Travel Guides

Travelling to Europe with a Dog from the UK
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Travelling to Europe with a Dog from the UK: The Complete Guide
Table of Contents The Week Before Leaving the UK UK to EU Dog Travel Rules After Brexit Microchip and Rabies Requirements for UK to EU Dog Travel Getting an Animal Health Certificate for Travel to Europe Travelling from the UK to France with a Dog via Eurotunnel How Long Can You Travel in Europe with a Dog After Entry? Getting an EU Pet Passport in Europe Returning to the UK with a Dog: The Tapeworm Requirement Travelling Europe with a Dog from the UK: What I’ve Learned The Week Before Leaving the UK In October 2025, I packed up my life in Hackney Wick, London and drove out of the city with no return date in the diary. This wasn’t a weekend in France or a short European break. It was the start of a long-term road trip across Europe and beyond with my best travel companion, Roly. I’m a digital nomad, which sounds free and spontaneous, and it is but this chapter came with some structure, because this wasn’t just me crossing borders. It was me and Roly, my five-year-old cockapoo, navigating a post-Brexit system that requires precision. In the weeks leading up to departure, I’d been quietly working through the details: calculating rabies timelines, double-checking microchip records, booking the Animal Health Certificate appointment, and working backwards from the date we’d drive through the Channel Tunnel and officially leave the UK. Travelling from the UK to Europe with a dog isn’t complicated but it is specific. This is exactly how I did it: the sequencing, the paperwork, the vaccines, the timing, the real costs from someone who has actually done it. If you’re planning the same move, this will make the process feel clear, structured, and manageable from the start. UK to EU Dog Travel Rules After Brexit A few years ago, travelling from the UK to Europe with a dog would have been far more straightforward. You’d have a UK-issued EU pet passport tucked away in a drawer, reusable and ready whenever you fancied to travel to Europe with your dog. No extra appointments. No ticking clock. After Brexit, that changed. The UK is now classed as a “Part 2 listed country,” which means UK-issued EU pet passports are no longer valid for entry into the EU. Instead, each trip requires an Animal Health Certificate issued specifically for that journey. It’s just an additional layer and one where timing matters. Microchip before rabies Twenty-one days after vaccination Certificate issued within ten days of travel Once you understand the structure, it’s easy to work within it. Microchip and Rabies Requirements for UK to EU Dog Travel Before you can even think about the Animal Health Certificate, the foundations have to be in place. First: microchip. Then: rabies vaccination. The order matters. If the rabies vaccine was given before the microchip, it’s invalid for travel. Once Roly’s rabies vaccination was done, the clock started. You have to wait 21 full days before travelling to Europe. That waiting period isn’t negotiable. It’s built into the rules. So in the weeks leading up to departure, I was counting carefully forward from that vaccine date, working backwards from when I wanted to leave London. Once that window had passed, only then could I return to the vet for the next step. Getting an Animal Health Certificate for Travel to Europe Once the timelines were locked in, the next step was booking Roly’s Animal Health Certificate appointment. I went to The Hackney Vet in Clapton, his regular vet in London and the appointment cost £265. By the time we walked into the clinic, I already knew the dates by heart. The microchip was scanned first. The rabies vaccination record checked. Twenty-one days counted carefully forward to make sure everything aligned with the UK to EU dog travel rules. The vet worked through the certificate page by page, completing each section carefully before signing it in blue ink, a small but important detail, as official signatures must be clearly distinguishable from printed copies. I also had to sign the document confirming the travel details were correct. There are no digital versions. No emailed backups. What you’re handed in that room is the original document you travel with. That certificate wasn’t just another form. It was our clearance to leave the UK and drive into Europe. Travelling from the UK to France with a Dog via Eurotunnel I drove down to Folkestone the night before my crossing and stayed at the Burlington Hotel, BW Premier by Best Western an easy, dog-friendly option close to the terminal. The next morning, we headed to the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle early, and I’d recommend you do the same. Give yourself at least 1.5 hours, especially if you’re travelling with a dog. Everything runs efficiently, but it isn’t a ten-minute process. Here’s how it works: Main check-in Pet Reception (microchip scanned and documents checked) UK passport control EU passport control Quick stop for toilets or snacks before boarding At Pet Reception, Roly’s microchip was scanned and the Animal Health Certificate reviewed carefully. Rabies dates confirmed. Details checked. Only once everything aligned with the UK to EU pet travel rules were we cleared to proceed. Then you drive your car onto the shuttle and remain inside for the 35-minute crossing to Calais. No handing your dog over. No separation. Just you, your vehicle, and the train carrying you under the Channel. And just like that, we were in France, legally entered and officially on the road. How Long Can You Travel in Europe with a Dog After Entry? Once you’ve entered the EU legally with an Animal Health Certificate, the pressure drops. The certificate is valid for four months for travel within the EU. That means once you’re in Europe, you don’t need new paperwork every time you cross an internal border. For a long road trip, that flexibility changes everything. The key restriction is the entry window: you must enter the EU within ten days of the certificate being issued. After that, you can move freely within most EU countries for up to four months, provided the rabies vaccination remains valid. It’s structured, but it’s workable and once you understand the validity rules, travelling Europe with a dog becomes straightforward. Getting an EU Pet Passport in Europe There’s one more step that changes long-term travel completely. An Animal Health Certificate gets you into the EU. But if you’re staying for months and moving between countries, the real unlock is getting an EU-issued pet passport once you’re inside Europe. I got Roly’s French (EU) pet passport at Vetovie Fougères Vétérinaire in Rennes, France. The vet was fantastic; friendly, professional, and English-speaking, which made the whole process easy. They registered Roly, carried out a routine health check, and issued his EU passport on the spot. Total cost: around €60. That EU pet passport replaces the need for repeated Animal Health Certificates for travel within the EU and for future trips back into the EU from the UK, as long as the rabies vaccination remains valid. For long-term road travel, that’s a game-changer. It shifts everything from tightly managed paperwork windows to something far more fluid. Less admin. More road. Do You Need to Be an EU Resident to Get an EU Pet Passport? You might see conflicting advice online about this. There is no strict EU-wide rule that says you must be an EU resident to get an EU pet passport. However, in practice, some vets, depending on the country may choose not to issue passports to non-residents. This isn’t a legal restriction, but a vet-level decision. France is generally one of the easiest places to do this. In my case, Roly had his rabies vaccination done in the UK. When we arrived in France, the vet simply verified his records, carried out a quick check, and issued the passport. No restart. No waiting period. If your rabies vaccination is valid and properly recorded, the process is usually straightforward. Returning to the UK with a Dog: The Tapeworm Requirement Entering Europe is structured. Returning to the UK has one final rule you can’t ignore. Before re-entering the UK, your dog must receive tapeworm treatment between 24 and 120 hours before arrival. It has to be administered by a vet and recorded properly in the passport or travel documentation. The timing isn’t flexible. Not earlier than 120 hours. Not later than 24. For Roly, I use Droncit, and I always book the appointment as soon as my return date is confirmed. Once that’s done, the process back through Eurotunnel is straightforward. Microchip scanned again. Documents checked. Cleared to re-enter. By that point, you’re no longer second-guessing the system. You’re just moving through it. Travelling Europe with a Dog from the UK: What I’ve Learned Travelling from the UK to Europe with a dog isn’t complicated but it rewards precision. Microchip first. Rabies second. Twenty-one days counted properly. Animal Health Certificate issued within ten days of entry. Tapeworm treatment timed carefully for the return. Once you’ve done it once, the structure makes sense. The paperwork becomes routine. The borders stop feeling like obstacles and start feeling like part of the route. For me, travelling Europe with Roly isn’t about ticking countries off a list. It’s about building a life on the move that still respects the rules. Less stress. More freedom. And once you understand the system, the road opens up.  For more dog travel planning guides, explore the full France Travel Guides.
Article author: Shnai Johnson
Anglet & Biarritz, France: Coastline, Surf & Dog-Friendly Days
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Anglet & Biarritz, France: Coastline, Surf & Dog-Friendly Days
Leaving Bordeaux behind, I drove three hours southwest to Anglet, a coastal gem nestled between Bayonne and Biarritz, just 40 minutes from the Spanish border. I arrived at my Airbnb in Anglet, a stylish ground-floor apartment with a private terrace, secure parking, and modern coastal décor. Think warm lighting, soft neutrals, and bohemian touches that make it feel instantly like home.  Anglet has this quietly cool energy with wide beaches, independent surf shops, and locals who seem to have mastered the art of balance. It’s coastal living with a creative edge. The perfect last French stop before I head into Spain. Friday. Arrival in Anglet After the drive, I took Roly for a short walk around the block, to stretch our legs. Dinner was a low-key takeaway night, a chance to reset after the drive and settle into the new space. Saturday. Harbour Lunch & Beach Walks Saturday was for exploring. I drove into Biarritz’s Old Harbour, and explored the cobbled streets that wind between quirky boutiques, surf shops, lively restaurants and cafés. I had lunch at Chistera et Coquillages, a local favourite serving French–Basque tapas. I ordered two dishes; steak and squid, both marinated and cooked to perfection. After lunch, Roly and I walked down to Plage du Port Vieux, a small, sheltered cove tucked between cliffs, and then continued along the path to Grande Plage, the city’s main beach. He wasted no time jumping in for a swim while I sat and watched the waves roll in. On the walk back, I stopped at Crêperie Bleue de Toi for a post-lunch crêpe, then wandered through Biarritz’s maze of independent shops before heading back to Anglet. The rest of the day was chilled with some client work, Netflix (hello Selling Sunset), and an easy night in. Sunday. Market Finds & Sunshine Sunday morning started at Marché de Quintaou, Anglet’s weekly food market. It's a lively maze of stalls where locals greet vendors by name and the air is filled with the smell of freshly cooked food and cheerful chatter. I wandered between stalls piled high with local produce, tasting cheese, cured meats, and a baguette, trading smiles and small talk with stall owners who kindly overlooked my broken French. It was the perfect start to the day before heading back to the Airbnb. I spent the afternoon catching up on client work from the terrace. The sun was out, music played softly in the background, and for a few hours, everything just felt still. Monday. A Date to Remember Monday was mostly a workday; laptop, sunshine, terrace, repeat. You can read more in my guide Digital Nomad Life in France.  As evening rolled around, I met Antoine, a Canadian from Quebec, along the Côte des Basques beachfront. We wandered aimlessly through Biarritz’s cobbled streets, talking about travel, life, and everything in between, before finding a wine bar tucked into a narrow lane. The kind of spot that feels like it’s been there forever, dimly lit, warm, and full of character. Dinner was at Haragia, a steakhouse where they bring the cut of meat to your table before cooking it to perfection. Antoine and I shared a bottle of white, medium-rare steak, and conversation that flowed easily into laughter. Roly got a few bites of steak too (of course).  By the end of the evening, we’d made friends with the owner and two guys there on business. Once everyone had finished their meals, we all ended up at the bar next door to continue the night with more drinks, more stories, more laughter. It was one of those nights that reminded me why I love to travel, the serendipity of it all: new places, great food, and the kind of connection you can’t plan for. Tuesday. Sunshine, Errands & a Coastal Farewell Check-out day began with a few practical errands. First stop: an Amazon collection box in town (a lifesaver when you’re constantly on the move), followed by Anglet Auto Service Motrio, where the team kindly topped up my car oil ahead of the next leg of the journey. Quick, friendly, and genuinely helpful. With a few hours to spare before my check-in across the border, I drove to Plage d’Anglet. The weather couldn’t have been better, 23°C, full sunshine, and that crisp breeze that makes you want to linger just a little longer. Roly splashed in the surf, tail wagging, while I sat back on the sand, letting the sound of the ocean melt away the last of my to-do list. There’s something about the Atlantic that feels cleansing; wild, rhythmic, and steady all at once. Along the promenade, I stopped for lunch at À Table, a local spot with a sunny terrace and the kind of friendly owner who makes you feel instantly at home. I ordered a creamy prawn risotto topped with melted cheese, my “last lunch in France” moment and ended up chatting with the owner about my year-long European road trip. She was fascinated and insisted I visit Saint-Jean-de-Luz, just 30 minutes drive south, calling it “the perfect blend of France and Spain.” A Stop in Saint-Jean-de-Luz I took the restaurant owners advice, and she was right. The short drive from Biarritz to Saint-Jean-de-Luz felt like crossing between worlds. The scenery shifted subtly between French charm giving way to Spanish architecture. In Saint-Jean-de-Luz, I wandered through boutiques, bakeries, and shops before finding myself at the harbour, where I grabbed a table at Le Suisse Brasserie & Café. With my laptop open and the sun on my face, I caught up on work emails, a perfect balance of work and wander. Onward to Spain From Saint-Jean-de-Luz, it was a smooth half-hour drive into San Sebastián. There's no border crossings, no passport checks, just a shift in language and lifestyle as France faded quietly into Spain. That’s the beauty of the Schengen Agreement, it allows free movement across most of Europe, so driving from France into Spain feels as seamless as crossing into a neighbouring town. One minute you’re hearing bonjour, the next it’s hola. There was something poetic about how simple it was. One continuous coastline, one endless sense of movement. For city-by-city breakdowns and deeper regional planning, explore the full France and Spain Travel Guides. 💌 Why I Loved Biarritz (and Anglet) Biarritz and Anglet were everything I needed to close out my month in France with coastal calm, surf energy, beach walks, market mornings, and unexpected connections over wine. This part of France was both grounding and alive, elegant yet laid-back, where surfboards lean against art galleries, and strangers still stop to say bonjour. As I drove toward Spain, I felt deeply grateful. This was the perfect finale to the northern chapter of my French route. Though I’ll return to explore the south later, this stretch of coastline will always mark the true beginning of the adventure. Merci beaucoup, France. Now, it’s time for the next route. Next route San Sebastián. 🇪🇸
Article author: Shnai Johnson
Bordeaux, France: Wine, River Walks & Good Energy
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Bordeaux, France: Wine, River Walks & Good Energy
Saturday. Arrival in Bordeaux I arrived in Bordeaux on a Saturday afternoon after a smooth three-hour drive from La Rochelle. My Airbnb was perfectly placed in Chartrons, the city’s creative heart at Rue Ramonet, complete with a hot tub and that understated cool that instantly makes you think, yep, I could live here. As luck would have it, I’d landed right in the middle of La Fête du Vin Nouveau et de la Brocante, a street festival celebrating wine, food, vintage finds, and music. The whole neighbourhood was buzzing: live bands on every corner, the scent of food drifting through the air, and locals in their most stylish “just threw this on” outfits wove through the crowd. Before I could dive into the fun, there was the small matter of check-in. With the roads closed for the festival, I had to park a few streets away and make several luggage runs through the crowd with Roly trotting the streets like he already owned the place. Once everything was inside the airbnb, I moved the car to Citi Parking (five minutes away), and returned to join the party. The streets were alive with music drifting between cafés, bars, restaurants and laughter spilling from every corner. I wandered through the stalls, watching locals dance and chat, wine in hand and not a care in the world. Still hungover from my night out in La Rochelle the evening before, I soaked up the vibes. I grabbed a baguette from a nearby bakery Boulangerie Au Pétrin Moissagais, and wandered through the overflowing streets of Chartrons. Sunday. Riverfront Mornings & Festival Vibes Sunday started with soft light spilling through the shutters. Just five minutes from my door is the Quai des Chartrons, a wide riverside promenade along the Garonne. The Marché des Quais was in full swing: stalls piled high with cheese, oysters, fish, meats and the likes. Roly and I followed the river all the way to Place de la Bourse, where the iconic fountain shimmered against the mirror pool. The city was electric with runners, families, and pink shirts everywhere for Bordeaux’s annual breast cancer charity run. Easily the most alive Sunday I’ve seen in France. Lunch was at Suzette Crêperie Urbaine, with a savoury galette, followed by a glass of wine on an outside terrace. After I headed back to Chartrons and enjoyed dangerously good pastries from Paola Pâtisserie (zero regrets).  The afternoon faded back into the festival with live music, vintage stalls, and wine flowing freely for day two of the celebrations. Dinner was at Osteria Pizzeria Da Bartolo, where I ordered seafood linguine and ended up chatting with a brother-and-sister duo at the next table. Pierre was a Bordeaux local, and his sister was visiting from Biarritz. Pierre shared travel tips for Spain, which I scribbled down between chats and sips of wine. The kind of night that reminds you why solo travel never really feels solo. Monday. River Runs, Groomers & Good Energy Monday kicked off with a jog along the Garonne, tracing the waterfront through Chartrons. Even under grey skies, the view was beautiful with soft light on the river. Roly and I ran about 4K, splashing through puddles alongside other early-morning joggers who, like me, couldn’t care less about the rain. Afterwards, I stopped by La P'tite Boulangerie Notre-Dame, my go-to boulangerie near my airbnb, for the daily ritual, a fresh baguette. I returned to the apartment and made myself breakfast and a dirty chai latte, fuel for a productive morning of client work. You can read more on this in my guide Digital Nomad Life in France.  In the afternoon, Roly had his grooming appointment at Pattes de Velours, where the team greeted him like an old friend. While he got pampered, I treated myself to a massage at Le Royaume Thaï, one blissful hour that reset my whole body. Honestly, it was 10/10 from start to finish. With time to spare before Roly pickup, I stopped for a glass of white wine at SAS Le Wiz, with tables spilling onto the pavement. I sat outside, people-watching and waving back at friendly locals who honked or smiled as they passed. That easy, open warmth is exactly what I love about this neighbourhood. When I picked up Roly, he looked beyond cute; fresh, fluffy, and full of post-spa confidence. Back at the Airbnb, I finished a few last client tasks and meetings, cooked sirloin steak with potatoes and broccoli, and later unwound in the Airbnb jacuzzi. A perfect Monday, equal parts productive and peaceful. Tuesday. Quiet Streets & Hot Tub Evenings By Tuesday, Chartrons had shifted back to its usual calm after the weekend buzz. I wandered in and out of the independent shops that line Rue Notre-Dame and Rue du Faubourg des Arts, both full of creative boutiques, vintage finds, and local makers. I picked up a small Bordeaux wall print, a keepsake for the road before heading back to the Airbnb for a full day of client work. It was one of those deep-focus days with my laptop and music playlists, the digital nomad flow in full swing. By evening, I ordered Indian takeaway from Indian Nepali Swad (comfort food, done right) and, to top off the night, enjoyed round 2 of the Airbnb’s jacuzzi. Such a touch after a long workday. Perfection.  Wednesday. Shopping Streets, Salon Days & City Buzz By midweek, Bordeaux was in full swing again. I walked from Chartrons into the city centre, weaving through Rue Sainte-Catherine, Bordeaux’s main shopping street and one of the longest in Europe. Lunch was at Rishi, a relaxed spot perfect for a quick bite before a little retail therapy. I popped into Sephora and left with a new red lipstick, bold and chic because sometimes, you just need a midweek confidence boost. Next stop: a hair appointment, followed by a spontaneous cider and work session at SARL Arlu, a laid-back pub where I set up my laptop and caught up on emails between sips. As the evening rolled in, I wandered back toward Chartrons and stopped for dinner at Bistrot Maurice, a local favourite. This was the kind of day that blended errands, self-care, and city life into one long, satisfying stretch. Thursday. Sunshine, Therapy & A Perfect Final Day My last full day in Bordeaux began with a run along the Garonne River, the sun rising over the water and music in my ears. It was one of those golden mornings that make you feel like you’re exactly where you’re meant to be. Back at the Airbnb, I had my weekly therapy session on zoom, something that keeps me grounded while living on the move and then spent the late morning packing up before check-out. With the weather too good to ignore, I headed downtown and grabbed a table outside Le Mascaron, a restaurant overlooking the centre. The food was incredible, perfectly seasoned, fresh, and paired with a chilled glass of wine. Live music played in the square, the sun was warm, and I worked from my laptop between courses, one of those dreamy digital nomad moments that actually live up to the idea. In the evening, I met a local friend for drinks at Le Molly Malone, a lively pub with great energy and even better people-watching. The perfect goodbye before the next stop Biarritz. Friday Morning in Bastide & The Road to Biarritz Before hitting the road, I crossed the river to explore Bastide, a quieter, more residential side of Bordeaux.  I started the morning at French Kiss Café, a bright, buzzy spot filled with digital nomads tapping away on laptops, chatting over coffee, or half-dozing between deadlines. The atmosphere had that gentle creative chaos, part coworking, part community. I ordered a dirty chai latte (made to perfection), set up my workspace, and let a couple of productive hours drift by. Roly, meanwhile, was in full social mode, weaving between tables, collecting strokes and smiles like tips. You could feel the shared digital camaraderie in the room, a mix of freelancers, founders and daydreamers all doing their thing. Afterwards, we headed to Le Calixte for lunch, a local favourite. I ordered the homemade lasagna, hearty and comforting, the perfect “last supper” before my three-hour drive to Biarritz. Bastide had a restorative energy, the perfect palate cleanser after a week of wine, festivals, and riverside runs. 💌 A Note from the Road Bordeaux had it all; creative energy, riverside calm, and the kind of social warmth that lingers. From mornings at the market to nights in the hot tub, from chai lattes to runs, this city made me feel both inspired and at ease. It’s the kind of place that balances equal parts sophistication and soul and I know I’ll be back to explore more. For city-by-city breakdowns and deeper regional planning, explore the full France Travel Guides. Now, it’s time for the next route. Next stop: Biarritz for surf vibes, sunsets, and the start of the Basque chapter.
Article author: Shnai Johnson
La Rochelle, France: Sea Air & Slow Living
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La Rochelle, France: Sea Air & Slow Living
Tuesday. Arrival in the Rain Leaving Nantes behind, I drove southwest toward La Rochelle, a two hour route that gradually traded urban traffic for stretches of open countryside and salty coastal air. My Airbnb was tucked away on Rue des Gonthières, in a quiet residential pocket near Saint-Éloi, about a 25-minute walk from the centre. By evening, the sky opened up with torrential rain pounding the streets that made unloading the car a small adventure in itself. I took Roly for a quick (and very wet) loop around the block before retreating back inside for warmth and a takeaway dinner from a nearby Chinese restaurant called Asian food. Wednesday. Markets, Pancakes & Cooking Again The next morning the weather redeemed itself with blue breaks in the clouds, sunlight spilling over the rooftops. Roly and I set out on foot toward the city centre, passing boulangeries and Parc Charruyer, where trees arched over winding paths and the park buzzed gently with runners and dog walkers. I started the day at Palem Café, a bright, minimalist brunch spot near Place de Verdun. I ordered bacon, eggs, pancakes with maple syrup, and a chai latte, the kind of breakfast that feels like a small reward after a long walk. I sat out on the terrace with the other dog owners (since dogs aren’t allowed inside). The air felt fresh, and it was one of those unhurried mornings. After breakfast, we wandered through Le Marché Central, La Rochelle’s daily covered market in the heart of town. Inside, locals bartered cheerfully over crates of oysters, towers of cheese, meats, fish and glossy vegetables. I filled my basket with garlic, spinach, ham, seabass, smoked salmon, steak, lots of vegetables, dried mango, and baguettes. Back at the Airbnb, I worked through the afternoon, then cooked dinner, seabass with potatoes, spinach, and bread. After a week of eating out in Nantes, the chance to cook again felt grounding, a return to small, healthy rituals. You can read more in my guide Digital Nomad Life in France.  Thursday. Storms, Stillness & WFH Thursday rolled in grey and gusty, the kind of Atlantic weather that rearranges your plans. I stayed in, laptop open, Roly curled up on the bed as wind rattled the shutters. It wasn’t an exciting day, but it was peaceful. These kind of days remind me that digital nomad life isn’t always adventure; sometimes it’s just life, lived elsewhere. Friday. Mussels, Sea Air & Sunset Drinks By Friday the skies cleared again, and La Rochelle returned to postcard form. I wandered back toward the central market to pick up some more supplies before leaving the next day. I had lunch at Le P'tit Amiral and enjoyed mussels in wine and cheese sauce, perfectly coastal and utterly delicious. Roly and I strolled the Vieux Port, La Rochelle’s harbour, lined with pastel façades and outdoor terraces filled with chatter. We followed the waterfront past the Tour de la Chaîne and Tour Saint-Nicolas, the twin medieval towers that once guarded the entrance to the port, and continued to the nearby Plage de la Concurrence for a breezy beach walk. That evening, I met Julien, a local I’d been chatting with, for harbour drinks and tapas. We ended up at Rue St Jean du Pérot, the lively strip of bars and restaurants by the port, and tucked into small plates over wine. Good company and conversation plus the glow of the port lights on the water made it the kind of easy, happy Friday night that travel gifts you when you least expect it. Where to Eat & Drink in La Rochelle Think seafood straight off the boats, and cosy bistros. Palem Café – A minimalist brunch dream near Place de Verdun. The pancakes, maple syrup, and chai latte combo is the morning move. Le P’tit Amiral – Mussels in wine and cheese sauce that feel like a love letter to the Atlantic. A must for a long, lazy lunch. Le Comptoir Saoufé – Lively oyster and seafood bar by the harbour. Order a glass of wine and settle in for the view. La Storia – Tucked behind a courtyard gate, this Italian gem is easy to miss but absolutely worth finding. Perfect pasta, relaxed setting, and warm service. Ernest Glacier – Local ice cream shop with inventive flavours (the salted caramel is next level). Ideal for a post-dinner harbour stroll. Rue St Jean du Pérot – Not a single venue, but the street to head for food and drinks. Buzzing terraces, tapas, wine, and all the people-watching you could want. Le Jardin du Marché – Refined, local dining tucked behind the central market. Fresh seafood, seasonal vegetables, and perfectly plated mains. Papy Mougeot – Chic French bistro with a wine list that encourages lingering. Enjoy the steak. Le Comptoir de Walter – Simple, stylish, and all about seasonal produce. The sort of place locals actually recommend to their friends. 💌 A Note from the Road La Rochelle was a mix of rain-soaked mornings, breezy harbours, and calm coastal afternoons. The weather wasn’t on my side for much of the week, and I didn’t get to explore as much as I’d hoped, but maybe that was the point. This stop offered a slower pace, market mornings, and home-cooked dinners. While most days were quiet, the final night with good company, harbour lights, and laughter over wine reminded me that every destination has its moment. For city-by-city breakdowns and deeper regional planning, explore the full France Travel Guides. Now, it’s time for the next route. Next stop: Bordeaux.
Article author: Shnai Johnson
Nantes, France: When the Road Tests You (and You Stay Cool Anyway)
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Nantes, France: When the Road Tests You (and You Stay Cool Anyway)
Arrival to Nantes Leaving Rennes behind, I drove south toward Nantes which was took around 1.5 hours on the open motorway. On the edge of the city, I spotted Parc de la Gaudinière, its trees glowing in rich shades of autumnal amber. With the airbnb check-in not until 3PM, it felt like the perfect place to stop for a walk with Roly.  We wandered through the park looping around the lake and through the tree-lined paths, soaking up the stillness before heading into the city. Little did I know, that peaceful walk was the calm before the chaos that was about to unfold.  The Beginning of the Plot Twist: A Bump on the Road The calm from our park walk didn’t last long. I headed back to the car feeling refreshed and ready to check into the Airbnb. The parking area sits along the roadside, with each car wedged between low stone boulders.  Getting into the space had already been a bit of a puzzle thanks to the sloped road and narrow gaps. Getting out turned out to be trickier. The boulders sit just below mirror height, so you can’t actually see them when reversing. As I eased out slowly to line up with the road, I heard a quiet thunk. I got out to check and, sure enough, there it was, a small but clear dent in the back of my Mini. Nothing major, but still annoying. The boot sensor even joined in, beeping on and off as I drove, a gentle reminder of the boulder misfortune. For now, it’s purely aesthetic, a minor scar on the Mini and a reminder that travel has its humbling moments.  Plot Twist 2: The Airbnb Curveball I drove into the city and checked into my Airbnb which was on the first-floor above a tattoo shop. The entrance was a little gloomy, with narrow corridors and steep stairs, but nothing I couldn’t handle. I unloaded the car, carried everything up, with Roly scrurrying up and down with me. Once unapcked I started to feel that post-travel relief… until my phone pinged. It was the host and I received the dreaded words: “Just to let you know, the Wi-Fi is down.” Every digital nomad knows that Wi-Fi isn’t just a nice-to-have, it’s the lifeline. Without it, there’s no client work, no emails, no connection. I messaged the host back, confirmed the situation, and we agreed to cancel the booking for a refund. Which meant doing everything I’d just done in reverse. Back down the dark corridor, loading up the car again, and Roly pacing with me between the apartment and the Mini again. It was now evening, and I needed another plan.  Plot Twist 3: Booking.com Hotel Overbooking Saga I found a nearby hotel on Booking.com called Hôtel de la Cité that seemed ideal with good reviews, parking included, and dog-friendly. I booked it straight away, grabbed my bag, and drove over feeling relieved that the day was finally turning around. Or so I thought... At check-in, the receptionist looked at me, then at her screen, and sighed. “I’m so sorry, we’re fully booked. Booking.com has been overbooking guests all day because of a system error.” Of course, the payment hold had already gone through… but the room? Nowhere to be found. By this point it was nearing 8PM, and I couldn’t help but laugh, otherwise, I probably would have cried. The day had officially gone full circle: park peace, boulder dent, Airbnb fail, and now a hotel mix-up. Surely, there couldn’t be another plot twist waiting around the corner… right? Third Time Lucky: Hôtel Billie At this point, I wasn’t taking any chances. I found another hotel called Hôtel Billie, right in the city centre, and this time, I called directly to confirm: Dog-friendly? Rooms available? Parking nearby?  Working WIFI?  Finally, a yes to everything. When I arrived, the woman at reception was an absolute gem. She smiled the moment I walked in, helped me bring my luggage inside, and even offered to carry one of the heavier bags up to my room. After the day I’d had, her kindness genuinely felt like medicine. I parked the car in a nearby car park, and headed back to check in properly. The room was cosy, and exactly what I needed. A sense of peace after hours of chaos. Of course, there was one final hurdle: the hotel Wi-Fi. It connected instantly on my phone, but my laptop refused to cooperate. Cue a 45-minute tech marathon of DNS resets, DHCP renewals, captive-portal gymnastics before it finally worked. That night, I sank into the crisp sheets, and exhaled. It had been one of those travel days, the kind that test your patience but leave you quietly proud of how calm you stayed. Because if there’s one thing this road trip keeps teaching me, it’s that adventure isn’t just in the beautiful moments, it’s also in the messy, mildly ridiculous ones that remind you you’re really out here, doing it. And honestly, the same goes for life. Friday: A Fresh Lens on Nantes After a full night’s rest and reset, I woke up ready to see Nantes through a different lens. Stepping out of Hôtel Billie that morning located on Rue Scribe 26, Bis, the city already felt different. I realised how perfectly placed I was, right in the heart of things, surrounded by independent shops, cafés, and restaurants. Maybe the chaos of changing hotels had actually worked in my favour. I wandered with Roly through the quiet morning streets, picking up a ham and cheese baguette from Emma Pâtisserie along the way. I ate on the go, weaving through the narrow streets lined with French boutiques, Bonobo, Manfield, Cotelac, and Paul Marius to name a few. At one point, Roly stopped and stared through the window of Hermès, tail wagging, as if he expected me to take him shopping. Sorry, love, we’re not quite at Hermès budget territory. We wandered into Passage Pommeraye, Nantes’ famous 19th-century shopping arcade. It has beautiful architecture with marble staircases and glass ceilings. Outside, we stopped at Place Royale, one of Nantes’ main squares. In the centre sits a grand fountain surrounded by stone figures, each one representing a local river that flows through the region, including the Loire, Erdre, and Sèvre. The sculptures are so detailed they almost look alive, water spilling gently around them as tourists and locals cross the square. After exploring for a few hours, I headed back to the hotel to work for the afternoon.  By evening, I was ready for good food and went to Le Bistrot Basque, a tapas spot that brings a taste of the Basque Country to western France. The atmosphere was warm and buzzy, locals chatting over glasses of wine, plates clinking, the hum of conversation carrying through the terrace. I ordered three dishes: squid with rice, prawns with garlic, and a creamy pavlova for dessert, paired with a glass of champagne. Everything was rich, full of flavour, and exactly what I needed. Nantes, I realised over dinner, is a grower. It doesn’t charm you instantly like Rennes or Rouen, it unfolds slowly, through its food, and its little daily details. And by the end of that meal, I knew it was starting to win me over. Saturday. Pamper & a Little Vinyl Therapy After 2 weeks on the road, I was overdue for a little self-care. Saturday started with a morning walk through the city to a nail salon called L’Onglerie Nantes, my version of a recharge day. I walked in on a whim and luck was on my side; they had a same-day appointment just a couple of hours later. With time to spare, Roly and I wandered around the area to explore. Just a few doors down, we found Biche Dogshop, a beautifully curated pet boutique. Naturally, Roly insisted we go in. The owner was so lovely and she told me about Squeek, a rescue dog she was looking after, who was just as sweet as his name. Roly got treats and I got dog mum joy. A few shops up, a sign caught my eye, Comme à la Radio, a record store stacked with vinyls. As a long-time collector with a vinyl player at my home in London, I couldn’t resist. I spent about 45 minutes digging through the UK garage, deep and tribal house, and drum & bass crates, pure heaven. I left with five new records, future souvenirs to spin when I’m back home (or maybe at an Airbnb with a player, if I'm lucky). After that, it was time for my appointment at L’Onglerie, and I walked out with fresh gel polish in my favourite pink, a small but satisfying reset. I wasn’t done yet though. Next stop: Comptoir du Soin, a little beauty studio where I booked in for waxing. It felt good to hit pause and take care of myself after weeks of movement. Dinner that evening was at Chez Thérèse et Denise, a traditional French restaurant where I ordered stewed lamb with fries. Proper comfort food to close out the day. Sunday in Nantes I started the day at Les Machines de l’Île, one of Nantes’ most talked-about attractions. It’s home to large mechanical creations inspired by animals and nature, including the city’s famous Grand Éléphant, a 12-metre-tall moving sculpture that sprays water as it walks. Dogs aren’t allowed on the ride or inside the main gallery, so Roly and I wandered around the outdoor area, checking out the industrial structures nearby. It’s an unusual and creative space.  Afterwards, we walked along the Loire River, following the pedestrian path lined with trees and bridges. The air was crisp, the light soft, and the city had that easy Sunday stillness France does so well. Most shops close on Sundays here, part of a long-standing tradition that treats the day as one for rest, family, and food. Only a handful of cafés and crêperies stay open, and the slower pace feels intentional. It's a pause in the week rather than an inconvenience. Nantes was hosting a marathon that morning, the second I’ve come across in France after Rennes last week, adding a burst of energy to the quiet Sunday streets. I ended the afternoon at Le Coin des Crêpes, a cosy spot serving traditional Breton galettes and sweet crêpes. I ordered a savoury crêpe filled with bacon, leek, cream, and melted cheese, paired with a chilled cider, pure comfort on a plate. For dessert, I couldn’t resist an apple and caramel crêpe, warm and buttery with just the right sweetness. Both were a solid 10/10. Side note: I’m eating so much bread and pastry in France. I’m going to need to find a run soon before the carbs start catching up. A few runs along the coast in La Rochelle  should keep things in check. Monday in Nantes: Rain, Serendipity & Sweet Goodbyes Monday began at Sugar Blue, a cosy café that quickly became my work base. I ordered a warm croissant with coffee, set up my laptop, and settled in for a quiet morning of work. Between emails, I struck up a lovely conversation with a mother-and-son duo from Boston. The mum, Cindy, was warm, witty, and wonderfully bohemian. She told me she’d spent years as a nomad and is now retired, having now settled in Tomar, Portugal, a town she spoke about with real fondness. Her bag caught my eye too, and Cindy explained that cork is one of Portugal’s biggest natural exports. I love how travelling gives you these small, unexpected exchanges. She even passed me her contact details, so who knows maybe our paths will cross again when I reach Portugal later in my trip. It was a rainy Monday in Nantes with the sound of rain tapping against the windows all day. Outside, it came down in sheets, the kind that makes timing your exit an extreme sport. When I finally decided to leave the café, the rain returned in full force, so I dashed for cover and ducked into a nearby pub. I ordered a classic English breakfast tea. I know, very British of me in France, but exactly the warm hug I needed on a damp Monday. Once the rain eased, I wandered into Outremesure, a boutique I’d been eyeing the day before when it was closed for Sunday rest. Inside, I found a gorgeous tote bag and matching cosmetic pouch printed with a quirky dog motif, an instant yes for me. The tote’s big enough to fit my laptop and travel essentials, and the design feels like a little nod to Roly. The rest of the day stayed low-key. The kind of rainy day that calls for staying in and catching up on work. In the evening, I packed up the car, ready for tomorrow’s drive. Tuesday: A Farewell Lunch at Emporietto On my last day in Nantes, I wanted one final meal to end the city on a high note and Emporietto, a tucked-away Italian restaurant about 20 minutes’ walk from the centre, was just that. Finding it felt a bit like a treasure hunt: you have to slip through a quiet gate and down a narrow cobbled alley before stepping inside its stone-vaulted cellar dining room. The atmosphere was instantly warm with low lighting and rustic walls. I ordered 2 dishes: a mix of tender pork served with creamy mushroom and another with purée, beautifully balanced and full of flavour. It was the perfect send-off meal, local, and made with care. As I walked back through the narrow graffiti-lined streets with Roly trotting beside me, I felt ready for the next chapter. For city-by-city breakdowns and deeper regional planning, explore the full France Travel Guides. What I Learned from My Stay in Nantes Nantes wasn’t the easiest chapter of this road trip. It began with dents, double-bookings, and more rain than planned but it turned into a gentle reminder of what slow travel is really about. Here’s what I’m taking with me: Flexibility is everything. Plans will fall apart (sometimes twice in one day), but there’s always a plan B and often, it leads to something better. Kindness shows up when you least expect it. From the hotel receptionist who helped carry my bags to Cindy in the café sharing stories about Portugal, little moments of connection can completely shift your day. Aesthetic dents are just that, aesthetic. Whether it’s a car or a travel hiccup, most things look worse than they are. Cities take time to reveal themselves. Once the chaos settled, Nantes quietly grew on me. It has creativity, character, and charm beneath the surface. Balance matters. Between croissants, crepes, and coastal plans ahead, I’m learning that road life is equal parts indulgence and intention. Nantes reminded me that not every stop has to be picture-perfect to be meaningful. Some places earn your love slowly, one small story, one kind stranger, and one unexpected detour at a time. Now, it’s time for the next route. Next stop: La Rochelle. 
Article author: Shnai Johnson
Rennes, France. Canal Vibes, Courtyard Drinks & a Sea Turtle Tattoo
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Rennes, France. Canal Vibes, Courtyard Drinks & a Sea Turtle Tattoo
Rennes, France. Where Canals Meet Creativity Leaving Rouen behind, I drove south toward Rennes which took around 4 hours. Rennes is a city I knew little about but felt instantly drawn to. Why? Because the moment I arrived, I could sense its creative pulse; the mix of art, energy, and ease that gives it character. I knew I’d be here for a week, and I couldn’t wait to see what lay beneath the surface.  The drive had been long but pulling up outside my Airbnb felt like a small victory. The flat was trendy; open-plan, filled with vinyls, plants, and art with a patio spilling with greenery, outdoor furniture and quirky fixtures. The canal was just around the corner, catching the last of the evening light.  Roly stretched out on the floor, tail thumping gently as if to say, we made it. I unpacked a few bits from the car, and watched the light fade through the tall windows. That sweet, still moment between arrival and adventure.  That night, I ordered Indian takeaway from Délice de India, very yummy and exactly what a travel day deserves. Saturday. Markets, Art & Ink Saturday morning began at Marché des Lices, Rennes’ famous weekend market lined with stalls overflowing with cheese, bread, flowers, and chatter. I wandered through with a coffee in hand, picking up local cheese and a bottle of red wine, before stopping for lunch at Crêperie au Marché des Lices. Here, crêpes are made with buckwheat flour, giving them that distinctive Brittany flavour, savoury, and perfect with cider. I ordered one with ham and melted cheese and sat in the patio sun surrounded by locals enjoying their weekend ritual. After lunch, Roly and I wandered along the Arsenal-Redon Canal, the kind of place where life just happens with cyclists and runners whizzing past, dogs chasing sticks, couples sharing wine on the grass. It reminded me of Hackney Wick back home in London. Creative, lived-in, and full of easy charm. Later that afternoon, I visited the La Criée Centre d’Art Contemporain, a small but striking exhibition space that captures Rennes’ creative heartbeat. Afterwards, I stopped at La Tête Enfarinée for baguettes and cakes, and picked up jambon and market goods from Marché Central to cook later.  A Turtle & A Twist As the sun dipped, the day took a spontaneous turn. I walked into Cœur d’Encre, a small tattoo studio filled with plants, vinyl, and warm light, and walked out with a sea turtle on my arm, a symbol of intuition, emotional depth, and the ability to navigate life’s challenges. And as if fate wanted to add a plot twist, Cédric, the Frenchman I met in Rouen, came to visit me in Rennes. He got a match tattoo, a small flame. Somehow, it felt poetic; two different symbols. Courtyard Drinks & Unplanned Conversations That evening, we went to La Piste, an open-air bar with a laid-back courtyard vibe. We ordered drinks and ended up joining two women from Brittany who invited us to their table. We spent hours chatting, laughing, and swapping stories, one of those spontaneous, unscripted nights that make travel feel effortlessly alive. Sunday. Seafood & Sunshine at Chez Brume Lunch at Chez Brume was perfection; a refined bistro with a sunny terrace serving seafood. I had a selection of their tasting dishes, followed by pavlova, and a glass of prosecco. As we ate, the Rennes Marathon passed by, a blur of runners, and clapping, turning lunch into a front-row seat to local life. After lunch, we wandered through the Sunday flea market called Les Puces de Rennes, a maze of vintage books, art, and antiques that spilled into the nearby streets. We ended the day with dinner at La Chope, where I had steak frites, a pafita roll, and an Aperol Spritz to close out the weekend perfectly. Monday. Canal Loops & Quiet Moments Monday morning began with a long canal walk. Roly trotted beside me while the city slowly stirred with runners, cyclists, and locals walking to work with coffee in hand.  In the afternoon, I wandered to Marché Central, picking up sausages, steak, and a baguette to cook at home, then spent the rest of the day working from the airbnb.  A working Monday but a deeply content one. You can read more in my guide Digital Nomad Life in France.  Tuesday. Canal Walks & Roly’s EU Passport On Tuesday, I drove to Vetovie Fougères vétérinaire in Rennes to get Roly’s EU pet passport, one of those important admin steps for anyone travelling long-term through Europe with a dog. The vet was fantastic, friendly, professional, and even English-speaking, which made everything simple. They registered Roly, carried out a routine health check, and issued his French (EU) passport on the spot. Total cost: around 60 euros for the check-up, registration, and the EU passport. The EU passport is a game-changer for pet travel. It replaces the need for constant vet visits and new health certificates at each border. With it, Roly can now travel freely between EU countries for the next year as long as his rabies vaccination stays valid. It’s one of those small but huge wins for life on the road, less paperwork, more adventure. You can read more in my Travelling to Europe with a Dog from the UK Guide. Dinner that night was at PHO ANH EM, a Vietnamese restaurant serving pho, noodles, and fresh rolls bursting with flavour.  Wednesday &Thursday. Work, Walks & Pancake Farewell Not every day on the road is about exploration, and that’s exactly what makes it real. Wednesday was spent working from the Airbnb, and Roly and I took our usual 45-minute walk along the Arsenal-Redon Canal in the afternoon. The sun was shining, the water shimmered, and the city moved with that charm that defines Rennes. That evening, I cooked the sirloin steak I’d picked up from the market earlier in the week, which was tender, and perfect with a glass of red wine. The next morning came with that bittersweet feeling of packing up and moving on. Leaving days are equal parts chaos and excitement. Before hitting the road, I stopped at Oh My Biche, a dog-friendly café that doubles as a co-working spot. I ordered pancakes with maple syrup, bacon, and scrambled eggs, and it absolutely hit the spot. It was the perfect send-off. Where to Eat & Drink Crêperie au Marché des Lices – Buckwheat crepes and local cider Oh My Biche – Dog-friendly café and co-working gem, and the best brunch in town Chez Brume – Refined yet relaxed bistro serving fresh seafood Pho Anh Em – Fragrant Vietnamese pho, noodles, and spring rolls  La Cavale – Cosy bistro with natural wines and modern French plates L’AOC – Seasonal, elevated French dishes using regional ingredients in a relaxed setting. Superkraft – Bistro-meets-bar with great coffee by day and creative cocktails by night. Origines Restaurant-Bar-Microbrasserie – Industrial-style eatery pairing craft beer with generous, flavourful dishes. Le Bacchus – Wine bar and bistro with live jazz, candlelight, and a romantic edge. Le Tournesol – Small, friendly wine bar perfect for easy evenings and good conversation. Why Rennes Stuck With Me Rennes has a spark that’s hard to define. What I loved most is how liveable it feels. You can walk almost everywhere, pick up a baguette and flowers from the market, stop for wine at a bar you didn’t plan to visit, and end the day by the canal with locals who feel more like neighbours.Rennes has character stitched into its daily life. It wasn’t the biggest city, the most dramatic, or the flashiest stop on my route, but it was the one that felt the most real; creative, social, and full of heart.  For city-by-city breakdowns and deeper regional planning, explore the full France Travel Guides. Now, it’s time for the next route. Next stop: Nantes.
Article author: Shnai Johnson
Rouen, France: Cathedrals, Cliffs & a French Kiss
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Rouen, France: Cathedrals, Cliffs & a French Kiss
The Arrival Rouen was never meant to be an eight-day stop but that’s the thing about the places that surprise you. They quietly convince you to stay longer. After the drive from Calais, I arrived to a city that looked like a painting with half-timbered houses, gothic spires, cobbled streets that curve just enough to make you wonder what’s around the corner. My Airbnb on Rue du Fardeau had everything a traveller dreams of: high ceilings, art-filled walls, colourful furnishings, and morning light pouring through tall windows. My car was tucked neatly away at the Opéra car park just five minutes away, and I had everything I needed; Roly, comfort, and a city waiting to be explored. If you’re travelling Europe long-term by car, Rouen is the kind of base that makes sense. A week in one place gives you space to breathe, explore, and still feel the pull of the road ahead. Why Rouen Works Rouen has an easy vibe. It’s historic but not stuck in the past, beautiful but lived in, romantic without trying too hard. It’s where Gothic cathedrals meet indie cafés, and history meets small daily pleasures. A warm croissant, a rain shower over cobblestones, a late-night glass of wine with live music in the background. It’s also a very dog-friendly city in France. Roly was welcomed everywhere in shops, restaurants, cafés usually with a smile and a water bowl. The Cafés & Morning Rituals Mornings began at Café Augustin, a minute from my apartment. It’s an eclectic little coffee spot with large windows perfect for people-watching. I'd also enjoy a dirty chai latte (my fav) at Columbus Café, which was also close by.  For other great café stops, Prélude Café and Bibelot, and are beautiful choices for coffee and brunch. Café Crème and Couleur Café bring that easy French café charm. History & Hidden Corners Rouen’s history runs deep. It’s where Joan of Arc met her fate, and where Monet painted the same cathedral façade over and over to capture its changing light. Walking through the city is like flipping between centuries Cathédrale Notre-Dame towers over the old town, all stone lace and shadow The Gros-Horloge, a golden clock suspended above a cobbled street, still ticks as it has for hundreds of years Rue Eau-de-Robec is one of Rouen’s prettiest streets, half-timbered houses, small canals, and vintage shops For art lovers, stop by Hangar 107 for modern exhibitions, or L’Établi for local contemporary pieces. And if you love vinyl or vintage, Aesthetic Circle Record Shop is worth a browse. Sunday in Rouen. Markets & Quiet Streets Sunday in France has its own tempo, calm, simple, almost sacred. In Rouen, that means the city slows to a whisper. Most shops and restaurants close completely on Sunday and Monday, and the few that open typically shut around 1:30 PM including the main Marché Saint-Marc. The food market itself is worth the early start with stalls piled with cheese, meats, fish, vegetables, fruits, and fresh bread. Locals chatting and dogs weaving through the crowd like regulars. It’s the perfect glimpse of everyday French life. By early afternoon, the city empties. Streets fall quiet, and the sound of church bells replaces traffic. It’s oddly soothing, a reminder to slow down too. That evening, I wandered through the old town and ended the day with a crepe and three gelato toppings from Amorino. Sweet, simple perfection. The Day Trip: Étretat Cliffs When the sun broke through later in the week, I decided to make the 1.5-hour drive from Rouen to Étretat, one of Normandy’s most breathtaking coastal towns. The route winds through fields and villages before the sea appears suddenly, framed by white chalk cliffs. I stopped first at La Flottille, a cosy dog-friendly restaurant a short walk from the beach. The smell of butter, garlic, and cream greets you instantly. I ordered mussels in cream sauce which were rich, delicate, and easily a 10/10. After lunch, Roly and I explored the cobbled beach, framed by breathtaking cliffs on both sides. Roly paddled in the sea while I watched the waves hit the rocks, sunlight turning everything gold. We climbed Falaise d’Aval as sunset hit, the kind of view that reminds you why you travel. Standing there, surrounded by cliffs and coves, with Roly beside me and the sea stretching endlessly ahead, everything felt right. A French Date & Live Music Somewhere between cathedral strolls and coastal hikes, I met Cédric. We met for a walk in the Botanical Gardens, which turned out not to be dog-friendly, but we made it work, walking and talking in a different area, and heading to the city in the evening for dinner at Zhoushi, fresh sushi and then Victorine Piano Bar across the road. Victorine is Rouen’s hidden gem, with a grand piano at the centre, cosy décor, and sophistication. I ordered a local Sauvignon white wine, he ordered red wine, and for a few hours, everything was just music and conversation. When we left, the cobbled streets were quiet, the cathedral glowing softly in the distance. And there, under the Rouen moon, we shared a kiss, one of those perfectly cinematic moments you can’t plan, only live. A night later, I returned to Victorine Piano Bar for live jazz, oysters, and champagne. The show was meant to be at its sister bar, Victorine Jazz Bar, but after flooding, it moved back here. It was another fun filled night.  The Food Scene Rouen’s food scene is surprisingly rich for its size. Highlights include: Navio - Modern French, where I had perfectly cooked medium-rare beef with caramelised vegetables. Hanoï Délice - Vietnamese comfort food perfect on a rainy day. Zhoushi - Fresh sushi made in front of you. La Pêcherie - Seafood lovers, take note. Listo - Ecuadorian dishes full of colour and flavour. Bân Thaï and Bambou - for a taste of Asia. Le Kitsch, Lé Là, and Tempo - modern French done beautifully. Amorino - Crepes and gelato piled high (mandatory). La Pasta Tinto - A welcoming Italian with gluten-free options and friendly staff.  Rouen has that lovely French habit of slowing you down with food. You sit, savour, and stay longer than you meant to. Nightlife & Local Spots For drinks, Le Charleston and L’Estaminet Bières & Cocktails are both fantastic, full of character and great music. Victorine Piano Bar and Victorine Jazz & Wine offer a more elegant vibe, while The Sound of the Horn is perfect for a laid-back glass. The Journey Onwards On my last morning, I checked out at 11am. One final look at the space that had been home for eight days. Before the long drive to Rennes, I stopped at La Pasta Tinto for lunch and ordered pasta with shellfish, and Roly was treated like a king with a full bowl of ham from the staff. The restaurant filled up quickly with locals, always the best sign. Following a good meal, a happy dog, and a full heart we were now ready to travel onwards to Rennes. Why Rouen Stayed With Me Rouen feels like a city in balance. History without heaviness. Charm without cliché. The kind of place that doesn’t demand attention but quietly captures it. It’s full of small joys, cafés with character, friendly faces, dogs at every table, and light that hits the cobblestones just right. This was my first chapter in my European road trip and I couldn’t have asked for a better beginning. For city-by-city breakdowns and deeper regional planning, explore the full France Travel Guides. Merci, Rouen. Now, it’s time for the next route. Next stop, Rennes.
Article author: Shnai Johnson
Small dog sitting in a car front seat during a London to France road trip
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London to Rouen: Our First Road Trip Stop (With Roly in the Front Seat)
Table of Contents From One Journey to the Next The Final Day in London: Packing Up a Chapter Why I Stayed in Folkestone Before the Eurotunnel Morning of the Crossing: Eurotunnel Pet Tips Inside the Eurotunnel: 35 Minutes to a New Chapter Driving in France: What to Expect Pit Stop Magic: Chocolate Briochette & Roly’s Stretch First Impressions of Rouen What I Learned on Day One of the Road Trip From One Journey to the Next After six months of exploring the UK from January to July 2025, from Cornwall’s beaches to Bristol’s art scene, I realised how much the flow of the open road suited me. Mornings without alarms. Days shaped by curiosity. The joy of Roly riding shotgun, ears flapping in the breeze. Somewhere between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, the idea of continuing the journey across Europe stopped feeling wild… and started feeling right. So when autumn arrived, I decided to go for it. This time: a little further afield, Europe and Africa. The Final Day in London: Packing Up a Chapter October 2nd, 2025, the day everything became real.  I spent the entire day packing up the last of my belongings, underestimating how long the “final bits” would actually take (classic). But by the end of it, everything was loaded into my Mini One, Roly was in tow, and my little car was officially transformed into a European travel pod. I took one last look at my London apartment, closed the door behind me, and exhaled. I didn’t know exactly what was ahead, just that it was time. Time to open a new chapter, even if the pages haven’t been written yet. As I drove away with Roly curled up beside me, his eyes full of curiosity, I felt the shift. And just like that, life on the road had officially begun. Why I Stayed in Folkestone Before the Eurotunnel Pro tip: If you’re doing a big move or long-distance road trip, take the pressure off. I drove to Folkestone the night before my Eurotunnel crossing and it was such a good call. The journey from London took around 2 hours and 45 minutes thanks to rush hour traffic, and by the time I arrived (around 9pm), I was starving. Pizza was the only thing on the to-do list. I stayed at the Burlington Hotel, BW Premier by Best Western which had a smooth check-in, friendly staff, and was dog-friendly.  Before heading to the Eurotunnel in the morning, I also made a quick stop at the M&S Simply Food at the nearby petrol station to stock up on snacks and groceries. After a long travel day, having something to eat when I arrived in Rouen without needing to hunt for a shop was a game-changer. Just scenic drives, dog-friendly stays, and a flexible lifestyle that made room for spontaneity. Morning of the Crossing: Eurotunnel Pet Tips Roly and I went for a short walk along the promenade in the rain. I couldn’t quite see France across the Channel, but I knew it was just out there waiting. We headed to the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle terminal early, and I highly recommend you do the same. Here’s the breakdown of the process: Main check-in Pet check-in (they scan your dog’s microchip + documents) UK passport control EU passport control Toilet/snack/fuel stop before boarding Give yourself 1.5+ hours, especially if you’re travelling with a dog. Everything runs efficiently, but it’s not a 10-minute job. Inside the Eurotunnel: 35 Minutes to a New Chapter Once waved through, I drove onto the shuttle train with car after car, neatly stacked like a real-life game of Tetris. It feels orderly. Industrial. Efficient. Once parked, I switched off the engine, handbrake on, and settled in. The train started moving with barely a jolt. No dramatic clunks or lurches, just a subtle hum. For 35 quiet minutes, we cruised beneath the Channel.  Before I knew it, we were slowing with arrival in Calais. I restarted the engine, and waited for the doors ahead to open. France was just moments away. You can also explore my guide Ferry to France from the UK (With a Car) if you're planning to travel to France by ferry.  Driving in France: What to Expect The moment you roll off the Eurotunnel in Calais, you’re practically on the motorway. Driving on the right wasn’t as daunting as I expected, it actually felt intuitive pretty quickly. The roads are smooth, and everything is in km/h, not miles per hour. The speed limit is 130km/h on the motorway, which is about 80mph (faster than the UK’s 70mph). Heads up: French motorways often have speed cameras. You’ll spot occasional warning signs or cameras mounted discreetly. Just something to be mindful of. I settled in for the 3-hour drive to Rouen, music on, Roly snoozing in the front. Pit Stop Magic: Chocolate Briochette & Roly’s Stretch About halfway into the drive, I needed a toilet. The thing is once you leave the motorway in France, you’re often in tiny, sleepy towns with not much open. By sheer luck, I found a gem: Boulangerie Victor in a village just outside Abbeville, called Nouvion-en-Ponthieu. It smelt like heaven, warm bread, pastries, that perfect bakery scent. I grabbed a chocolate briochette and asked the woman behind the counter to warm it up slightly. The chocolate started melting just enough… and wow, so delicious. I could’ve eaten ten. Toilet? ✔️ Snack? ✔️ Stretch break for Roly? ✔️ We were both happy. First Impressions of Rouen The final hour of the drive was smooth, and we arrived in Rouen around 6pm. The city was alive, people chatting over wine, walking dogs, shopping, laughing. That Friday night feeling was in the air. It felt vibrant, social, full of energy. I checked into my Airbnb and only brought in a few bits from the car, some clothes, essentials, dog food. No need to unpack everything when I’m only here for a week. Later that evening, I wandered the town just to soak it in. People dining indoors and outdoors, a man walking his dog, music and murmurs floating in the air. It felt good to be somewhere new. Out of London. In a fresh space. In motion. What I Learned on Day One of the Road Trip Take the pressure off by breaking up long journeys (Folkestone overnight was a game-changer) Stock up on groceries before you cross. Your future self will thank you Allow buffer time for border control and pet check-ins Stop at the bakery for a halfway stop and to stretch your legs Driving in France is easier than expected, especially on the motorways Speed cameras are around, drive relaxed but be mindful It’s okay not to know what comes next. Sometimes the road just opens up ahead of you For city-by-city breakdowns and deeper regional planning, explore our country travel guides.
Article author: Shnai Johnson