Valencia, Spain: Where the City Meets the Sea

Barcelona → Valencia

The drive from Barcelona to Valencia took just under four hours and was entirely motorway, which made it easy and relaxed. Once I’d left the city behind, the roads opened up quickly and the journey became one of those steady, uncomplicated drives where you can just settle in and let the kilometres pass.

Arriving into Valencia, the difference was immediate. The city feels more open. Palm trees line wide roads, light bounces off pale buildings, and everything feels less compressed. 

I got the sense that this would be an easy place to settle into, explore properly, and live in for a while rather than rush through.

Valencia already felt like it had its own energy. Quieter than Barcelona, but confident. And very much its own thing.

Settling In: Duplex City of Arts & Science

I settled into a duplex apartment called Duplex City of Arts & Science, located in the Camins al Grau district. It’s a modern, residential pocket of Valencia that feels local and more everyday life. 

The City of Arts & Sciences is about a 15-minute walk away and the beach at Platja de Llevant is roughly a 30 minute walk or 10 minute drive.

It was the kind of base that felt well connected, bright, and easy to slip into Valencia without trying too hard.

Wandering Valencia

Day two was about walking without a plan and letting the city reveal itself. The neighbourhood around the apartment felt properly lived-in with residents chatting on corners, local shops ticking along at their own pace. Palm trees, basketball courts and bursts of colourful graffiti sat casually between apartment blocks, all under that bright Valencian light.

Late morning drifted naturally into food, as it tends to here. I stopped at Taberna El Clavo, grabbed a table outside, and leaned into a very Spanish brunch: tortilla, bread, something grilled, and a glass of cava that felt entirely justified. Around me, conversations rolled on, and no one looked in a rush to be anywhere else. It was the kind of place where time stretches slightly, not because it’s trying to be charming, but because that’s just how people use it.

An Evening at Casa Montaña

That evening, I headed out for dinner on a date with a guy from Amsterdam who’d been living in Valencia for a while. He recommended tapas and drinks at Casa Montaña, a hidden gem in El Cabanyal.

Casa Montaña has been around since the 1800s, and it feels it in the best way. Nothing here has been polished up or reworked. Tiled walls, wooden barrels, shelves of wine that look like they’ve been added to gradually, bottle by bottle, over time.

We ordered the way you’re supposed to here, a few things at a time, glasses topped up, plates shared. The food was excellent, but what stood out more was the vibe of the place. Conversations overlapping, people leaning in, wonderfully friendly staff. You could tell this was somewhere people return to, not somewhere they “discover.”

The evening unfolded easily. Good food, vermut, wine, stories traded back and forth about cities lived in and left behind. It felt distinctly Valencian.

It was one of those evenings that slots neatly into a place’s story and the perfect end to my first day.

Arts, Gardens & a Very Practical Detour

Day three came with one clear priority: my MacBook charger had stopped working. Not dramatic, just urgent. When you’re working on the road, that cable is non-negotiable.

I headed to Centro Comercial El Saler, right on the edge of the city, and went straight to K-tuin Valencia Saler. Problem solved. New charger in hand, momentum restored.

What I didn’t expect was how workable the mall itself turned out to be. There’s a proper desk area built into the space with power points, room to spread out, people doing the same thing. I sat down and got some solid work done. Once that was handled, the day opened up.

Step outside the mall and Valencia immediately shows another side. The Turia Gardens run straight through the city. A former riverbed repurposed after flooding in the 1950s and now one of Valencia’s best assets. Long paths, palms, sports courts, people walking dogs, cycling, stretching out the afternoon. It doesn’t feel curated. It feels used.

From there, the city shifts again as the City of Arts and Sciences comes into view. Big, white, sculptural buildings sitting in sheets of blue water, sharp against the sky. Designed to make an impression, and it does. Even without going inside, walking through the complex feels like moving through a different version of Valencia: bolder, cleaner, more futuristic.

Roly strolled along beside me, the sun stayed high, and the afternoon slipped by easily. A charger replaced, work done, and then hours outside taking in how this city actually functions; green space threaded through it, architecture that takes risks, and room for real life in between.

Where the City Meets the Sea

Spending time in Valencia inevitably pulls you towards the water. I headed out to Platja de Llevant, close enough to the city to reach easily but far enough to feel like a proper change of scene. Even in December, the weather held; warm enough for long walks along the sand, throwing a ball for Roly, or simply sitting facing the water with no agenda beyond switching off.

Roly was immediately in his element, sprinting across the sand and paddling in the gentle waves. Time passed without any effort to track it, and food followed naturally.

This stretch of coastline has plenty of places to eat, many with relaxed indoor–outdoor terraces. I stopped at Restaurante Sabbia Valencia, settling into a leisurely three-course lunch with fresh seafood, a glass of wine, and dessert to finish. The food was excellent.

As the day shifted into evening, the nearby marina offered a different mood. Spots like Marina Beach Club and La Marina de València start to fill with music. It’s another layer of Valencia that reveals itself. A city that makes space for local life, good food, and time outside.

Living in Valencia

Staying in Valencia for eleven days shifted the pace completely. After the first few days of exploring, the rest of the time settled into something closer to everyday life. 

Most days started with walks through the neighbourhood. Orange trees heavy with fruit lined residential streets, parks filled with people walking dogs, chatting on benches, passing time. 

Roly got a groom at Tu Pet Estilismo de Mascotas. I booked a Thai massage at Thirak Thai Massage & Wellness, which turned out to be exactly what it promised; thorough, grounding, and very good at undoing weeks of driving and laptop posture.

Food became less about “where to eat” and more about where we naturally ended up. Casual breakfasts at Planeta Café, tapas at El Castillo de las Tapas, and paella at Casa Bassa. One evening we went for something completely different, asian cuisine at Shintori Teppanyaki.

There were plenty of in-between moments too. Leisurely shopping at department store El Corte Inglés, grabbing takeaway from Thai Tu Box, stopping for drinks at Il Cuore di Ruzafa as the neighbourhood eased into evening. I even squeezed in eyebrow threading at Lashes & Go Valencia, which was a nice treat.

What stood out wasn’t a single moment, but how naturally Valencia accommodates daily life. Parks woven through the city, the beach close enough to drift in and out of, and futuristic architecture sitting comfortably alongside it all. After eleven days, that felt like its strongest quality.

Valencia Neighbourhoods at a Glance

Valencia is easy to understand once you get a feel for its neighbourhoods. Each area has its own personality, but they link together seamlessly, making it simple to move between different sides of the city without effort.

El Carmen (Ciutat Vella / Old Town)

The historic heart of Valencia. Narrow streets, small plazas, layers of Roman, Moorish, and medieval architecture. Lively without being overwhelming, especially in the evenings when people spill into bars and squares.

Pla del Remei / Eixample (City Centre)

Elegant, polished, and very walkable. Think wide avenues, boutiques, cafes, and classic buildings. This is the traditional city centre; refined, central, and easy to live from.

Ruzafa

Social, creative, and full of personality. Cafes by day, wine bars by night, and a strong neighbourhood feel throughout. One of the best areas for food, drinks, and feeling plugged into local life.

El Cabanyal

Coastal and characterful, shaped by its fishing-village past. Colourful façades, traditional taverns, and a strong sense of identity. Close to the beach and home to some of Valencia’s most loved long-standing spots.

Camins al Grau / City of Arts & Sciences

More open and residential, with modern buildings, wide streets, and easy access to green space, the Turia Gardens, and the beach. Practical, well connected, and ideal for longer stays.

La Marina / Beach Areas (Malvarrosa & Patacona)

Beach-first living. Long promenades, seafood restaurants, relaxed cafes, and space to breathe. Feels separate from the city in the best way, while still being easy to reach.

Notes from the Road: Valencia

Valencia offered space and balance with its mix of beaches, neighbourhoods, architecture and food all working together. 

Enough energy to keep things interesting, enough space to make it sustainable.

Now, it’s time for the next route.

Next route: Alicante.