gate and down a narrow cobbled alley before stepping inside its stone-vaulted cellar dining room.
The atmosphere was instantly warm with low lighting and rustic walls. I ordered 2 dishes: a mix of tender pork served with creamy mushroom and another with purée, beautifully balanced and full of flavour.
It was the perfect send-off meal, local, and made with care. As I walked back through the narrow graffiti-lined streets with Roly trotting beside me, I felt ready for the next chapter.
Next stop: La Rochelle
What I Learned from My Stay in Nantes
Nantes wasn’t the easiest chapter of this road trip. It began with dents, double-bookings, and more rain than planned but it turned into a gentle reminder of what slow travel is really about.
Here’s what I’m taking with me:
Flexibility is everything. Plans will fall apart (sometimes twice in one day), but there’s always a plan B and often, it leads to something better.
Kindness shows up when you least expect it. From the hotel receptionist who helped carry my bags to Cindy in the café sharing stories about Portugal, little moments of connection can completely shift your day.
Aesthetic dents are just that, aesthetic. Whether it’s a car or a travel hiccup, most things look worse than they are.
Cities take time to reveal themselves. Once the chaos settled, Nantes quietly grew on me. It has creativity, character, and charm beneath the surface.
Balance matters. Between croissants, crepes, and coastal plans ahead, I’m learning that road life is equal parts indulgence and intention.
Nantes reminded me that not every stop has to be picture-perfect to be meaningful. Some places earn your love slowly, one small story, one kind stranger, and one unexpected detour at a time.
Rennes, France. Where Canals Meet Creativity
Leaving Rouen behind, I drove south toward Rennes which took around 4 hours. Rennes is a city I knew little about but felt instantly drawn to. Why? Because the moment I arrived, I could sense its creative pulse; the mix of art, energy, and ease that gives it character. I knew I’d be here for a week, and I couldn’t wait to see what lay beneath the surface.
The drive had been long but pulling up outside my Airbnb felt like a small victory. The flat was trendy; open-plan, filled with vinyls, plants, and art with a patio spilling with greenery, outdoor furniture and quirky fixtures. The canal was just around the corner, catching the last of the evening light.
Roly stretched out on the cool floor, tail thumping gently as if to say, we made it. I unpacked a few bits from the car, and watched the light fade through the tall windows. That sweet, still moment between arrival and adventure.
That night, I ordered Indian takeaway from Délice de India, very yummy and exactly what a travel day deserves.
Saturday. Markets, Art & Ink
Saturday morning began at Marché des Lices, Rennes’ famous weekend market lined with stalls overflowing with cheese, bread, flowers, and chatter. I wandered through with a coffee in hand, picking up local cheese and a bottle of red wine, before stopping for lunch at Crêperie au Marché des Lices.
Here, crêpes are made with buckwheat flour, giving them that distinctive Brittany flavour, savoury, and perfect with cider. I ordered one with ham and melted cheese and sat in the patio sun surrounded by locals enjoying their weekend ritual.
After lunch, Roly and I wandered along the Arsenal-Redon Canal, the kind of place where life just happens with cyclists and runners whizzing past, dogs chasing sticks, couples sharing wine on the grass. It reminded me of Hackney Wick back home in London. Creative, lived-in, and full of easy charm.
Later that afternoon, I visited the La Criée Centre d’Art Contemporain, a small but striking exhibition space that captures Rennes’ creative heartbeat. Afterwards, I stopped at La Tête Enfarinée for baguettes and cakes, and picked up jambon and market goods from Marché Central to cook later.
A Turtle & A Twist
As the sun dipped, the day took a spontaneous turn. I walked into Cœur d’Encre, a small tattoo studio filled with plants, vinyl, and warm light, and walked out with a sea turtle on my arm, a symbol of intuition, emotional depth, and the ability to navigate life’s challenges.
And as if fate wanted to add a plot twist, Cédric, the Frenchman I met in Rouen, came to visit me in Rennes. He got a match tattoo, a small flame. Somehow, it felt poetic; two different symbols.
Courtyard Drinks & Unplanned Conversations
That evening, we went to La Piste, an open-air bar with a laid-back courtyard vibe.
We ordered drinks and ended up joining two women from Brittany who invited us to their table. We spent hours chatting, laughing, and swapping stories, one of those spontaneous, unscripted nights that make travel feel effortlessly alive.
Sunday. Seafood & Sunshine at Chez Brume
Lunch at Chez Brume was perfection; a refined bistro with a sunny terrace serving seafood. I had a selection of their tasting dishes, followed by pavlova, and a glass of prosecco.
As we ate, the Rennes Marathon passed by, a blur of runners, and clapping, turning lunch into a front-row seat to local life.
After lunch, we wandered through the Sunday flea market, a maze of vintage books, art, and antiques that spilled into the nearby streets. We ended the day with dinner at La Chope, where I had steak frites, a pafita roll, and an Aperol Spritz to close out the weekend perfectly.
Monday. Canal Loops & Quiet Moments
Monday morning began with a long canal walk. Roly trotted beside me while the city slowly stirred with runners, cyclists, and locals walking to work with coffee in hand.
In the afternoon, I wandered to Marché Central, picking up sausages, steak, and a baguette to cook at home, then spent the rest of the day working from the airbnb.
A working Monday but a deeply content one.
Tuesday. Canal Walks & Roly’s EU Passport
On Tuesday, I drove to Vetovie Fougères vétérinaire in Rennes to get Roly’s EU pet passport, one of those important admin steps for anyone travelling long-term through Europe with a dog.
The vet was fantastic, friendly, professional, and even English-speaking, which made everything simple. They registered Roly, carried out a routine health check, and issued his French (EU) passport on the spot.
Total cost: around $60 for the check-up, registration, and the EU passport.
The EU passport is a game-changer for pet travel. It replaces the need for constant vet visits and new health certificates at each border. With it, Roly can now travel freely between EU countries for the next year as long as his rabies vaccination stays valid.
It’s one of those small but huge wins for life on the road, less paperwork, more adventure.
Dinner that night was at PHO ANH EM, a Vietnamese restaurant serving pho, noodles, and fresh rolls bursting with flavour.
Wednesday &Thursday. Work, Walks & Pancake Farewell
Not every day on the road is about exploration, and that’s exactly what makes it real. Wednesday was spent working from the Airbnb, and Roly and I took our usual 45-minute walk along the Arsenal-Redon Canal in the afternoon. The sun was shining, the water shimmered, and the city moved with that charm that defines Rennes.
That evening, I cooked the sirloin steak I’d picked up from the market earlier in the week, which was tender, and perfect with a glass of red wine.
The next morning came with that bittersweet feeling of packing up and moving on. Leaving days are equal parts chaos and excitement.
Before hitting the road, I stopped at Oh My Biche, a dog-friendly café that doubles as a co-working spot. I ordered pancakes with maple syrup, bacon, and scrambled eggs, and it absolutely hit the spot. It was the perfect send-off.
Where to Eat & Drink
Crêperie au Marché des Lices – Buckwheat crepes and local cider
Oh My Biche – Dog-friendly café and co-working gem, and the best brunch in town
Chez Brume – Refined yet relaxed bistro serving fresh seafood
Pho Anh Em – Fragrant Vietnamese pho, noodles, and spring rolls
La Cavale – Cosy bistro with natural wines and modern French plates
L’AOC – Seasonal, elevated French dishes using regional ingredients in a relaxed setting.
Superkraft – Bistro-meets-bar with great coffee by day and creative cocktails by night.
Origines Restaurant-Bar-Microbrasserie – Industrial-style eatery pairing craft beer with generous, flavourful dishes.
Le Bacchus – Wine bar and bistro with live jazz, candlelight, and a romantic edge.
Le Tournesol – Small, friendly wine bar perfect for easy evenings and good conversation.
Why Rennes Stuck With Me
Rennes has a spark that’s hard to define. What I loved most is how liveable it feels. You can walk almost everywhere, pick up a baguette and flowers from the market, stop for wine at a bar you didn’t plan to visit, and end the day by the canal with locals who feel more like neighbours.Rennes has character stitched into its daily life.It wasn’t the biggest city, the most dramatic, or the flashiest stop on my route. But it was the one that felt the most real; creative, social, and full of heart. For now, it’s my favourite chapter on this journey.
Now, it’s time for the next route.
Next stop: Nantes.
The Arrival
Rouen was never meant to be an eight-day stop but that’s the thing about the places that surprise you. They quietly convince you to stay longer.
After the drive from Calais, I arrived to a city that looked like a painting with half-timbered houses, gothic spires, cobbled streets that curve just enough to make you wonder what’s around the corner. My Airbnb on 31 Rue du Fardeau had everything a traveller dreams of: high ceilings, art-filled walls, colourful furnishings, and morning light pouring through tall windows.
My car was tucked neatly away at the Opéra car park just five minutes away, and I had everything I needed; coffee, comfort, and a city waiting to be explored.
If you’re travelling Europe long-term by car, Rouen is the kind of base that makes sense. A week in one place gives you space to breathe, explore, and still feel the pull of the road ahead.
Why Rouen Works
Rouen has an easy rhythm. It’s historic but not stuck in the past, beautiful but lived in, romantic without trying too hard.
It’s where Gothic cathedrals meet indie cafés, and history meets small daily pleasures. A warm croissant, a rain shower over cobblestones, a late-night glass of wine with live music in the background.
It’s also a very dog-friendly city in France. Roly was welcomed everywhere, cafés, shops, even restaurants usually with a smile and a water bowl.
The Cafés & Morning Rituals
Mornings began at Café Augustin, a minute from my apartment. It’s an eclectic little spot with large windows perfect for people-watching. I'd also enjoy a dirty chai latte at Columbus Café, which was also close by.
For other great café stops, Prélude Café, Bibelot, and Madame A are beautiful choices for coffee and brunch. Café Crème and Couleur Café bring that easy French café charm.
History & Hidden Corners
Rouen’s history runs deep. It’s where Joan of Arc met her fate, and where Monet painted the same cathedral façade over and over to capture its changing light.
Walking through the city is like flipping between centuries
Cathédrale Notre-Dame towers over the old town, all stone lace and shadow.
The Gros-Horloge, a golden clock suspended above a cobbled street, still ticks as it has for hundreds of years.
Rue Eau-de-Robec is one of Rouen’s prettiest streets, half-timbered houses, small canals, and vintage shops.
For art lovers, stop by Hangar 107 for modern exhibitions, or L’Établi for local contemporary pieces. And if you love vinyl or vintage, Aesthetic Circle Record Shop is worth a browse.
Sunday in Rouen. Markets & Quiet Streets
Sunday in France has its own tempo, calm, simple, almost sacred. In Rouen, that means the city slows to a whisper.
Most shops and restaurants close completely on Sunday and Monday, and the few that open typically shut around 1:30 PM including the main Marché Saint-Marc.
The food market itself is worth the early start with stalls piled with cheese, meats, fish, vegetables, fruits, and fresh bread. Locals chatting and dogs weaving through the crowd like regulars. It’s the perfect glimpse of everyday French life.
By early afternoon, the city empties. Streets fall quiet, and the sound of church bells replaces traffic. It’s oddly soothing, a reminder to slow down too.
That evening, I wandered through the old town and ended the day with a crepe and three gelato toppings from Amorino. Sweet, simple perfection.
The Day Trip: Étretat Cliffs
When the sun broke through later in the week, I decided to make the 1.5-hour drive from Rouen to Étretat, one of Normandy’s most breathtaking coastal towns.
The route winds through fields and villages before the sea appears suddenly, framed by white chalk cliffs. I stopped first at La Flottille, a cosy dog-friendly restaurant a short walk from the beach. The smell of butter, garlic, and cream greets you instantly. I ordered mussels in cream sauce which were rich, delicate, and easily a 10/10.
After lunch, Roly and I explored the cobbled beach, framed by breathtaking cliffs on both sides. Roly paddled in the sea while I watched the waves hit the rocks, sunlight turning everything gold.
We climbed Falaise d’Aval as sunset hit, the kind of view that reminds you why you travel. Standing there, surrounded by cliffs and coves, with Roly beside me and the sea stretching endlessly ahead, everything felt right.
A French Date & Live Music
Somewhere between cathedral strolls and coastal hikes, I met Cédric. We met for a walk in the Botanical Gardens, which turned out not to be dog-friendly, but we made it work, walking and talking in a different area, and heading to the city in the evening for dinner at Zhoushi, fresh sushi and then Victorine Piano Bar across the road.
Victorine is Rouen’s hidden gem, with a grand piano at the centre, cosy décor, and sophistication. I ordered a local Sauvignon, he ordered red wine, and for a few hours, everything was just music and conversation.
When we left, the cobbled streets were quiet, the cathedral glowing softly in the distance. And there, under the Rouen moon, we shared a kiss, one of those perfectly cinematic moments you can’t plan, only live.
A night later, I returned to Victorine Piano Bar for live jazz, oysters, and champagne. The show was meant to be at its sister bar, Victorine Jazz Bar, but after flooding, it moved back here. It was another fun filled night.
The Food Scene
Rouen’s food scene is surprisingly rich for its size. Highlights include:
Navio — Modern French, where I had perfectly cooked medium-rare beef with caramelised vegetables.
Hanoï Délice — Vietnamese comfort food perfect on a rainy day.
Zhoushi — Fresh sushi made in front of you.
La Pêcherie — Seafood lovers, take note.
Listo — Ecuadorian dishes full of colour and flavour.
Bân Thaï and Bambou — for a taste of Asia.
Le Kitsch, Lé Là, and Tempo — modern French done beautifully.
Amorino — Crepes and gelato piled high (mandatory).
La Pasta Tinto — A welcoming Italian with gluten-free options and friendly staff. Roly even got water and ham. Pure dog-hospitality perfection.
Rouen has that lovely French habit of slowing you down with food. You sit, savour, and stay longer than you meant to.
Nightlife & Local Spots
For drinks, Le Charleston and L’Estaminet Bières & Cocktails are both fantastic, full of character and great music. Victorine Piano Bar and Victorine Jazz & Wine offer a more elegant vibe, while The Sound of the Horn is perfect for a laid-back glass.
The Journey Onwards
On my last morning, I checked out at 11am. One final look at the space that had been home for eight days. Before the long drive to Rennes, I stopped at La Pasta Tinto for lunch and ordered pasta with shellfish, and Roly was treated like a king with a full bowl of ham from the staff. The restaurant filled up quickly with locals, always the best sign.
Following a good meal, a happy dog, and a full heart we were now ready to travel onwards to Rennes.
Why Rouen Stayed With Me
Rouen feels like a city in balance. History without heaviness. Charm without cliché. The kind of place that doesn’t demand attention but quietly captures it.
It’s full of small joys, cafés with character, friendly faces, dogs at every table, and light that hits the cobblestones just right.
This was my first chapter in my European road trip and I couldn’t have asked for a better beginning.
Merci, Rouen. Next stop, Rennes.
