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The Route To South Devon
After Bristol, I headed down to South Devon. I based myself in Brixham, a colourful fishing town that feels like a postcard, working harbour, pastel cottages, seafood galore, and dog-friendly walks in every direction.
A short walk from there leads to Berry Head Nature Reserve, a cool find in South Devon. The cliffs sweep out into the sea, home to guillemots and wildflowers, and The Guardhouse Cafe serves breakfast with a view. Roly loved it too, wide open space, friendly dogs, and the occasional whiff of bacon drifting in the breeze.
Broadsands Beach became our morning ritual with wide sands, calm tides, and friendly locals who all seemed to know each other’s dogs by name. Elberry Cove nearby was another gem, a tucked-away bay perfect for a post-breakfast walk.
Life Between Coast and Moor
Brixham made a good base, cosy, coastal, and with character. When I wanted a change of scene, I’d drive inland to Dartmoor National Park. The moorlands hit different, open, wild, and full of mood. Haytor Rocks and Hound Tor were standouts, with sheep grazing against misty backdrops.
To warm up, I’d stop for a cream tea at The Cafe On The Green in Widecombe-in-the-Moor, where scones come out still warm. For pub stops, The Rugglestone Inn and Two Bridges Hotel were both classics for cosy fires and hearty food.
Back on the coast, Torquay offered a totally different rhythm: promenades, marinas filled with yachts, and easy going seaside charm. Dinner at Siam Garden Thai was a surprise find, tucked away and authentic.
The South Hams
From Brixham, I followed the curve of the coast toward Salcombe and the South Hams a really pretty stretch of Devon. Think turquoise coves and winding lanes.
Bigbury-on-Sea was breathtaking, a beach revealing a sandy causeway to Burgh Island. Lunch at The Oyster Shack (mussels and a glass of white) summed up the region perfectly: casual, coastal, quietly perfect.
In Salcombe, I wandered through narrow streets lined with boutiques and pastel cottages before heading to North Sands Beach for a sunset stroll. The Crab Shed lived up to its name serving up a yummy crab lunch, fresh, and right by the harbour.
I also ventured inland to Totnes, a creative market town full of vintage shops, organic cafes, and a slightly bohemian energy. I had lunch at Rumour Kitchen & Bar.
Exeter to Plymouth. History Meets Harbour
Heading north, Exeter made a good stop between coasts with its student buzz, and riverside calm. I grabbed a coffee and Portuguese tart from The Exploding Bakery, then wandered the Exeter Quayside before checking out Exeter Cathedral.
From there, I carried on to Plymouth, a city that surprised me. It wears its maritime history proudly. The Hoe, Smeaton’s Tower, and the Mayflower Steps are all worth a wander. I enjoyed Royal William Yard, a redeveloped naval complex turned foodie hub, and nearby Wembury Beach for a quiet dog walk to end the day.
Devon on a Plate
Everything tastes more fresh here.
Seafood highlights:
- Albero (Brixham) — seafood linguine
- Rockfish (Brixham & Plymouth) — hake & chips
- The Crab Shed (Salcombe) — crab heaven
Cream teas & cosy stops:
- The Cafe On The Green - Widecombe-in-the-Moor
- Two Bridges Hotel, Dartmoor — fireside charm
- Fingle Bridge Inn, Dartmoor — riverside views
Pub classics:
- The Rugglestone Inn — venison pie & real ale
- The Ship Inn, Noss Mayo — crab sandwich by the creek
- The Masons Arms, Exmoor — Michelin-star country pub
🐾 Dog-Friendly Devon
Beaches like Broadsands, Bantham, and Saunton Sands welcome dogs year-round, and most pubs, restaurants and cafes happily bring out a water bowl before you even sit down.
Roly’s favourites? Morning walks on Broadsands Beach, the coastal path from Berry Head, wild runs at Haytor, a splash at Elberry Cove.
The Takeaway
Two weeks in Devon felt like pressing pause on life, swapping screens for sea views, noise for nature, and hurry for something slower and more grounded.
If you’re craving a trip that blends coast, countryside, good food, and a bit of soul, Devon delivers.
Next stop: Cornwall
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FAQs - Planning a Trip to Devon
Extremely. Most beaches, pubs, and walking trails welcome dogs year-round. Broadsands, Bantham, Saunton Sands, and Bigbury-on-Sea are all dog-friendly, as are Dartmoor’s open moorlands and many Exmoor trails. Just check local signs in summer months as some beaches have seasonal restrictions.
If you want to explore the coast and Dartmoor, Brixham makes a brilliant base. You’re close to Torbay, Dartmouth, and the moors. For a more laid-back vibe, Totnes or Salcombe are beautiful spots in the South Hams. Exeter is ideal if you prefer a city with easy access to both coastlines.
Ideally two to three weeks if you want to explore both South and North Devon without rushing. One week will cover the South Coast and Dartmoor nicely, but you’ll want extra time for Exmoor’s cliffs and beaches up north.
A car makes all the difference. Devon’s best beaches, moors, and hidden coves aren’t always served by public transport. If you’re travelling with a dog, driving gives you the freedom to stop for spontaneous swims and photo ops along the South West Coast Path.
Yes. There’s good Wi-Fi in most towns (Totnes, Exeter, Salcombe), plenty of dog-friendly cafes, and a calm pace that suits solo travel. I worked remotely from Brixham and found it easy to balance calls with coastal walks.